Rusty nuts are still better than no nuts or blue nuts.Righto brains trust @Drover @mikerezny @chartrock @DRW ive allready spoken with crustycon our next Premier of Vic
Now im 51 the van is 6 my nuts are rusty ahhhhh wheel nuts now i know some may struggle to see there nuts with roof over tool shed or glasses needed or never realy takeing notice of the condition of there nuts but ......
Now some nuts have a bulge some dont .... some need a hernina opp as mine do but my new nuts have no bulge my old ones do ......
So i fitted my new nuts which are ford nuts half inch thread ......
But i can see the seat in the alloy rim with new nuts but carnt with old nuts
The tayper is the same universal tayper on the nuts im told i didnt want to jayco nuts to rust out again but new ones may not be good enough without the bulge on the top of the tayper ??????????
Nothing worse than rusty nuts have others suffered from this ???? Have others changed there nuts ???? I was trying to get better nuts but may have to put inferior nuts back on
Can anyone help me with my nut problem.........see att pics of nuts View attachment 65854
If the flange (bevel) covers all the way out over the counter sink they should be OK.Rusty nuts are still better than no nuts or blue nuts.
More flange is also better than less flange. The question I cannot answer is if less flange is enough.
Seriously. If it was me, I would go to an electroplater and see if it is possible to have the old nuts rechromed. If done properly they should last a lot longer and will fit properly. Check if it will cost less if you do the preparation and ask them how to prepare them. I am not sure how to efficiently replace old chrome. But electroplaters probably do a lot of rechroming for people restoring old cars.
I have just asked a mate of mine in Melbourne who has restored a Jensen Interceptor and is a member of an auto club if he can recommend and electroplater.
There was one thing I didn't know I knew, everything, but you've cleared that upHey @Bluey you need to know if the taper on the new nuts fit the taper in the wheels you need to coat the taper on the nut with that blue stuff engineers use I can’t think of the name it’s a type of dye and then make sure it fits properly. Hard to explain call crustycon he’ll know he knows everything or talk to a fitter at work
If the flange (bevel) covers all the way out over the counter sink they should be OK.
Could ask a metal workshop for an opinion.
Don't forget to retorque the nuts after 100 Km. (torque wrench)
On Big Mal, 16" alloys the recommended is 120nm or 88.5 ftlbs, think Ford hubs, Cruiser stud pattern....... haven't broke a stud yet..... and the U bolts have 88nm about 65ftlbs....... I have written it on my torque wrench so I don't forget.... my Volvo truck with alloys only had 110ftlbs I think it was.
For the Colorado 140 Nm, and for my van 150 Nm. (21.65-4 OB)@Johnanbev I have a good torque wrench. What sort of torque are we talking about. A friend mentioned 120 ft/lb, but that seems very high for a van with alloy wheels. I think that on my Valiant, they advise only 55ft/lbs. Just had wheels off and will be travelling on Sunday so any good advice would be helpful.
While I have the makers torque data for my gear I looked around at the general info on the settings and its a " Oils aint OIl's Sol" sort of scenario, the values change around a bit for the same stud size and pattern and of course lots of people confuse Nm and ftlbs along with steel versus alloy rims.......................
So my research pointed to one main thing, read your manual, if doesn't state anything then you should check out the stud pattern, stud size and wheel size then visit your manufacturers web site for the torque setting, if no luck there, rim manufacturers often have listings but make sure you read it all, confusing Nm for ftlbs and steel for alloy can cause you problems, while they always advise to check your wheel nuts again after 100kms, they fail to mention with hot rims not to swing off the lugs like a gorilla, just a gentle bit of pressure to ensure no movement if using a bar , a big hard push or a foot on with long bar isn't good at all.
Of course my usual warning " Always check the wheel nuts before you hook up after a service whether the wheels were done or not "