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Bluey

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Mar 31, 2014
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Im haveing trouble uploading my nuts will keep trying i have more nut pics but haveing trouble posting never used to it goes to 100% but then wont take the next step and come on bugger whats wrong
 
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mikerezny

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Sep 11, 2016
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Mount Waverley, VIC
Righto brains trust @Drover @mikerezny @chartrock @DRW ive allready spoken with crustycon our next Premier of Vic
Now im 51 the van is 6 my nuts are rusty ahhhhh wheel nuts now i know some may struggle to see there nuts with roof over tool shed or glasses needed or never realy takeing notice of the condition of there nuts but ......
Now some nuts have a bulge some dont .... some need a hernina opp as mine do but my new nuts have no bulge my old ones do ......
So i fitted my new nuts which are ford nuts half inch thread ......
But i can see the seat in the alloy rim with new nuts but carnt with old nuts
The tayper is the same universal tayper on the nuts im told i didnt want to jayco nuts to rust out again but new ones may not be good enough without the bulge on the top of the tayper ??????????
Nothing worse than rusty nuts have others suffered from this ???? Have others changed there nuts ???? I was trying to get better nuts but may have to put inferior nuts back on
Can anyone help me with my nut problem.........see att pics of nuts View attachment 65854
Rusty nuts are still better than no nuts or blue nuts.

More flange is also better than less flange. The question I cannot answer is if less flange is enough.

Seriously. If it was me, I would go to an electroplater and see if it is possible to have the old nuts rechromed. If done properly they should last a lot longer and will fit properly. Check if it will cost less if you do the preparation and ask them how to prepare them. I am not sure how to efficiently replace old chrome. But electroplaters probably do a lot of rechroming for people restoring old cars.

I have just asked a mate of mine in Melbourne who has restored a Jensen Interceptor and is a member of an auto club if he can recommend and electroplater.

take care
Mike
 

Johnanbev

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Jul 7, 2013
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Sunbury VIC.
Rusty nuts are still better than no nuts or blue nuts.

More flange is also better than less flange. The question I cannot answer is if less flange is enough.

Seriously. If it was me, I would go to an electroplater and see if it is possible to have the old nuts rechromed. If done properly they should last a lot longer and will fit properly. Check if it will cost less if you do the preparation and ask them how to prepare them. I am not sure how to efficiently replace old chrome. But electroplaters probably do a lot of rechroming for people restoring old cars.

I have just asked a mate of mine in Melbourne who has restored a Jensen Interceptor and is a member of an auto club if he can recommend and electroplater.

take care
Mike
If the flange (bevel) covers all the way out over the counter sink they should be OK.
Could ask a metal workshop for an opinion.
Don't forget to retorque the nuts after 100 Km. (torque wrench)
 
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DRW

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May 29, 2013
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Beautiful Burrum Heads QLD
Hey @Bluey you need to know if the taper on the new nuts fit the taper in the wheels you need to coat the taper on the nut with that blue stuff engineers use I can’t think of the name it’s a type of dye and then make sure it fits properly. Hard to explain call crustycon he’ll know he knows everything or talk to a fitter at work
 
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Crusty181

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Feb 7, 2010
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Mentone, VIC
Hey @Bluey you need to know if the taper on the new nuts fit the taper in the wheels you need to coat the taper on the nut with that blue stuff engineers use I can’t think of the name it’s a type of dye and then make sure it fits properly. Hard to explain call crustycon he’ll know he knows everything or talk to a fitter at work
There was one thing I didn't know I knew, everything, but you've cleared that up ;)
 
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chartrock

Forum Patriarch
Staff member
Sep 26, 2010
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Hi @Bluey, the only nuts I have changed were on my tug, posted here. I didn’t buy original nuts but went to a tyre seller (Jax) and he had a set of 24 for around $75 as opposed to around $500 from Mazda. I think so long as the tapers match and the wheel flare is covered, you should be ok.
 
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Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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Its always advisable to take care of your nuts, dont use grease on them either...you can stain them, give 'em a buff and drop them in something which will stain, just cant remember the brew, do need a mate to help.... :biggrin-new: :biggrin-new: :biggrin-new:
 
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Boots in Action

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Mar 13, 2017
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Ferny Grove, Queensland
If the flange (bevel) covers all the way out over the counter sink they should be OK.
Could ask a metal workshop for an opinion.
Don't forget to retorque the nuts after 100 Km. (torque wrench)

@Johnanbev I have a good torque wrench. What sort of torque are we talking about. A friend mentioned 120 ft/lb, but that seems very high for a van with alloy wheels. I think that on my Valiant, they advise only 55ft/lbs. Just had wheels off and will be travelling on Sunday so any good advice would be helpful.
 

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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On Big Mal, 16" alloys the recommended is 120nm or 88.5 ftlbs, think Ford hubs, Cruiser stud pattern....... haven't broke a stud yet..... and the U bolts have 88nm about 65ftlbs....... I have written it on my torque wrench so I don't forget.... my Volvo truck with alloys only had 110ftlbs I think it was.
 

Boots in Action

Well-Known Member
Mar 13, 2017
2,054
1,806
113
Ferny Grove, Queensland
On Big Mal, 16" alloys the recommended is 120nm or 88.5 ftlbs, think Ford hubs, Cruiser stud pattern....... haven't broke a stud yet..... and the U bolts have 88nm about 65ftlbs....... I have written it on my torque wrench so I don't forget.... my Volvo truck with alloys only had 110ftlbs I think it was.

Thanks @Drover , I will go with 75ft/lb to start with and check again after 100 kms at first stop, and follow up again after a further 200kms. Sound reasonable? Not sure what sort of hubs on Penguin, but they are definitely 6 stud.