I had same issue. I replaced van plug with 7 pin round and put anderson plug on remaining 2 pins (for fridge) and put Anderson plug on car. Was worth the effort. If you look around the site you will find lots of info on options and how to's. You will also find people complaining about the factory 12 pin plugs melting as time goes on. - just my 2 cents
Toyota Aurion 1600Kg
- Thread starter nihonjin
- Start date
For what it's worth. I've still got the factory 12 pin plug on my van and a 12 pin on the car. I've had this setup for 6 years on 3 different vehicles without issue, using a VSR (voltage sensing relay). The fridge in the van being 3 way can run on gas/240v/12v. I always run it on 240v for a couple of days before we head off with everything already packed in it, run it on 12v through the 12pin plug whilst travelling, just to maintain it, then it either goes onto gas if free camping, or 240v in a caravan park.
It's never felt hot or melted the plug and it's one less connection to worry about between car and van.
My 2c.
It's never felt hot or melted the plug and it's one less connection to worry about between car and van.
My 2c.
The problem with 12 pin melt down is usually caused by a crappy connection, the pin is closed up or not in far enough which causes resistance which equals heat, I had one for years with out problems but after a vehicle change the weight of the lead pulling down on the plug caused it to move around and melted, no drama with an Anderson now but mine gets used a lot so gets a lot of wear and tear......I don't bother with fridge on 12 v not worth the hassle.
Again, for what it's worth.
We've done both and now getting ready to rejig again
Our expanda had the usual 12 pin plug and we had the 12 pin socket on car and everything was wired through that...ESC, brakes, lights, charging on the run, fridge etc. no problems except a bit of wear and tear.
We were seriously considering changing this but sold the van instead! Reason for the possible change was the option to disconnect the ESC on rough terrain without losing brakes etc etc and the 12 pin was looking a bit manky so it was only a matter of time before the duct tape holding it gave way.
Now, in our new setup, we're changing everything to 7 pin flat (but 7 pin round would be the same) red Anderson on van and car for ESC only, grey Anderson on van and car for brakes and fridge and the rest via the 7 pin flat.
That way we can disconnect ESC if needed and the Anderson on car can be used for portable solar panels to keep second car battery or the van battery charged if needed....we don't want extra solar and second battery in van but want the option to have access to car power if needed...and we hope we maximise the use of available power without the extra weight.
At least I hope so....and that's my 2cents worth.
We've done both and now getting ready to rejig again
Our expanda had the usual 12 pin plug and we had the 12 pin socket on car and everything was wired through that...ESC, brakes, lights, charging on the run, fridge etc. no problems except a bit of wear and tear.
We were seriously considering changing this but sold the van instead! Reason for the possible change was the option to disconnect the ESC on rough terrain without losing brakes etc etc and the 12 pin was looking a bit manky so it was only a matter of time before the duct tape holding it gave way.
Now, in our new setup, we're changing everything to 7 pin flat (but 7 pin round would be the same) red Anderson on van and car for ESC only, grey Anderson on van and car for brakes and fridge and the rest via the 7 pin flat.
That way we can disconnect ESC if needed and the Anderson on car can be used for portable solar panels to keep second car battery or the van battery charged if needed....we don't want extra solar and second battery in van but want the option to have access to car power if needed...and we hope we maximise the use of available power without the extra weight.
At least I hope so....and that's my 2cents worth.
Your such a tight a##se @Dobbie your views are worth at least 20 cents maybe even more
..................................I should also add a 7 pin is way cheaper than the 12 pin and if you buy Anderson plugs on ebay they are better priced......
Well so many different options that all seem ok. What complicates more is i dont know what is wired to the 12 pin. The owner wasn't sure. He did think it was wired to power the fridge. But im hoping it also has wiring direct to the battery so that if connected at the car it not only powers the fridge whilst driving but also charges the van battery. Is there an easy way to tell?
Multimeter?
Another thought. Do you have solar on roof of the van?
If so, there's no real need to charge the battery from the vehicle as you trundle along. The solar will do it for you.
The 12v charge to the fridge from the car is just enough to try to maintain the temp, not to bring it down but it's worth doing ....just let the gas or the 240v do the hard work.
You'll need some sort of cut out relay to protect the car battery as well but, no doubt, you've got this covered.
I'm up to 3cents worth.
Another thought. Do you have solar on roof of the van?
If so, there's no real need to charge the battery from the vehicle as you trundle along. The solar will do it for you.
The 12v charge to the fridge from the car is just enough to try to maintain the temp, not to bring it down but it's worth doing ....just let the gas or the 240v do the hard work.
You'll need some sort of cut out relay to protect the car battery as well but, no doubt, you've got this covered.
I'm up to 3cents worth.
no solar on the roof and i dont think i will bother with roof solar. Im happy to give the portable panels a go as usually when finding a nice camping spot I like to look for good shade so i have been thinking with the portable option i can at least move this so it is not in shade and getting the best possible amount of sun.
Im still not sure what direction ill take with the plugs so i welcome anyone else's thoughts or opinions.
thanks.
Im still not sure what direction ill take with the plugs so i welcome anyone else's thoughts or opinions.
thanks.
Agree with @Vere and @Dobbbie , but for the moment don't worry about it, if your blinkers and other lights work then all is good enough, if you run your fridge on 240 to cool it right down before you go the fridge will be okay.................if you run a direct line from battery to an anderson plug with a 35amp breaker in the line you can plug your solar panel into it and charge your battery when not on 240, just use big cable for it so you don't get any loss, you may want to make a longer cable for your panel if you like to hide under tree's, if you have a Jaycar shop nearby see them as they will make up cable's for you , give you advise and they don't seem to ripp you off.
Need to change that to 5cents (While available) @Dobbie ... Unless you still have some old copper coins for change
I take credit cards if it helps.....and there are group discounts available.
And a no return policy set by management so "please hold as your call is important to us"
(Sorry .....but spending far too much of my leisure time in a one way discussion with Telstra )
And a no return policy set by management so "please hold as your call is important to us"
(Sorry .....but spending far too much of my leisure time in a one way discussion with Telstra )
We have decided to keep with the ford factory 12 pin on the terry, though when I had the brake controller fitted I also had the auto elec run decent thickness power cables for the fridge with a redark isolator, and also the power cables needed for the esc. Hopefully we pick up our new expanda on saturday...
So i have decided to go with a 12 pin plug on the car (swap the existing 7 pin round) and still deciding if i get an anderson plug also installed at the same time on the car. At the moment there is no anderson plug on the van so i dont see much of an advantage of getting an anderson plug installed at this point in time.
I would like to get an anderson plug installed in the future so i can hook up some portable solar panels so I guess if I was to get an anderson installed now on the car then whenever i get one on the car i can hook them up so the van battery is also charging whilst driving.
I would like to get an anderson plug installed in the future so i can hook up some portable solar panels so I guess if I was to get an anderson installed now on the car then whenever i get one on the car i can hook them up so the van battery is also charging whilst driving.
Well if you have the 12 pin wired up as it's supposed to be by Jayco then not only will your fridge run whilst you drive down the road, so long as you turn your fridge to 12v you will also find the van batteries will get a trickle charge also via the setek.
Wow I wasn't taking much notice of this thread as it was about a Toyota Aution tow car! But it's been interesting reading.
no-one ever said we dont go off topic once in awhile......................
but you are correct @Rockape sort of.....................................
I know it was done by Jayco and it would be good to know for sure if in fact the 12 pin plug is wired up so that both the fridge and the van battery receives charge when connected to the car. If this was the case then i would only get the 12 pin wired up on the car and not worry about an anderson plug on the car and rather get an anderson plug put on the van for future solar panels.
Is there an easy wall to tell if the way the 12 pin is wired provided both power to the fridge and also trickle charge to the van battery?
Thanks.
Best way is to have a multi meter, with plug wiring diagram test each terminal to see that they match, do same for van, now to do it on the van, plug it into car but remove cover on van socket and test terminals, noting colour of wire matches the plug terminal number, with meter, test 12v wires at back of fridge (remove lower vent) (black is postive, white is negative on Jayco wiring but fridge wires will be red pos and black neg )
and for power to van well thats easy, with van still plugged into car turn battery in van off and then turn a light on, if light doesn't come on then something is wrong.
The power to van wire goes to a birds nest of wires under van and split feeds to fridge and Setek which in turn will charge your battery (so long as battery is turned on) the Setek will not power the fridge as the fridge is isolated from the van 12v supply, running it from a battery which isn't getting a constant high flow charge will flatten the battery in 30 mins thats why you must always disconnect when you stop the engine unless you have a isolation device fitted to your 12v supply from car.
So simply to check if you 12v supply to van is working, turn battery off and a light on, light works all is good.
and for power to van well thats easy, with van still plugged into car turn battery in van off and then turn a light on, if light doesn't come on then something is wrong.
The power to van wire goes to a birds nest of wires under van and split feeds to fridge and Setek which in turn will charge your battery (so long as battery is turned on) the Setek will not power the fridge as the fridge is isolated from the van 12v supply, running it from a battery which isn't getting a constant high flow charge will flatten the battery in 30 mins thats why you must always disconnect when you stop the engine unless you have a isolation device fitted to your 12v supply from car.
So simply to check if you 12v supply to van is working, turn battery off and a light on, light works all is good.