Electrical LED Strip Awning Barrel light install.

BigSkiddy

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May 7, 2013
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There's a link for the cable in the first post. Bunnings has a black and white speaker wire that is the same.
 

Marv_mart

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Great, thanks. Just bought a roll.
Will try your method to get the wire thru the seam. Will post for others if I think of a better way, haha.
Will put wire along the other seam as well to make sure the awning roller winds up evenly.
 

Marv_mart

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Just looking at the pics, would using a long bit of brush cutter cord do the job as a cable pull thru ????
That is a great idea. Will try it out next WE. Getting van from storage for annual checkup so will have it home for a few days to fit wine bottle storage and replace my external wire with seam wire that should arrive Mon - Wed.
 

BigSkiddy

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Just looking at the pics, would using a long bit of brush cutter cord do the job as a cable pull thru ????

You probably could try that.

The main reason I used the single wire first was as to not damage the dual wire that will carry the power, as you do a bit of bending as you go in and out of the seam. Last thing you want is the wire to have a break in it.
You could still use the dual wire first, pull it through the section that has been bent around and then just use that piece in the dummy side.
 

Drover

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I would try to give it a rounded end, try a file or even a quick hit with a cig lighter and wet finger to smooth the end maybe, nothing worse than the stuff getting caught half way thru, I remember trying to thread the cord thru my jammies as a young kid, proper pain.................not a problem now though, probably not pretty either....lol,lol.
 
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Frank

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Can you tell me if you had any issue with your wireless dimmer. I installed one exactly the same last weekend, switched on the lights and the dimmer did not work, it got incredibly hot so shut it all down. The wires were connected correctly so not quite sure what has happened to it. Just be very careful with these when using them is all I would say.
 

Marv_mart

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I use a different wireless remote and it works fine. See my thread for type I used on the awning.
Doesn't dim but remote on/off works flawlessly.
Connected up an inline switch dimmer, this works fine
image.jpg
Also have wireless dimmer remote on/off as described above but not connected to LED strip yet.
Will wait and see what happens with thread
 

BigSkiddy

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Can you tell me if you had any issue with your wireless dimmer. I installed one exactly the same last weekend, switched on the lights and the dimmer did not work, it got incredibly hot so shut it all down. The wires were connected correctly so not quite sure what has happened to it. Just be very careful with these when using them is all I would say.

Make sure you have it around the right way. One end is marked for input (5-24v) and the other for output (LED).
 

benandjordansmum

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Feb 8, 2012
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Thanks everyone for all the tips. We did ours yesterday!! We tried threading with a thicker wire first but wasn't having much success. The wipper snipper cord worked fantastically. The only problem we had is the other side of the awning seam would not take a dummy wire due to the eyelets for the annex and a seam that runs across the full length of the annex. We did try to not use it but it would roll nicely until right at the end and the awning would become loose. We fed the wipper snipper chord down as far as it would go and also fed up from the other way to meet it. Worked perfectly and the awning rolled up nicely.
image.jpg


We had some difficulty with getting the wiring under the pop top vinyl and into the van, so we heated a nail up and melted a small hole in the vinyl up under the pop top lid. We melted the vinyl so it wouldn't continue to tear. I am not worried about water getting in that high, but sealed it with a bit of clear sikaflex.

We didn't have the track to put the LEDs in, but just drew a line and affixed with the double sided tape that was on the lights. We did buy sikaflex with the adhesive to use to glue the LEDs on but thought we would give the double sided tape a go first.


We r very happy with the end result!! I also used Velcro to attach the remote next to the light switch as you walk in the door.
 

Marv_mart

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Jan 3, 2014
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View attachment 26467 View attachment 26466 View attachment 26465 View attachment 26463Thanks everyone for all the tips. We did ours yesterday!! We tried threading with a thicker wire first but wasn't having much success. The wipper snipper cord worked fantastically. The only problem we had is the other side of the awning seam would not take a dummy wire due to the eyelets for the annex and a seam that runs across the full length of the annex. We did try to not use it but it would roll nicely until right at the end and the awning would become loose. We fed the wipper snipper chord down as far as it would go and also fed up from the other way to meet it. Worked perfectly and the awning rolled up nicely.
View attachment 26463

We had some difficulty with getting the wiring under the pop top vinyl and into the van, so we heated a nail up and melted a small hole in the vinyl up under the pop top lid. We melted the vinyl so it wouldn't continue to tear. I am not worried about water getting in that high, but sealed it with a bit of clear sikaflex.

We didn't have the track to put the LEDs in, but just drew a line and affixed with the double sided tape that was on the lights. We did buy sikaflex with the adhesive to use to glue the LEDs on but thought we would give the double sided tape a go first..
You definitely have a much wider seam than I have. Mine is only about 5mm wide. Tried pushing the edge trimmer nylon up the seam but couldn't get it further than about 300mm. Have decided to stick with what I have done.

image.jpg image.jpg
 
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Seanm5253

Active Member
Dec 21, 2014
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Here's one way to install an LED Strip light on your Carefree awning.
Firstly check that the barrel of your awning has an 8mm recess for the strip light to go in.


Parts

- 3528 SMD LED strip light, my preference is Warm White (Don't use 5050, it is too wide to fit the recess)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/331264385869?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

- Wireless Remote/Dimmer
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251616252611?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

- 10m electric cable (get the thinnest possible) (attach link)
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291082051025?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


You want to run the wire down the seam of the awning, this is really tedious.
Using just some single core wire, preferably something that is stiff but small enough to fit through the gap in the stitching. Push this through as far as you can, you might only get 40-50cm before it jams, no problem. Just poke the end of the wire out of the seam and pull about 50cm out and then re insert the wire end back in and continue on. When it jams again pull it back out of the seam and pull it all through again. Keep doing this until you've got it running right through.
View attachment 25572
View attachment 25573
Now attach your actual cable to the end of the wire you just fed through and pull the cable back through the seam. Leave about an extra 50cm either end of the awning to play with for connecting.

Do the same for the other side of the awning (side which power will not be run through) This needs to be done so the awning will roll up evenly.

Drill a hole in the roof end to allow the cable to go through. I put the cable in some fuel line to prevent rubbing on the metal.
View attachment 25571

Now to get power, I tapped into the rangehood. It was easy enough, just unscrew all the screws you can see and remove the cover in which the lights are attached, then remove further screws to take out the whole unit which will then allow access to the incoming power. (Sorry didn't get a pic of this - straight forward though)

I drilled a small hole to allow the cable to come out and then run that cable in the lower 'poptop' section. View attachment 25570

View attachment 25575
Then to get the cable outside I just pulled the poptop material out of the channel at the top and got the wire through. I'm not sure if over time whether this will rub through the wire. Other option is to bring the cable through the zipper stitching of the window.
View attachment 25578

View attachment 25577


Next is to wire in the remote sensor. Simply connect the wire that you just ran from inside to the unit and then to the wire in the awning seam. It tucks up nicely in the roof. Secure it with a dob of Sikaflex/bluetack/chewing gum.
View attachment 25579
View attachment 25576

Lastly putting the lights in the recess channel is straight forward. Put them in first before removing the backing tape then cut to length. Make sure you cut it at the coppertabs.View attachment 25574

In connecting the cable I have done a dodgy non permanent approach by taping the wires down however I think I will drill to holes in the barrel (Pink spots). One for the wire to feed into and another in the recess. I want to check how the factory ones are done before I do this, will update if I do.
View attachment 25568

Finished!
View attachment 25580
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Big thanks to @Marv_mart who gave me some tips and inspiration.


The remote works great has about 20 metres range, allows you to dim right down and has flashing modes if you feel like having a rave party under your awning.
View attachment 25581

Any questions or further explanation, just ask.:D

Hi BigSkiddy
What did you use for a rubber bung when you drilled through your van wall ???
going to do this mod too!
Cheers
 

BigSkiddy

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May 7, 2013
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Hi BigSkiddy
What did you use for a rubber bung when you drilled through your van wall ???
going to do this mod too!
Cheers
It was a piece of rubber fuel line. You could use a some 4mm irrigation tube. Drill the hole at 3.5mm.

Alternatively you could drill a hole and surround the wire with silicon or sikaflex. It was done to prevent the wire rubbing but to be honest I don't think there is a lot of movement there anyhow.
Happy modding!
 
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Seanm5253

Active Member
Dec 21, 2014
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It was a piece of rubber fuel line. You could use a some 4mm irrigation tube. Drill the hole at 3.5mm.

Alternatively you could drill a hole and surround the wire with silicon or sikaflex. It was done to prevent the wire rubbing but to be honest I don't think there is a lot of movement there anyhow.
Happy modding!
Cheers
Was thinking more for waterproofing than movement