HI @G Daddy, is that a unit where the clamp can be placed around the wires to measure current without cutting into the wire?
Thanks
MR
Thanks
MR
Can you try posting your photo's in the thread @aspiremr , posting in the media section is a pain......
I think once you get thru all this testing stuff and if you rewire the batteries properly you will find you will have ample power, especially as many have the same draw as you with half the solar with no problems and using the Setek charger, it was just stuffed up battery wiring thats caused you grief.
I think once you get thru all this testing stuff and if you rewire the batteries properly you will find you will have ample power, especially as many have the same draw as you with half the solar with no problems and using the Setek charger, it was just stuffed up battery wiring thats caused you grief.
Hi @Drover ,
Re the photo posting, i tried to do it that way but couldn't figure out how. Really happy to do it whichever way is best and easiest. How do you post it direct to the thread?
I will get the battery re-wired in the next couple of weekends, and then see how the batteries handle the load. I'll also test the solar, as if there is any problem there then the batteries aren't getting any re-charge when out.
I'm also going to cycle the batteries with the load and properly re-charge with my Ctrek charger a few times prior to re-installing.
Will let you all know how I go as and when I get the re-wiring done.
Thanks
MR
Hi @aspiremr,
when you reply, you will see an "upload a File" button next to the "Post Reply" button, to the bottom right of screen.
Pressing that will open up a window to your file system. Select a file,
then you will see the file being downloaded. Then a small thumbnail of the file you downloaded. Then press the "full image" button to add it to your post. If you make a mistake, there is a delete button over to the right.
I hope this helps.
cheers
Mike
Thanks @mikerezny , that's a much better way of doing it. Wish I'd figured that out myself earlier. I clicked on the photo icon, and from there you end up down the rabbit hole of "media" files..
MR
Hi @G Daddy , thanks for the tip. That appears to be a good meter and saves having to put my ordinary meter in series with load line. You have talked me into buying one, but being under the control of the "Financial Controller" had to look further afield. Did so and found same meter for AU$44.95 with free postage from Hong Kong. Only pity is I have to wait about 2 weeks before I can get my hands on it. Small penalty to pay for getting what one really can use to advantage!! Will be handy in checking current from solar panels independently from what MPPT controller says. More testing to be done!! Thanks for the referral again.
THanks @G Daddy , one on order. Appreciate the pointer.
Have read that the clamp current meter only works on single cable, dual cable means the current one way Cancel's out the current the other way - have I understood that correctly?
You are correct, the other tip I picked on is the meter defaults to AC when turned ON, so you need to change to DC range or you get a incorrect reading
Hi Guys,
I've cycled the batteries a couple of times and Battery A does not get more than 7.5 to 8 hours, so it's cactus.
Don't want to replace only one, as when I replace them I will go to AGM, so will persever with the good one and the bad one as long as I can.
Started re-cabling the batteries today, will finish next weekend once I buy some extra thick cable and clamps. Relatively speaking an easy job. Disconnected the parallel negative connection from the shunt, will cable with heavy duty cable terminal to terminal next weekend. Will also shift the load cables so one is off Battery A and one is off Battery B. And pout heavy duty cable between positive termainals at same time, and remove the fuse form that line.
I have a question at the same time as I am re-cabling though. Thought I could attack this simultaneously.
If I want to add an Anderson plug so I can attach a portable solar panel to give some extra boost when van is shaded, is there anything special I need to do. Or is it simply a matter of one cable to battery A positive, once cable to Battery B negative (or vice versa to match load and other solar cables), with an anderson plug at the connection for both cables. And If I make this long enough, then I can just roll it out from the side storage compartment that the batteries are in and plug a portable solar panel straight into it?
And is it correct that as long as the portable solar panel has a built in regulator there is no worries having this charge the batteries directly like this even though the other charging sources are connected at the same time.
Or is there a bit more to it than that?
Reason I ask now is if it is as simple as I described I will buy the extra cable and clamps at same time as I buy cable to parallel batteries properly.
ThanksMR
I've cycled the batteries a couple of times and Battery A does not get more than 7.5 to 8 hours, so it's cactus.
Don't want to replace only one, as when I replace them I will go to AGM, so will persever with the good one and the bad one as long as I can.
Started re-cabling the batteries today, will finish next weekend once I buy some extra thick cable and clamps. Relatively speaking an easy job. Disconnected the parallel negative connection from the shunt, will cable with heavy duty cable terminal to terminal next weekend. Will also shift the load cables so one is off Battery A and one is off Battery B. And pout heavy duty cable between positive termainals at same time, and remove the fuse form that line.
I have a question at the same time as I am re-cabling though. Thought I could attack this simultaneously.
If I want to add an Anderson plug so I can attach a portable solar panel to give some extra boost when van is shaded, is there anything special I need to do. Or is it simply a matter of one cable to battery A positive, once cable to Battery B negative (or vice versa to match load and other solar cables), with an anderson plug at the connection for both cables. And If I make this long enough, then I can just roll it out from the side storage compartment that the batteries are in and plug a portable solar panel straight into it?
And is it correct that as long as the portable solar panel has a built in regulator there is no worries having this charge the batteries directly like this even though the other charging sources are connected at the same time.
Or is there a bit more to it than that?
Reason I ask now is if it is as simple as I described I will buy the extra cable and clamps at same time as I buy cable to parallel batteries properly.
ThanksMR
What you need is 8 B&S cable to use for connecting the batteries and running to an external Anderson, the external anderson should be connected POS to the terminal that all your other POS cables are connected to ( fit an inline 30amp fuse ) and the NEG should be connected to the terminal that you have the shunt connected to but connect it direct to the terminal, don't worry about running it thru the shunt, this way you can use it as a line In or a line Out to run a compressor or something...................Portable panel with it's own controller is the only way to go, without it it's not really portable.
You need to look at the 2 batteries as being only One battery with only one POS and one NEG that you connect to, if you start hooking up to the others you wreck the whole system. ( as I said before you should have a POS on one battery with only one lead off it and a NEG on the other battery with one lead off it, anything else is not optimal and could just stuff it all up)
I buy my cable 8 B&S in 10mt ($55) lengths, aussie cable off an Ebay supplier, also buy my andersons in lots of 20 at about $1 each . 8 B&S is the ideal size for making up extension leads for panels and any long high draw power runs.
Run the batteries in the real world and see how you go, you might be surprised how well it all holds when it's all hooked up.
You need to look at the 2 batteries as being only One battery with only one POS and one NEG that you connect to, if you start hooking up to the others you wreck the whole system. ( as I said before you should have a POS on one battery with only one lead off it and a NEG on the other battery with one lead off it, anything else is not optimal and could just stuff it all up)
I buy my cable 8 B&S in 10mt ($55) lengths, aussie cable off an Ebay supplier, also buy my andersons in lots of 20 at about $1 each . 8 B&S is the ideal size for making up extension leads for panels and any long high draw power runs.
Run the batteries in the real world and see how you go, you might be surprised how well it all holds when it's all hooked up.
Hi @aspiremr,
basically, it is as simple as you describe to add a lead to go to a portable solar panel, or to also use it as a 12V external source for running something. Here are my suggestions:
1: the -ve wire should go to the shunt and not the -ve terminal of the battery. This is so the drifter panel will show the current going in from the portable solar panel OR the current going out to any load you connect.
2: the +ve wire should go via an inline fuse to the +ve terminal of the battery (where all the other +ve wires are going)
Fortunately, from rewiring the batteries in parallel, you will have an inline fuse complete with a battery terminal on one side and a connector on the other side. This will be perfect for the task.
3: Ideally, the solar controller for the portable panel should be close to the battery. I would suggest running a lead from the battery to an Anderson plug near to the access point. Then, an Anderson on a short lead to the battery side of the solar controller. Then a lead from the controller out to your panel.
4: If you are considering a substantial portable panel, you will have to consider carefully the size of cable to ensure you don't have to much voltage drop. The longer the cable, the more radius you have to move the panel to pick up the sun, but the thicker the cable will need to be. I would aim to have no more than a 1V drop across the cable at the maximum current the portable panel can deliver.
One point, the current capacity of cable you are buying is not an indication of its actual suitability for its task. It is a maximum capacity that it will safely carry without damaging the cable. In 12V wiring such as we are considering here, a 15A rated cable will safely carry 15A but may well have too much voltage drop for efficiency, especially over 5m or more.
40% (8 hours) for battery A is not the best!. Hopefully you will get 12-13 hours out of Battery B.
If so, that is 21 hours at 5A. But your load is probably less than half of this in winter, so they may well last 48 hours with some help from the solar panels.
cheers
Mike
Thanks Gents,
@mikerezny , if the negative cable is going to the shunt, should it be the load side of the shunt ( i think so), or the terminal side of the shunt?
Thanks
MR
THanks @Drover , I'll cross my fingers re the batteries in teh real world.
I'm going to take the thicker cable that was on my batteries in to a electrical supply shop and see what thickness it is.
I think this thickness cable is probably only needed for connecting the batteries in parallel. But I am interested, how do I tell what the thickness of the cable Jayco has already used is? Is there a simple way to tell or do you need a specific measuring tool to know what thickness a cable is?
Also, silly question - what does B&S stand for?
Thanks
MR
Hi @aspiremr , seeing as everyone else has put in their "two cent's" worth, I thought I might as well put in my "one cent's" worth. If you go for separate solar panel and it has a MPPT controller, will this conflict with the existing controller which I understand is a PWM type??? Others on this forum will probably be able to help here. IMHO, if you are going to upgrade your charging system, I think it would be better to have one good MPPT controller and have both panels routed through this one controller. It will be better in the long run, even if it costs a bit more. HOWEVER, you may then have to work out how the panels are connected together as you probably have dissimilar type panels (voltage or output) to contend with. I have been testing this out over the last couple of weeks and receiving extremely valuable information from @G Daddy , @Bellbirdweb and @mikerezny. Something to think about - maybe down the track sometime??? See "solar thread" for what has been happening. Going away again to same place on 20th August and will do more "in depth" testing and data work whilst away. Lots of good direction from others in response to your other questions.
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Hi @aspiremr,
yes, you are correct, the load side of the shunt. Anything connected to the battery terminal side of the shunt will not go through the shunt and thus that current will not be measured and subsequently displayed on the drifter panel.
cheers
Mike
Hi @aspiremr,
both Jaycar and Altronics have cable that will be suitable for what you need. This is where have bought all my cable. (Oops with the exception of Road Tech Marine, which is related to Jaycar).
They both usually give out free catalogs which are well worth having. Browsing through these catalogs is way easier than trying to get information from their respective websites.
My Road Tech Marine catalog has a nifty chart relating size of cable to voltage drop. When I get time I will take a photo and post it here.
B&S and AWG (American Wire Guage) are standards for describing electrical cable. They are equivalent.
Here is an interesting site from RedArc explaining this and also which points to a calculator. I haven't used this calculator.
https://www.redarc.com.au/images/uploads/files/wire_gauge_worksheet.pdf
An electrical supply shop usually has only 240V cable, and / or only sell it in 100M rolls.
cheers
Mike
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10m-METE...C-DC-/291767118030?hash=item43eeace8ce&_uhb=1
Above is the place I buy cable from............................
You don't want to route a fixed panel and a portable thru the one controller @Boots in Action then you cannot use the poratable anywhere else and the anderson plug can only be used for that panel, seperate controllers means you have some versatility and if the anderson is direct to battery it be used to run a compressor, the drifter doesn't matter, who wants to sit and look at a stupid meter all day plus dragging a load like a compresssor thru a shunt means more resisitance.
@aspiremr if you Google B&S cable you will get answers, I'd just get the batteries hooked up first and worry about the rest later on and that includes testing all the other stuff and swapping controllers, they probably all work quite well, one step at a time.
Above is the place I buy cable from............................
You don't want to route a fixed panel and a portable thru the one controller @Boots in Action then you cannot use the poratable anywhere else and the anderson plug can only be used for that panel, seperate controllers means you have some versatility and if the anderson is direct to battery it be used to run a compressor, the drifter doesn't matter, who wants to sit and look at a stupid meter all day plus dragging a load like a compresssor thru a shunt means more resisitance.
@aspiremr if you Google B&S cable you will get answers, I'd just get the batteries hooked up first and worry about the rest later on and that includes testing all the other stuff and swapping controllers, they probably all work quite well, one step at a time.