Chassis WDH convert! WDH / anti sway / anti bounce kit for 22 starcraft

[Smergen]

Well, I've just taken delivery of an Andersen WDH on Friday, primarily on the basis of discussion through this forum with @Base23 and other positive reviews online. Due to the strengthening bar on the Gecko's chassis, we've had to get extensions to the chains provided by the distributor down here so that the brackets will fit further down the A Frame.

Hoping to have a go at installing it during the week but pretty time poor at the moment so it's likely to be next week at the earliest.

Still pretty excited to have it and it's one quality piece of kit.

One question to existing owners, from early indications it looks like my handbrake wire will rub across the bracket. Do others find this or is it something only relevant to the New Age set up?

 

[Jamcor]

Yeah i had to legnthen chains aswell make sure u use the correct hammerlocks to do this my hand brake cables clear only drama i have is the chains run where the jockey wherl goes

 

[Smergen]

Yeah i had to legnthen chains aswell make sure u use the correct hammerlocks to do this my hand brake cables clear only drama i have is the chains run where the jockey wherl goes

Yep, got the rated chain and hammerlocks provided by local seller in consultation with the Australian distributor. All happy and above board.

Our jockey wheel is centre mounted, so no issue there, but the brake cable definitely rubs. Just trying to think of a solution to get the cable around the bracket.

 

[Jamcor]

Any pics someone might have an idea

 

[Smergen]

Any pics someone might have an idea

Will try and get one later.

 

[Smergen]

OK... so got a couple of pics of the bracket in the approximate location. where it'll need to be to slot the bottom bolt on the bottom of the chassis.

You can see the brake cable rubbing so I'm thinking I need some sort of spacer for the cable to run around it.

Thoughts?

 

[chartrock]

G'day @Smergen, could you put a large spacer followed by a small washer and another large washer under a nut on that threaded bolt and use that as a guide to keep it off the hanger? :eagerness:

 

[Smergen]

I like that idea @chartrock, bit of a sacrificial washer so too speak.In the end, it should only be light rubbing at worst. When the cable is taught, the van won't be moving and when in motion the cable should have some flex so shouldn't be too detrimental. Will look at that solution though mate...

 

[dagree]

A few thoughts @Smergen ...

1) Pack between the drawbar and inner bracket at the bolts and feed the cable between the two... Or was that what you meant @chartrock ?

2) Bolt or glue a thin bit of flat neoprene/plastic on inner face of bracket for the cable to rub on.... Cable on plastic would be better than cable on metal!

3) If possible re-route the cable under the drawbar utilising chain links attached underneath as guides (If that makes sense? My last boat trailer had a similar setup)

 

[bigcol]

2) Bolt or glue a thin bit of flat neoprene/plastic on inner face of bracket for the cable to rub on.... Cable on plastic would be better than cable on metal!

I was going to suggest this

either putting a piece of "chopping board" cut with holes for bolts on the outside edge, and have the cable run on that

or

make 2 spacers out of the "chopping board" and put them under the bracket, with the cable running through the middle

 

[Smergen]

either putting a piece of "chopping board" cut with holes for bolts on the outside edge, and have the cable run on that

Was wondering how I could "coat" the bracket to do that and I reckon your idea is pretty good. Just get a cheap board, drill a few holes for the bolts to pass through and simply bolt on when attaching the bracket.

Not a fan of spacing the bracket away from drawbar (sorry if I misread your post @chartrock) as I want them sitting flush and creating the neccessary "grip" as designed. Don't particularly want to reroute the cable either if possible.

Perhaps a long piece of plastic garden/irrigation hose around the cable as it passes over the bracket could work.

A bit of trial and error methinks. Appreciate all the thoughts and feedback.

 

[Doc]

Sliding a piece of black polyethylene irrigation hose over the brake cable will work. That type of plastic has a very low surface energy rating, and will basically "self lubricate".

 

[Bluey]

@Smergen probly dosnt help you but heres a pic a pic of what reese dose or its what mine look like

 

[Drover]

I'd go with bigcol's chopping board chaff plate or docs the bit of hose, have used both methods and both work well, if you go the hose, the water line hose on the van works great but use a bit longer than needed and use big heat shrink at either end to hold it in place, worse bit is disconnecting the cable from the brake, helpfull hint is to use a bit of heat shrink over the cable end, about 50mm before you disconnect, that way it won't unravel.............

 

[megcam]

Maybe just split a length of poly pipe so you can fit it without the problems @Drover talks about in disconnecting brake cable. retain it on the bolt with something like

 

[Gilmorehappy]

Yeah i had to legnthen chains aswell make sure u use the correct hammerlocks to do this my hand brake cables clear only drama i have is the chains run where the jockey wherl goes

If you have the side mount jockey wheel, and the chain clashes with it, simply swap the bracket that takes the chain assembly to the inside position instead, and problem neatly solved. Still complies with the manufacturers' parameter diagramme in the manual according to my interpretation.

 

[Base23]

If you have the side mount jockey wheel, and the chain clashes with it, simply swap the bracket that takes the chain assembly to the inside position instead, and problem neatly solved. Still complies with the manufacturers' parameter diagramme in the manual according to my interpretation.

This is what I have done and now jockey wheel dose not interfere with WDH chains anymore.

As for the hand brake cable rubbing on the bracket I do not have the problem. Some great ideas have been suggested.
Smergen what was your fix in the end.

 

[Smergen]

Smergen what was your fix in the end.

Not put it on.

Believe it or not, haven't gotten around to putting it on. I mean, I could have but it would mean hooking it up and towing it somewhere flat (our slab isn't quiet level) and where I can line the car up straight which I can't do either.

After Xmas trips and January trips, it tows well without it and I don't feel I have to put it on. So there's not the rush. But will do it soon enough and see how it goes.

But for the wire solution it will be the irrigation hose and cable ties/hose clamp solution. Easy and effective.

 

[pauljygrant]

Question for the small but growing group using the Andersen hitch - is it possible to set it up to give away control without tightening the chains too much since I don't need that much WDH effect and want to keep stresses on the Navara to a minimum given Nissan doesn't recommend a WDH in the first place.

 

[Base23]

Question for the small but growing group using the Andersen hitch - is it possible to set it up to give away control without tightening the chains too much since I don't need that much WDH effect and want to keep stresses on the Navara to a minimum given Nissan doesn't recommend a WDH in the first place.

Guessing you mean Sway control?
You can have the chains tight or just nipped up and you will still have sway control, The sway control is done through the cone in the ball mount, as long as you connect the chains the sway control will work.