Electrical Setec cover removal.

mikerezny

Well-Known Member
Sep 11, 2016
1,270
2,082
113
67
Mount Waverley, VIC
#41
@mikerezny and @turbopsi , as per your original picture, it is a ST20 Series II. Only 5 fused outlets and only one LED warning light. No separate battery switch.
Hi @Boots in Action,
I know @turbopsi has a series II, but in his last post he was actually quoting from the series III manual.
He understood the need to fit a battery switch between the Setec and the battery to switch the battery on and off. This is needed on a series II.

In a series III, the battery is wired directly to the Setec. No battery switch in that path.
The battery is connected and disconnected within the Setec and controlled via a simple switch.
One consequence of this is when this battery switch is on, the Setec charges the battery normally.
However, when the switch is off, it disconnects the battery form the loads BUT still enable the battery to be trickle charged at up to 0.8A.

@turbopsi correctly spotted the issue: If, in his case, he wired a Setec series II correctly with a battery switch between the battery and the Setec, how could the Setec possibly supply a trickle charge to the battery when the switch was in the off position? Of course if can't.

Here are the block diagrams of the Series II followed by the Series III:

take care
Mike

ST-II Block Diagram.jpg
ST-III Block Diagram.png
 
Last edited:
Mar 22, 2016
53
16
8
43
Melbourne, Australia
#42
Hi @Boots in Action,
I know @turbopsi has a series II, but in his last post he was actually quoting from the series III manual.
He understood the need to fit a battery switch between the Setec and the battery to switch the battery on and off. This is needed on a series II.

In a series III, the battery is wired directly to the Setec. No battery switch in that path.
The battery is connected and disconnected within the Setec and controlled via a simple switch.
One consequence of this is when this battery switch is on, the Setec charges the battery normally.
However, when the switch is off, it disconnects the battery form the loads BUT still enable the battery to be trickle charged at up to 0.8A.

@turbopsi correctly spotted the issue: If, in his case, he wired a Setec series II correctly with a battery switch between the battery and the Setec, how could the Setec possibly supply a trickle charge to the battery when the switch was in the off position? Of course if can't.

Here are the block diagrams of the Series II followed by the Series III:

take care
Mike

View attachment 65649 View attachment 65650
Hey guys, yes as spotted mine is the series II. I now see it's not relating to my unit.

BTW. Does anyone know what these cable pass through covers are called? And where to get them? Cheers.
 

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mikerezny

Well-Known Member
Sep 11, 2016
1,270
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67
Mount Waverley, VIC
#43
Mar 22, 2016
53
16
8
43
Melbourne, Australia
#44
Hi,
I posted the correct manual for your Setec II in post #30 of this thread:
https://www.expandasdownunder.com/threads/setec-cover-removal.12442/post-204618

Take care
Mike
Hey Mike

Yes I saw that and I've referred to that manual from a previous post of yours. I just saw the comment in another thread and it got me thinking as I didn't know there was a difference to the next model up as I haven't had the need to have a read of it. Apologies if I confused things....
 
Mar 22, 2016
53
16
8
43
Melbourne, Australia
#46
Hi guys.

I'm a bit late with an update but I only managed to get started on the caravan wiring yesterday. The battery and accessories sockets are wired in.

Last jobs remaining are 1. side Anderson plug for solar and 2. Anderson to drawbar to connect to tow vehicle.

I have another question for the brain trust here. If the setec is already wired with an aux in from the tow vehicle via the 7 pin plug, how will that work with a DC-DC charger/regulator wired directly to the battery. Power for the DC-DC charger will be fed in from the tow vehicles Anderson plug.

Cheers.
 

Boots in Action

Well-Known Member
Mar 13, 2017
1,251
1,092
113
Ferny Grove, Queensland
#47
Hi guys.

I'm a bit late with an update but I only managed to get started on the caravan wiring yesterday. The battery and accessories sockets are wired in.

Last jobs remaining are 1. side Anderson plug for solar and 2. Anderson to drawbar to connect to tow vehicle.

I have another question for the brain trust here. If the setec is already wired with an aux in from the tow vehicle via the 7 pin plug, how will that work with a DC-DC charger/regulator wired directly to the battery. Power for the DC-DC charger will be fed in from the tow vehicles Anderson plug.

Cheers.
Hi @turbopsi , as you are aware, the purpose of the DC-DC charger is to boost voltage from tug alternator to a suitable and proper charging voltage at the van battery connection. This also overcomes voltage loss between tug and van wiring. From my understanding, the wire from van input at van (pin # 8 on 12 pin trailer socket or equivalent on 7 pin type) which is the 12 volt line to van battery. This line is then connected to DC_DC charger and output from charger (at higher voltage) is connected directly to van battery and not through SETEC, as that circuit has a power diode which will knock 0.7 volt off input voltage. I believe the charger has ability to prevent current from tug battery being used when engine not running. I do not have such equipment, but I know there are members on this forum who will be able to give you more precise details on how they connected same. If using a separate Anderson plug from tug to power DC_DC charger, I would just disconnect the 12 volt line (input for van battery) at the 7 pin or 12 pin connector.
 
Likes: turbopsi

Drover

Well-Known Member
Nov 7, 2013
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QLD
www.expandasdownunder.com
#48
Unless you are running a dedicated 12v supply from tug to fridge then I would just disconnect the 12v connection at the Setek as normally Jayco has the 12v from the plug going to both fridge and Setek........possibly not always but disconnecting at Setek would be best.... Much better to have a dedictaed feed from tug better cabling and andersons, leaving the 7/12 pin for just tail lights etc.

If using a DC-DC charger I would have it fitted in the tug then it can be used when van not connected to run a portable battery pack etc but if fitted in van then run its output direct to battery and run its supply direct from tug via Anderson, disconnect Setek 12v from 7/12pin plug at the Setek, cut the cable end off and cover in heat shrink. ( a long piece so it doesn't come off)
 
Mar 22, 2016
53
16
8
43
Melbourne, Australia
#49
Hi all. Just wanted to thank you all with some photos The installation of "stage one" is done and working

Stage one includes:
- Battery box with Anderson fittings.
- battery switch
- 12v accessories sockets and volt meter inside van.
- Anderson plug for regulated solar on service side of van.
Anderson plug on awning side of van for fridge and 12v distribution box.
- Changed the narva swivel halogen lamp above bench to an LED model.
- Swapped out rangehood Lamp to LED.

That covers the basics for now. Thanks to the brain trust on this site I am aware of the limitations for charging an AGM battery to its full potential using the setec and jayco aux in from tow vehicle but I will topping the battery up using my cetek smart charger where possible.

The setup will most stay this way unless I feel the need for stage 2 which is Anderson plug from town vehicle and a DC-DC charger.

For now it's the normal case of testing things out and monitoring usage.

Thanks again to all.
 

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Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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#50
Well there's one big glaring fault with all that "Its just too bluddy neat" ......................................... :biggrin1::biggrin1::biggrin1::biggrin1::biggrin1:

I wouldn't worry about the getting a full charge, when your camping batteries always have something sucking on them so its not a biggy in reality, if off grid camping just make sure your storage is 4 times your average usage and you should be good... do an audit of how much juice you would use a day if everything got a run....thats your base line.
 
Mar 22, 2016
53
16
8
43
Melbourne, Australia
#51
@Drover lol All I saw in my email alert was "Well there's one big glaring fault with all that".. :)

I've been testing today with the volt meter but I'll have some better data when I receive my watt meter and start plugging it into different Anderson inputs and outputs.

Cheers
Tony.
 

Drover

Well-Known Member
Nov 7, 2013
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#52
Thought it should put a smile on, :) , need something to smile about down there................................. Just don't get too serious testing things in regards to power draw, so long as the circuit works then its good, I originally many years back looked at the labels of the gear, added it up and it was under the 50% of storage so it was a few years before I got serious to check it again, in fact I recently got the bug and checked things on my rig, it was under the storage limit and within the supply on a reasonable day of sun on panels, so good enough and figures have been forgotten, better things to do than look at some data screen .................

Today I tested the clearance/stop lights etc on Big Mal after doing mods and stuff, one clearance that I'd pulled apart didn't work and I eventually found a crappy crimp on a connector, must been the arthritis playing up when I used the tool.................;););) .......................so it pays to check things well before you head away.....................