Day 24: Marla to Coober Pedy
Dist: 235km, Fuel: 144.9¢/l @ 16.0l/100 km.
We left Marla for Coober Pedy, a town we have visited back in 2012 in the Penguin. Some visitors don't seem to like this town but considering its history, a mining town built by fortune hunters highly suspicious of everyone, digging giant holes everywhere in search of the elusive opal and not really a tourist centre, it is a quirky and very interesting place with its unique underground accommodation that includes Housing, Hotels and B&B's.
You just need to take your time and ask at the information centre and you will get good information about things well worth seeing even if it is somewhat of a Wild West and unusual place. Most of the roads and streets have absolutely no planning to them, they are just tracks to mining claims made semi-permanent by use, many with no names and seemingly heading off in many random directions. The only reference really is the Main Street through the town (nearly straight) called Hutchinson Rd, one of a number bituminised with a supermarket, bank, a few service stations and many random shops stretched along its length. Parking also seems a bit haphazard but, hey, what do you expect in a frontier town! It still has a working Drive In theatre.
We left Marla and took note of the Oodnadatta Track coming in just at the southern edge of town. The track is open at the moment but described as wet, probably passable by 4x4 with more wet weather looming.
The road south to Coober Pedy consists of long flat stretches through basically treeless, flat country with low bushes only recently greened up by the rains with the occasional windy bits just to keep you on your toes.

A few Brumbies grazing on the fresh growth and roadworks just out of CP where the lowly pop man kept us waiting for about 20 min for our escort to arrive. This did hurt our fuel eff a bit but we were in no hurry as this leg was relatively short.

Marv kept his eyes on the escort!
Mullock heaps! Must be getting close to Coober Pedy. These dot the landscape for seemingly hundreds of square kilometers.

After setting up, we made a visit to John's Pizza Bar for a delicious Pizza for lunch and then to the information centre at the entrance to the town. Heaps of good suggestions, so many to choose from!
First on our list was Faye's Underground Home and Opal mine. Faye and two other women dug out their home by hand with pick, shovel and wheel barrow in the 1960's (no mechanical diggers available in those days) doing this while all holding down full time jobs around the frontier town.

Next was to seek out 'The Big Winch' a great lookout to survey most of the town. Originally also located here was apparently a tourism venture now neglected, boarded up and run down but still an ideal lookout point.

Then a trip out to Crocodile Harry's Underground Dugout but look out, big holes and pitfalls abound!
About 7km out of town along a fairly good dirt road that weaves amongst mullock heaps and mines.

Harry was of Latvian background and spent 13 years hunting crocs up north before trying his hand at opal mining in the 1970's. His dugout was used in Mad Max 3 and is adorned with relics of his eccentric lifestyle and the many tourists who have left their mark when visiting this bizarre home.
The Serbian Orthodox Underground Church is probably the best of the underground churches in the town with striking sculptured ceilings, carved icons and colored glass windows.

Last but certainly not least is a visit to the Desert Cave Hotel with its underground museum and opal exhibition.
This is a must see to get a full history of the historical development of the town, it's colourful characters and the full opal story. It gives visitors a good idea how the outback and the Stuart Highway was developed with the changing transport technology.

You can finish of course with an ice cold beer in the underground bar and like all the underground accommodation, dwellings and mines around the town, are always a comfortable 21° - 25°C no matter how hot or cold it gets outside.
50°C in summer is not uncommon nor are night temperatures near freezing.
It does mean though that swimming in Faye's in ground pool can be a bit chilly!
Off to Woomera tomorrow for our last night away from home.
Catch you all then. Marv