17' Series Fridge service/repair Mt Gambier?

[Drover]

The smell of gas does point to a connection leak somewhere at the back of the fridge before it gets to the burner valves, I would say it is the gas line that runs from the fuel selector or a connection that is around this area, where the line runs from the gas tap to selector and then down to burner, you may have to pull the fridge out to check the fittings behind the panel..

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[Boots in Action]

Thanks for the knowledgeable replies guys. Much appreciated as always.

Ok so had a couple days on 240v (oh the joy!!!) and fridge was working fine. Nice and level too which I know helps.

The last 2 days has been back onto gas and mixed to poor results.

First day van was pretty level side to side but a bit worse front to back (which is side to side for the fridge as it is on side wall of van).

Fridge was around 5 to 7 degrees, maybe a little higher. Slight smell of gas still.

Woke up and fridge was around 9 degs. Moved van today to get it perfectly level front to back and not too bad side to side (but could be better) to see if that would fix. Got a new bottle of gas.

When I turned it on it was 10.4 degs and is now 14.5 degs 5 hours later. Turned off gas, had a little cry.

Sprayed all fittings and pipe work from bottle to regulator to valves and pipes all the way to where it goes up through floor and no leaks. So has to be somewhere between control panel and burner perhaps. Gas smell as soon as fridge controls turned on.

I had a read of some info from previous posts here and I felt the boiler and it was hot but no heat on absorber, indicating no circulation.

So maybe 2 issues now - blockage and gas leak.

getting things fixed on the road and in a timely manner is the pits. Long weekend upon us and 8 days on Kangaroo island immediately after.

might have to go powers site on KI and try get fixed near Adelaide when we are back on mainland.

Any remedies to fix blockage of the absorber?

Hi @Roadhouse , sorry to hear of your continuing problems with gas operation on fridge. The good news is if it works okay on 240v especially if level, then there is no problem with the the piping. If there was, then it would not work at cooling the fridge at all!!!
As it fails to work on gas (and there is any smell of gas!) then the problem is definitely in the gas supply and burner system. The gas flame should be a steady deep blue with no flickering or yellow bits. And the gas control selector should be correct and temperature control on max as it was on 240v. The smell of gas is a worry as it indicates a loss somewhere and with the burner flame on, complete combustion is not occurring. I would put my money on gas jet, partially blocked burner or even a blocked or partially blocked chimney. @Drover will surely have some points if I have missed any. Good luck, but check out gas flame.

 

[Boots in Action]

The smell of gas does point to a connection leak somewhere at the back of the fridge before it gets to the burner valves, I would say it is the gas line that runs from the fuel selector or a connection that is around this area, where the line runs from the gas tap to selector and then down to burner, you may have to pull the fridge out to check the fittings behind the panel..

Gas Pipe, Suit Dometic RM2553 RM4601 Fridges | CaravansPlus

Delivered Fast | 2932619014 | Gas pipe that connects the fuel selector valve to the thermostat control on a number of Dometic...more info.

www.caravansplus.com.au

in the drawing https://www.caravansplus.com.au/spa...right-fridge-controls-black-trim-p-12967.html

Unfortunately @Roadhouse, @Drover is right about having to pull fridge forward to check this out. You will have to disconnect fridge at rear from mountings and electrics, so you can pull fridge forward to access those pipe connections behind control panel. If @Drover is right, that will explain the smell of gas when first turned on, even if fridge not lit. Also as pressure in the gas line at that point is only 2.75kpa, any leak before the gas jet and burner will reduce gas flow to flame. Not a job for the inexperienced or uneducated. Looks like you will have to use 240v power until you can get that area looked at.

 

[Drover]

Unfortunately @Roadhouse, @Drover is right about having to pull fridge forward to check this out. You will have to disconnect fridge at rear from mountings and electrics, so you can pull fridge forward to access those pipe connections behind control panel. If @Drover is right, that will explain the smell of gas when first turned on, even if fridge not lit. Also as pressure in the gas line at that point is only 2.75kpa, any leak before the gas jet and burner will reduce gas flow to flame. Not a job for the inexperienced or uneducated. Looks like you will have to use 240v power until you can get that area looked at.

and leave the gas tap for fridge OFF............ in all possibility the selector has failed or the line from it to the burner has loosened, as I think you noted only smell gas when switched to gas not when on 240v, so in my mind that narrows it down to the selector or the line from it to the burner.....................

 

[Roadhouse]

Sorry guys and gals - getting a bit boring I know.

At Victor Harbor on 240v and fridge took a few hours to get down to 5 degs yesterday (from 18 degs on the road). Woke up this morning and was at 2.5 degs and feeling happy about things.

34 degs today and fridge climbed during the day to be 12 degs now at 9:30pm. Something isn’t right. Fark.

Don’t understand how it works ok yesterday on 240v but today struggling. Yes it’s warmer today but shouldn’t be in 12 degs.

gor a gas dude looking at it 8th Feb but are we terminal if struggling on 240?

 

[Boots in Action]

Sorry guys and gals - getting a bit boring I know.

At Victor Harbor on 240v and fridge took a few hours to get down to 5 degs yesterday (from 18 degs on the road). Woke up this morning and was at 2.5 degs and feeling happy about things.

34 degs today and fridge climbed during the day to be 12 degs now at 9:30pm. Something isn’t right. Fark.

Don’t understand how it works ok yesterday on 240v but today struggling. Yes it’s warmer today but shouldn’t be in 12 degs.

gor a gas dude looking at it 8th Feb but are we terminal if struggling on 240?

 

[Boots in Action]

You are not boring to any of us @Roadhouse . The temps you show are satisfactory considering the conditions. Taking a few hours to pull down from 18C to 5C is normal as Absorption fridges take a while to recover after door has been opened a few times in those sort of conditions. Why did it get so high in the first place?? Not connected to power or to your tug while travelling??? It also depends on the temperature rating of fridge as stated on label inside fridge - "T" indicates that fridge is able to hold internal fridge temperature at 5C or less in an ambient temp of up to 43C. But that does not apply if door is opened and closed a few times!! When the door is opened, all the cold air at the bottom falls out and hot air (at 34C!) takes its place. There are several ways to assist in helping an absorbent fridge work - installing computer fans at the back of fridge to help move the hot air over the pipes at the back and through the condenser (that finned thing) at the top. Also, having a shade over the side of the van on fridge side. Another major problem is improper installation by van manufacturer and you will see that mentioned in the attached. Your fridge mechanic cannot make it work any better if it can pull down fridge temp to 2.5C overnight. So it is NOT your fridge but possibly your unreal expectations and usage that are causing you concern. Have a good read of the whole of the attached and you will get a better understanding of the limitations of any absorption fridge, besides making sure it is level and within tolerances. I will see if I can provide some more information for you tomorrow. Cheers and stay positive. There are plenty on this forum ready to help.

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Also found a former post of cooling test for my 93l Thetford fridge. Note high ambient temperatures and freezer/fridge temps too. Yours should do just as well if properly installed and possibly a few cheap mods. More info will come I am sure.

 

[Drover]

As Booties said it takes awhile for 240 to pull down, feel around the cabinet/cupboard that encloses your fridge, when its running a few inches out from the outer wall should be warm even very warm if its next to the flu. If the heat is felt further out from the wall or top of fridge , then its not insulated correctly and the heat instead of escaping from the top vent is working its way around the fridge...............
Also did you look at the small flu vent to see if it has a bit of pipe poking out from the wall ??? If there isn't then its not venting correctly...

But on a hot day the fridge getting to those temps isn't unusual, even with fans at the back.... such a small capacity can take a long time to recover, I have a screen to cover the back pf my fridge, actually a full sail track and I use a awning screen so not only fridge gets a sun shade the whole side of van does............ all of this is no bluddy use when travelling though....
a bushie fix is to have a towel which hangs down over most of the fridge wall/vents and is kept wet, top sitting in a tray of water and you get the coolgardie fridge effect, it works ....

 

[Hitting the road]

I am still not overly happy with my fridge temps... but for input purposes here, on 240v I see morning temps of 2 - 5 degrees in the fridge depending on ambient, and the freezer only drops to maybe -17 at best....then as they day progresses the fridge can get as high as 10 degrees after some opening and closing and some sun on the outer wall, and the freezer has risen to as bad as -5 on some days without even opening it...

I am still feeling my way with it too...works ok holding temp on 12v while traveling, and is ok so far on gas with similar temps to 240v...

 

[Boots in Action]

I am still not overly happy with my fridge temps... but for input purposes here, on 240v I see morning temps of 2 - 5 degrees in the fridge depending on ambient, and the freezer only drops to maybe -17 at best....then as they day progresses the fridge can get as high as 10 degrees after some opening and closing and some sun on the outer wall, and the freezer has risen to as bad as -5 on some days without even opening it...

I am still feeling my way with it too...works ok holding temp on 12v while traveling, and is ok so far on gas with similar temps to 240v...

@Hitting the road, good to hear that you are learning a few hints and tips about the operation of absorption fridges. One thing to remember is that the freezer section gets priority as my chart shows. If your freezer section is getting that warm, it would indicate that the freezer door is not closing/sealing properly and letting the cold freezing air escape. Just make sure that nothing is pushing on the inside of door stopping it from remaining FULLY closed. As you obviously have a 2 door fridge, that is the only reason that freezer temps get so high without affecting the fridge part in some way. If the freezer section can get down to -17C or or close to that initially, but rises during the day, it definitely indicates a sealing issue of some sort.

 

[Drover]

Works great on 12v as you motor down the road, bingo, that to me says, while door opening is a major cause of rising temps the air flow at back of fridge may also be part of the problem, one or two computer fans mounted on the top vent to extract the air quicker will give some relief, fitting at the top allows a low pressure zone there so air flows in quicker from the bottom vent, ............ over all your temps do seem about normal for what happens to your basic fridge when outside gets to 30 plus, you only have to feel the outer wall where fridge is to feel the temps the unit has to contend with ...... I recently pulled my 10 yr old fridge out and improved its insulation and sealing, cleaned the cooling unit of rust and dirt, rebuilt the flu chimney and have found its working better than ever.. mine has dual fans on the top vent and a fan inside to disperse the air so we don't get frozen toms and eggs................

 

[Hitting the road]

I did mount a 120mm computer fan to the upper vent...and mounted a thermostat on the back cooling fins to operate it, but I don't think the area I mounted the thermostat is getting hot enough to start the fan...
I generally check the top and bottom vents outside for temp as well as the little flue thing on the outer wall to ensure the fridge is doing as it should...warm at top, cool at bottom...I do need to give the cooling fins a bit of a clean as they are looking a tad rusty which would certainly inhibit the cooling effect from air circulation...
This fridge has a fan inside near the fins to circulate air, and it also has two smaller computer type fans near the bottom of the cooling fins...they don't appear to do much at all.

I'll have another look at the freezer door seals, it has never had much in it so there hasn't been anything interfering with it closing...but maybe the cold is leaking out somewhere...

 

[Boots in Action]

I did mount a 120mm computer fan to the upper vent...and mounted a thermostat on the back cooling fins to operate it, but I don't think the area I mounted the thermostat is getting hot enough to start the fan...
I generally check the top and bottom vents outside for temp as well as the little flue thing on the outer wall to ensure the fridge is doing as it should...warm at top, cool at bottom...I do need to give the cooling fins a bit of a clean as they are looking a tad rusty which would certainly inhibit the cooling effect from air circulation...
This fridge has a fan inside near the fins to circulate air, and it also has two smaller computer type fans near the bottom of the cooling fins...they don't appear to do much at all.

I'll have another look at the freezer door seals, it has never had much in it so there hasn't been anything interfering with it closing...but maybe the cold is leaking out somewhere...

@Hitting the road , at what temp does the thermo you have open? I use a 50C one and it is placed fairly close to the first section of pipe at the top after the finned area starts. The closer to the entry point of condenser, the hotter the gaseous ammonia before it is changed to a liquid form. You can check the operation of fan by shorting out the thermo terminals - a wire across the terminals does the trick. Make sure the thermo is sitting flush against metal pipe so there is good thermal transfer of heat. If using a section of the condenser FINS, then probably a lower thermo may be required , ie. use a 45C or 40C instead of 50C and move thermo closer to entry point into the condenser. You want the fans to operate when that temp is reached, but then switch off after the area has cooled approx 15C. You don't want the fan/s running all the time.

As far as the freezer door is concerned, check that there is a good straight surface contact along the entire sealing area - no buckles or mis-alignment owing damage in closing. Try using a thin bit of paper or a $5.00 or $10.00 note if you are rich enough to have one or two between the surfaces to check closing pressures! If really bad, try a bright light in freezer and close door. No light should be visible if all surfaces are meeting evenly.

 

[Drover]

Have found with the big 2 door fridge on hot days I have the fans at the back going all day, my thermo broke ages ago and I have never replaced it I would say its the hot day and too much sun being the cause this time around, if your freezer door is leaking you will have an icy area around the leak or lots of condensation near that section.... this time last year or year before I think was wandering around Bingara in this sort of weather, was slinging buckets of water from river onto wall/screen to try and get the temp to stay down, fridge was up in the 8/9 area and ice cream wasn't solid in freezer....... its was around the 34c outside, joys of camping in summer even my old Engel struggles if not in the right spot ....

 

[Hitting the road]

The thermostat is a 60 degree I think from memory...very likely a too higher temp to be useful...it was all Jaycar had at the time.

When I take the van out in a few weeks time again I'll revisit the thermostat issue....maybe even do what Drover has done - bypass the thermostat totally and just put a switch in to turn the fan on. when needed. There has never been any sign of frost around the freezer door, nor any condensation inside either as far as I have seen. Unfortunately I don't have the ability to muck around with it between trips as it is in storage...a total pita really...

Meanwhile I do have the sputtering water supply to sort out before heading out West in March...

 

[Boots in Action]

Have found with the big 2 door fridge on hot days I have the fans at the back going all day, my thermo broke ages ago and I have never replaced it I would say its the hot day and too much sun being the cause this time around, if your freezer door is leaking you will have an icy area around the leak or lots of condensation near that section.... this time last year or year before I think was wandering around Bingara in this sort of weather, was slinging buckets of water from river onto wall/screen to try and get the temp to stay down, fridge was up in the 8/9 area and ice cream wasn't solid in freezer....... its was around the 34c outside, joys of camping in summer even my old Engel struggles if not in the right spot ....

@Drover , it really gets tough on refrigerators and their operation under those conditions being so hot. Some nice ideas to help the cooling process you have suggested - the Coolgardie safe idea and wetting the side of van fridge side. Simple but effective as every bit helps on those occasions!!!
Yes, there would be some sign of frost/moisture at any leakage point as I have noticed a build up of ice at the edge of a small area on my freezer, which being a single door type, means closure of freezer door is by spring pressure only.

 

[Drover]

Old school ideas still work and apply nowadays just that some forget or never knew, throw a bucket of water over the awning screen drops the temp nicely when sitting in the shade, with the fridge wall being very hot to touch a bucket or 2 of creek water cools it down heaps and if you have a screen over it a couple of applications over 30 mins and you can see the fridge temp drop, just a lot of work, though a fella at Bingara pulled out his 12v pump and made a sprinkler for his.. a 12v pump is on my list......

Having found the freezer/fridge door with a bit of paper or some such in the seal, ice near the opening and water on floor........ kept quite as it was my fault...

 

[Boots in Action]

The thermostat is a 60 degree I think from memory...very likely a too higher temp to be useful...it was all Jaycar had at the time.

When I take the van out in a few weeks time again I'll revisit the thermostat issue....maybe even do what Drover has done - bypass the thermostat totally and just put a switch in to turn the fan on. when needed. There has never been any sign of frost around the freezer door, nor any condensation inside either as far as I have seen. Unfortunately I don't have the ability to muck around with it between trips as it is in storage...a total pita really...

Meanwhile I do have the sputtering water supply to sort out before heading out West in March...

Yes @Hitting the road, a 60C thermo would probably be too high for most times, especially if you cannot place thermo flush against the hot pipe itself. The large metal fins provide a good flat surface but have already dissipated some heat from the condenser pipe. It was @Drover who put me onto the clip on arrangement for the thermo and I have used that arrangement on my other absorption fridge and for friends' fridges too with great success. All also with an in-line switch. I got a selection of temperatures for mine from Ebay and at only $1.00 each so very cheap. I like the idea of automatic on/off thermo. The fans may come on frequently during a hot day (around 28C plus ambient), but rarely come on at night after 7.00pm. One less thing to remember to turn off. Perhaps I can get you a supply from Ebay and have them delivered to your address?? Send me a PM. You have already purchased the remote sensing thermometer for fridge and freezer I think, so you can see the value of such an acquisition.

 

[Hitting the road]

I do like the idea of the thermo operated fan, as I'd always forget to turn it off by a switch...would be in the middle of "Happy Hour"...lol

Where did you guys get the clip things? Got to a whole lot better than tiny cable ties which I have on there now...

 

[Boots in Action]

I do like the idea of the thermo operated fan, as I'd always forget to turn it off by a switch...would be in the middle of "Happy Hour"...lol

Where did you guys get the clip things? Got to a whole lot better than tiny cable ties which I have on there now...

I do like the idea of the thermo operated fan, as I'd always forget to turn it off by a switch...would be in the middle of "Happy Hour"...lol

Where did you guys get the clip things? Got to a whole lot better than tiny cable ties which I have on there now...

Got them from Bunnings for a few dollars. They are just clips for holding tools onto wall. Come in a packet of 2 or 3. Different sizes suit 13mm or 19mm. I used the 13mm one. Modify small aluminum or brass or copper (good heat conducting material) as a plate and suitable heat conducting screw through clip. Must be absolutely flush so thermo fits evenly and does not protrude through clip at all to damage face of thermo when held down by screws through plate. Not too much pressure to be applied. More info if required. @Drover used rivets, but I used small screws and nuts - more even pressure and makes for easy change-over of thermos in the field if necessary by undoing nuts. I often cheat from others' good ideas!!