EGR's - CRD Killer

[bigcol]

the main problem is that if your MAF sensor is blocked, it tells the ECU not enough Air & not enough Fuel.......

you need to keep your MAF sensor as clean as possible

IF I had a CRD, it would have both EGR blocked and a catch can fitted

both do an excellent job of increasing the life of your engine

I have been told previously by a mate (Mechanical Engineer) that they dont work
but
the results speak for themselves

ANY computer controlled Diesel, Di or CRD should have both Catch Can (Provent seems to be the better buying) and EGR blocked
how you deal with the fault codes is neither here nor there

 

[Tone]

My old Triton ml 3.2 never had catch can or egr delete and intake manifold got fairly blocked, Mitsubishi wanted $800 to fix but deceived to give it a go myself. Half a day some skin off the knuckles and 2 cans of mag wheel cleaner and good as new. Total cost $4

 

[bigcol]

just make sure you use a quality MAF cleaner

some of the cheaper tyres leave a thin film of oil on them - but they are clean, just they are as grotty as when you started

 

[Johnanbev]

@PhilW Thanks for the heads up on pressure relief.
@Drover I don't think the engine will run if you put a block off plate in.
I was reading over on Caravaners Forum last week how to block off, but can't find the thread now.
Off memory they were putting a 3/8 bolt in the vac. line "T" junction, then a resistor in the temp. wire from the MAF.
Maybe PhilW can lead you to it.

 

[Drover]

A couple of holes in the plate will allow a bit of sooty air thru to keep the ECM happy, depends on the engine config as to how you do it, mine has a vacuum operated EGR valve so putting resistor on the MAF wire tells the ECM the outside temp is 5deg c or less so keeps the EGR closed but it also thinks being that cold it will charge the battery a bit harder and longer and seems to cook a few so I can hack a little soot, other types are electronic valves and an electronic fix works easier....

Depending on who makes the engine as to what you can do to eliminate the thing.......but a catch can is a must.

I use Liqui-Molloy stuff seems to be good gear.

Have read the other forums thread .

 

[Johnanbev]

I have the same truck as you @Drover, and after seeing my MAP sensor I agree that the oil has to be removed.
However there is the other argument that it is needed to "soften" the carbon particles from the exhaust which are soft while hot but harden going through the turbo heat exchanger and the oil tends to keep the solidified particles less abrasive in the engine.
Seems as if you are dammed if you do and dammed if you don't

 

[Drover]

Probably right @Johnanbev , I just looked under my bonnet again and saw why it's taken me so long to get around to fitting a plate, skinned knuckles for sure and the plate would go in with 8mm holes in it as I wouldn't want to take it off again......stuff it, still running nicely so will leave it alone (read lazy).......................... if I can find my little cam might stick it down the throttle body and have a lookie at the inlets don't think it will be scary...........................Catch can still keeps the air oily plus there's usually a puddle in the bottom of the pre cooler.

PS: maybe the oil makes them bigger lumps and what sticks to the manifold wall in clumps later breaks a big chunk off to be crunched in the engine and I can tell you that stuff is not soft one little bit....

 

[Johnanbev]

Probably right @Johnanbev , I just looked under my bonnet again and saw why it's taken me so long to get around to fitting a plate, skinned knuckles for sure and the plate would go in with 8mm holes in it as I wouldn't want to take it off again......stuff it, still running nicely so will leave it alone (read lazy).......................... if I can find my little cam might stick it down the throttle body and have a lookie at the inlets don't think it will be scary...........................Catch can still keeps the air oily plus there's usually a puddle in the bottom of the pre cooler.

PS: maybe the oil makes them bigger lumps and what sticks to the manifold wall in clumps later breaks a big chunk off to be crunched in the engine and I can tell you that stuff is not soft one little bit....

 

[Johnanbev]

Yes great for grinding paste

 

[Drover]

Ha, yeah, grinding paste for sure...............................................give it a few years and we will have to use AddBlu or similar crap, the stuff isn't bad it's just the sensors play up and your suddenly in limp mode, on a narrow road at the bottom of a hill with a timber jinker about to roll over the top of you...............ooppss memory kicking in from days when I used to go to W"delete swear word "K.....................

In my old Jeep I got a heap of oil from the pre cooler when I sorted the EGR and added a catch can, didn't bother with the Colorado though, thought it will go in the fullness of time, plus getting it all out is not an easy job...........

 

[Johnanbev]

Talk about memory kicking in, nasty things timber jinkers, years ago I was driving a Land Rover up the mountain the truck was coming down, we met near a corner, he was wide going too fast, I squeezed as close to the cliff on left as possible, braked hard, started the old fish tailing stuff, front of land rover went under the logs and came out again before the rear wheels of the truck got to us, SCARY!
My boss was in left seat, said it was the best piece of driving he had seen and was grateful to be alive!
Sorry off subject, just a memory thing.

 

[Drover]

Always said you can do anything with a Landy..........................we do allow off topic here, just sort of meander around the subject mostly then fall back into line..............wish this damn barbie would cook, I'm hungry.

 

[chartrock]

Has anyone fitted a catch can to a BT50, preferably a Pro Vent 200? If so where and how did you fit it?

The time has come with all the scary stories on here to fit one to my truck,

 

[Drover]

Thought there might have been some takers to your query @chartrock by now..............generally they are fitted at the back of the engine off the firewall or hanging off a fitting, some retailers provide brackets for the vehicle model which makes it easier but does increase the cost......making a bracket can be a very annoying job though............removal and leaving the engine cover in the shed does make the job easier and should be entertained for other reasons as well................a Mr Google search of images will pop a few ideas I'm sure.

 

[chartrock]

Thanks @Drover, I have searched a number of sites and have a few ideas but was just wanted to hear from anyone who has done the job.

 

[bigcol]

for those of you with a 200 series, and Faceache..................

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1316626838380879

 

[Drover]

Thats confirmed my views anyway, went from 5W30 to 10W40 and have been thinking of going to a 15W40........You could just run a hose to down on the chassis rail but would leave oil drips on the ground and will be a bit fumy underneath when stopped.

 

[coled1970]

Has anyone fitted a catch can to a BT50, preferably a Pro Vent 200? If so where and how did you fit it?

The time has come with all the scary stories on here to fit one to my truck,

Hey there Chartrock, Just fitted the flash lube catch can to mine, still in the process of making another bracket to mount it else where. I know the pro vent catch can has a bracket designed to mount on the passenger side near the ABS module. I could not mount the catch can there due to the genuine dual battery solenoid being mounted there. Also did the EGR blank.
Have done about a 1000k's but still have no oil in the drain tube. I have also been running 10w40 oil in mine which may be helping reduce the oil blow-by.

 

[chartrock]

Thanks for that @coled1970, I have bought the Pro-vent and am wondering how and where to fit it. Do you have any pics of your setup? Where did you actually fit it if not near the ADS module?

 

[coled1970]

Thanks for that @coled1970, I have bought the Pro-vent and am wondering how and where to fit it. Do you have any pics of your setup? Where did you actually fit it if not near the ADS module?

Here is the link to wesfilters, https://www.westernfilters.net.au/p...ford-everest-2017on-ranger-mazda-bt50-2011on/ this one takes the extra fulfiller also. there is also one for just the catch can. Mine has a bracket i made which mounts it to the RH side of the engine but i am currently working on bracket for mounting it to the RH inner guard just behind the air filter. Will try to get some pic's of current set up tomorrow and new set up if new bracket works out.