Dave's 2013 17.56-2 OB

[DaveR]

I should add, the jigsaw is capable of making this sort of fire basket, no need to go all fancy like I have, but do not try to cut across the seem weld around the cyl, it is a difficult cut with a jig saw. I suggest to make simple diamond shapes around the base and top half, different sized diamonds should look great I think, not that I have seen one.
This can be done with a series of small holes to get the jigsaw in to start the cut. Wear long sleeves as the metal shavings from the saw will burn easy.

 

[DaveR]

A plasma cutter would be sweet for this job. I've never had a thin disc fail yet and I've used them in all the wrong ways.

Well, got this 1st one done, now sizing up for the next one for the oven. May combine the 2 extra cyl's for the 1 job, then send my mate out to fetch some more for his.

 

[Drover]

Yep, very cool..............Could sell them to the peasants for a song for sure.

 

[DaveR]

Yep, very cool..............Could sell them to the peasants for a song for sure.

No thanks, made too much mess in my shed.
Although, i have now added to the mess.
I needed somewhere to carry the timber blocks I have for under the drop jacks.
The timber is the engineered type which is lighter then typical treated pine sleepers, and wont split. They are about 200 x 200 x 50 mm. I'll be using them mostly on the sand, also when on a slope.
I wanted somewhere to place them where I don't have to worry about how dirty they are. Up behind the rear wheels was perfect.
I ran a couple bits of light weight 25 x 25 mm angle and the blocks slide in from the side. I don't need to crawl under to get them out.
The new bit of angle are welded to the removable rear bar, not the vans chassis.





The 6 x timber blocks stack on each other, 2 rows of 3 blocks.



Next I need a simple "Hasp and Staple" to lock them in from sliding out to the side. Next time I'm at the green shed I'll grab 1. Total cost is about 1/3 of a can of cold gal paint, that is it.

 

[DaveR]

I made a wood stove for the camp oven or fry pan to sit on from a 2nd 9kg cyl.
There is a 3" exhaust for great turbo sounds, umm, I mean smoke stack.
The top that was cut out for the open fire part is used in under for the flue.
I made the door latch, to finish it I need the exhaust extensions and fire proof paint.
A ring around the top is to locate the camp oven in place.



Also the fry pan sits up top.



Now looking under at the flue, has 6 x 1" holes.





I forgot to make a grill inside, monday arvo job. Funny how you notice things like that after everything is packed away.

 

[DaveR]

Made a start on a "Grey Water Tank" project today.
I've been collecting 100mm storm water pipe I find lying about at work, plus a few fittings. Sadly I had to buy a few also.
The plan is this section to be secured to the under frame section forward of the axel, behind the front tank.





The volume of this arrangement is about 56 liters. I have used ths pipe so I can unscrew a cap and hose out the food scraps and soap residue etc.

 

[DaveR]

Sadly tree house renos got in the way of getting more of this job done today.

 

[DaveR]

I am thinking of using 150 mm down the back, as it gives a lot more volume, eg, 1.4 section gives 17 liters, for 100mm it is 10 liters.
But
I'll most likely use 100.......

 

[DaveR]

I have soldiered up some fittings to add about 30 liters more.
There is now a very convenient fitting in the green shed which is in the "Grey water section" it is a 60mm adapter to 25 mm hose tail which make life very easy for this job, better then 15 fittings to do the same thing.



The fitting I mention can be seen here.



Now I just got to figure out how I can mount it all, and the dump valve position.

 

[peterg]

Loving your work @DaveR

 

[DaveR]

I have got what I think you describe lined up already. Its gonna be the last thing I get to.

 

[DaveR]

PS, I gave up on the 150 mm pipe size idea, to hard, plus I got none lying about in my shed that I scored for nix.

 

[DaveR]

I have managed to get the grey water tank done. Sadly it has a knock on effect of more troubles to be checked for.

This 1st pic shows the 55 liter section forward of the axle. The top right of shot is a screw cap for access into the tank for flushing out to the lowest point at the drain. On the lower side of the pick, the 100 line over the axle toward the rear can be seen, for ease of maintenance and installation, a rubber in line joiner has been used, the black rubber type.


Behind the axle is the spare, and behind that is another 2 x 100 mm lines, each with a screw cap for flushing also.



Next pic is looking forward along the right side, the 2 x rear 100 mm lines can be seen leading to the left, in front of that are the 2 x connections for the flexible lines from the various drains.
I used a "Level invert taper" fitting to step down from 100 to 50 mm, but due to the 50 to 25 mm red bush being a cause to prevent 100 % draining, I took to the invert taper fitting with a heat gun and bent it a bit.


Yet to measure the volume, but guess it to be about 85 liters.

Sadly, I have now given myself a new job to sort, I disturbed the shower pan drain line, and now it leaks from through the sealant around the hose and the floor space.
Aggggg!!!!
Was to hook up by lunch time tomorrow and go away for the weekend.

 

[DaveR]

Yep, I left out that bit of detail.
There are 6 x breathers, this pic shows 1 in the large red circle, the 3 x small circles are locations of the other 3 in the fwd section.
The rear has 1 at the end of each of the 2 lines.
All 6 breathers are grouped together behind the wheel.

 

[DaveR]

I have a pic showing the 1/2" fittings, they are threaded and glued into the top of the pipe on the joints where it is at the thickest. I drilled and tapped a threaded with a metal fitting and then threaded in the plastic fittings with the glue.

 

[DaveR]

Shower leak!
I know none of you are gonna believe me, but..... as it is a Jayco I speak about.
The Skin Fitting which screws through the shower pan was not sealed, just lightly sitting in place, the lock nut below was lose and then a heap of sica type stuff applied.
My disturbing the hose allowed it to leak, or made it so I'd notice when looking for leaks..
I dug out all the sica stuff, removed the lose fitting, cleaned the shower pan top and bottom, used some white bathroom friendly sica, and re-fitted the skin fitting, then applied a 1/2 tube of black sica in the 2" hole to seal up the cavity from dust and water etc.
Now.
Good bit is, just waiting for the Mrs to get back with some groceries, then I'll load up and head of on my own the canungra and the family will arrive after school.
An arvo on my own in the position.
Cheers

 

[DaveR]

Grey water tank is a success. The volume of it is slightly larger then a fresh water tank.
Makes it easy to know volumes.
Had nil leaks.
Know have to fix the sink, it leaks into drawer below.

 

[bigcol]

so, how much weight all up was added with the tanks............?

has it cut much into your permissible payload?

 

[DaveR]

A good guess has the grey water tank and fixings at about 12 KGS.
The contents are from other tanks.
And total van weight?
Have you seen what's up front .
Gave up worrying about that. Although I do have an idea to fix some of the suspected weight, more to come soon, I hope.

 

[Eddii]

Great idea @DaveR was this setup cost effective compared to installing a grey water tank from BCF? Plus with your install is that you can work around the chassis