Solar The Solar Panel Thread

[Drover]

If you fit an Anderson on the side of the van wired directly to your batteries and make your extra panel portable it will be far more usable than any roof mounted one, though Sikaflex some channel onto the roof to mount your panel on is used often with good results (Use the Marine Adhesive version with proper preparation of both surfaces). The problem with Sikaflexing things to the roof/walls (using the marine adhesive) is you want to be sure they are positioned right the first time as you don't get a second chance if done correctly.

Use the proper lugs on your cable, solder and heat shrink them.

......................................................................Don't use these.....they won't carry the load well.




I have a 60w panel on the roof of my ute which trys to keep a 100ah wet cell deep cycle juiced up to run my 39 yr old Engel, it needs an extra 40w at least to do a good job but okay for picnics, if leaving it running for a few days I usually plug the portable in to give it a boost.

 

[Eddii]

Thanks again @Drover . 39 year old engel??????? and still going??? WOW!!!

 

[bigcol]

yeah, about the age of mine as well................... brought it off an Uncle 10 years ago

not a piccie of mine - but similar

 

[Drover]

Yep it's old and battered but still doing a good job, would have been running for about 9 mths of every year, travelled many a track in back of a 4by, trucks, unimogs and coaches, gets a blast with compressed air every now and then to clean dust out of the gear and I rebuilt the power socket about 10 years ago......steel with knobs and no fancy circuits, has outlasted many a modern unit.........................

 

[Boots in Action]

I'm in a process of adding a second battery in our van. I have a Ritar RA12-100 DG (Blue top) and considering adding a different brand same Amp-hour battery. My concern is that it may not charge at an even rate when connected together due to the difference internal resistance. Do I need to worry about this?

Hi @Eddii, the only concern would be if the extra battery was of different type. Gel with Gel is good, but Gel with AGM is not so good. Different charging and float voltage for AGM. Would work okay but Gel would tend to pull down higher voltage of AGM and float for Gel is .5 volt lower than recommended for AGM. Also, I believe that AGMs can charge faster and more robust than Gel in rate of charge and voltage. As both batteries are new, there should not be any problem with equalization of charge and storage capacity.

 

[Eddii]

@bigcol , @Drover Those are awesome fridges you got! I’m not sure my waeco will last that long though hahahaha.

 

[Eddii]

@Boots in Action, that was my concern. I realised I have a gel type when looking for a second battery. I ended up ringing Jayco and ordered another gel battery. They’re a bit more expensive than agm sealed lead acid (SLA)type. But I have no choice I suppose. What’s the big advantage of having a gel type then? They’re standard batteries for all Starcrafts, not sure about other Jayco vans though.

 

[Drover]

Thats the main thing they must be the same type, you don't mix the type, I have a GEL and wish I didn't other than being more costly they are harder to source, an AGM is like the old wet cell every corner store has them.........am thinking of Ebay for my second GEL even though it's a risk.

A GEL or AGM can be laid on their side and they will still work, they don't vent corrosive, explosive gases so can be used inside a room/cabin and they won't explode like a wet cell, they just get very hot and expand till they crack open and dribble hot goo everywhere.

 

[Boots in Action]

A GEL or AGM can be laid on their side and they will still work, they don't vent corrosive, explosive gases so can be used inside a room/cabin and they won't explode like a wet cell, they just get very hot and expand till they crack open and dribble hot goo everywhere

Hi @Drover , what did you do to have a Gel or AGM get so hot and crack casing?? I have had two AGMs which I have used successfully (but not in a van!!), one lasted me over 10 years (Odessy.) and another one ."Intimidator" which lasted nearly 9 years in my 1965 Valiant slant 6 car where there was no heat problem and plenty of space around battery. Never a sign of cracking or excessive heat, but then perhaps I was not pulling out 400 or 500 amps for long periods. The Odessy could deliver 1500 amps - that is enough to melt thick screwdrivers on a dead short!!! In fact, the Odessy was able to go from 100% DOD to 80% charged within 40 minutes using a 100 AMP charger and no significant heat build up or damage because of very low internal resistance.
I know that Gel and AGMs do not like heat and generally are not recommended for under bonnet use (although some are able to do so) where heat and lack of airflow (particularly in modern vehicles) does not do ANY type of battery any favours. Very interested in how you destroyed a very robust battery, particularly an AGM. I understand the greater chance with a Gel because overcharging with the wrong settings dries out the paste very quickly and would cause it to get hot.

 

[Boots in Action]

What’s the big advantage of having a gel type then? They’re standard batteries for all Starcrafts, not sure about other Jayco vans though.

Hi @Eddii , My Penguin was installed with a 120 ah AGM which I am very happy about. AGMs are NOW much more popular than Gel type so do not know why some vans are still fitted with same when they cost more, are more sensitive to misuse/abuse (charging) and cannot deliver as much current as an AGM when required. The Gel type is supposed to be better in providing a lesser current for a longer time over a wider ambient temperature range, so who knows??
The following link may help you understand the differences. Why Jayco and Starcraft persist with Gel when they can put in a "better"?? battery and save money is beyond my comprehension. Perhaps there is some contractual arrangements or maybe Gel battery is more suitable to the Setec charger in a lot of vans - only charges to 14.1 volts which is what a Gel battery requires, while an AGM requires 14.7 volts for optimum charging and capacity.

Gel vs AGM - BatteryStuff.com
https://www.batterystuff.com/kb/articles/battery-articles/gel-vs-agm.htm

Read and make your own decisions of "why is it so???"

 

[Drover]

I would say the reason for supplying a GEL would be a contracted price, cheaper price would win them every time..............

The Techo Battery bloke said it was just a internal short and it cooked itself, said it happens every now and then, of course it was just out of warranty, AGM no bashing around and stored in a cool well ventilated spot, the same solar controller that charges it's replacement for the last 2 years, so like a lot of things sometimes they just break all on their own...............

As for GEL v AGM it's really price, like those new things, name escapes me but they may be whiz bang but just too expensive, especially as most folks only use their van for maybe a month a year.

I have even wondered if I used some 6B&S and moved the engine battery out of the engine bay if the drop in temp would make my $300 starting battery last longer.....................just a thought as the stuffing around involved to move it under the tray is possibly not worth it, wouldn't have any noticeable loss as my truck had cable about 4mts long.

 

[mikerezny]

I have even wondered if I used some 6B&S and moved the engine battery out of the engine bay if the drop in temp would make my $300 starting battery last longer.....................just a thought as the stuffing around involved to move it under the tray is possibly not worth it, wouldn't have any noticeable loss as my truck had cable about 4mts long.

Hi @Drover,
you will probably want more than 6B&S to run the starter on a very cold morning.
Way back when. I rewired my FJ from 6V to 12V using mostly FC parts from the wreckers. No money and I didn't have a 12V battery to put in the engine compartment. But I did have two 6V batteries. But no room to fit both in the engine bay. So I put one in the boot. HUGE red wire to go between the batteries and wired the -VE of the battery in the boot to the chassis. Remember the old days when cars had a solid chassis.

Now, instead of moving the battery: What about directing incoming air around the battery, even perhaps insulating it from the engine heat?

cheers
Mike

 

[bigcol]

my GEL - Yellow Top Optima just fried itself
well, its blown a big bubble in the top of the battery - still sealed - just wont take a charge
3 years old..........

maybe heat
maybe crappy battery

who knows

 

[Drover]

Yep 6 B&S would be a bit small, old welding cable would be the go, battery is in an insulated shroud like all modern vehicles but no room to swing a cat...just a thought bubble anyway as couldn't be stuffed doing it......................My Colorado has a chassis...

Oh crap @bigcol you don't need that to happen, I'd blame this thread for it, hang on I brought that subject up somewhere...............





Ive gone to shed to watch cricket..................................bye

 

[bigcol]

Oh crap @bigcol you don't need that to happen

all good mate, have to get onto my mate at Westrac for another one

 

[mikerezny]

all good mate, have to get onto my mate at Westrac for another one

Hi @bigcol,
so how old was the battery before you got hold of it?

cheers
Mike

 

[bigcol]

all good mate, have to get onto my mate at Westrac for another one

new

brought it through "Staff Discount" arrangement

 

[mikerezny]

new

brought it through "Staff Discount" arrangement

Hi @bigcol,
damn. 3 years is not good.
Are you game to get another identical one?

cheers
Mike

 

[bigcol]

Hi @bigcol,
so how old was the battery before you got hold of it?

cheers
Mike

yes it was new
brought through "Staff Discount" arrangement

 

[Boots in Action]

my GEL - Yellow Top Optima just fried itself
well, its blown a big bubble in the top of the battery

Hi @bigcol , Optima yellow top is a quality battery and should have given years of service. Being Gel, there are constraints on charging algorithms, and over charging voltage and float are more critical than AGM type. See link provided on my previous posting and the warning therein. Go for an AGM next time perhaps?? Good luck.