Electrical Quiet Fridge Fan

NoWorries

Well-Known Member
Sep 28, 2015
806
1,344
93
Perth
www.expandasdownunder.com
Hi All

Someone posted here a while ago about putting in fridge fans that were almost quiet
I have a compressor fridge now and the cooling fan is a bit too noisy for my liking
rather than putting in a adjustable switch to slow it down I'm hoping to replace it with a quieter fan.
 

mikerezny

Well-Known Member
Sep 11, 2016
1,630
2,728
113
Mount Waverley, VIC
Hi,
not sure if the following is of any use.

I wanted a fan for a Dometic RM2350 3-way fridge.

I did a bit of hunting around for a quiet fan and eventually bought a 120 mm Gelid Silent 12 fan
from PC Case Gear in Melbourne. It cost $10.20, draws about 45mA, airflow is 37 CF/M, runs at 1000 RPM, and generates 20.2 dBA of noise. It has a 5 year warranty.

If nothing else, their website is useful for determining the balance between cost, expected life,
noise, and the airflow of various fans that might be worth considering.

As expected, the quiet fans usually run at a lower speed, usually shift less air
and will probably consume less power.

I haven't installed it yet, but I could not hear the fan running when I powered it up on my desk.

kindest regards
Mike
 
Last edited:
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WHHEMI

Well-Known Member
Jan 18, 2016
357
562
93
54
Yarra Valley
Hi All

Someone posted here a while ago about putting in fridge fans that were almost quiet
I have a compressor fridge now and the cooling fan is a bit too noisy for my liking
rather than putting in a adjustable switch to slow it down I'm hoping to replace it with a quieter fan.
Is it the fan you can hear or the compressor.
 
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Reactions: Dobbie

Crusty181

Well-Known Member
Feb 7, 2010
6,854
13,971
113
Mentone, VIC
Ive got 2 x "Be Quiet. Pure Wings, 120mm" fans behind my fridge. Low power consumption, huge air flow and as the name would suggest they are very quiet. Not cheap, but they look super dooper cool. (and that's important)
s-l300.jpg
 

Doc

Well-Known Member
May 2, 2016
158
313
63
Hobart, Australia
Ive got 2 x "Be Quiet. Pure Wings, 120mm" fans behind my fridge. Low power consumption, huge air flow and as the name would suggest they are very quiet. Not cheap, but they look super dooper cool. (and that's important)
s-l300.jpg
Mate, I'm going to buy one of these to sit on my desk at work! I don't need to plug it in, it just looks brilliant.
 

Mosue

New Member
Oct 14, 2016
25
23
3
56
Perth WA
Hi,
not sure if the following is of any use.

I wanted a fan for a Dometic RM2350 3-way fridge.

I did a bit of hunting around for a quiet fan and eventually bought a 120 mm Gelid Silent 12 fan
from PC Case Gear in Melbourne. It cost $10.20, draws about 45mA, airflow is 37 CF/M, runs at 1000 RPM, and generates 20.2 dBA of noise. It has a 5 year warranty.

If nothing else, their website is useful for determining the balance between cost, expected life,
noise, and the airflow of various fans that might be worth considering.

As expected, the quiet fans usually run at a lower speed, usually shift less air
and will probably consume less power.

I haven't installed it yet, but I could not hear the fan running when I powered it up on my desk.

kindest regards
Mike
Have you installed the fans yet?
Do they work and how did you fit them with a simple switch. I'd be interested to read what you did?
Cheers
 

mikerezny

Well-Known Member
Sep 11, 2016
1,630
2,728
113
Mount Waverley, VIC
Have you installed the fans yet?
Do they work and how did you fit them with a simple switch. I'd be interested to read what you did?
Cheers
Hi,
I initially installed a Gelid Silent 12 fan. To power it I ran a power lead from the ignition for the cooker.
On a Penguin the cooker is next to the fridge.
Then I used cable ties to mount a 55 degree C, normally open thermostat to the black pipe running from
the fridge boiler across the top of the condenser fins. Wired this in series with the power lead going to the fan.
Wired +12V to the fan, -12V to the thermostat and then to the fan. That way avoids any shorts to +12V if either
of the leads on the thermostat accidentally touch the condensor.

I got the thermostat on eBay from China. Otherwise, Jaycar have something similar, but not 55 C.

Then mounted the fan onto the top dometic fridge vent with 4 cable ties.

I found a fan splitter lead and used the socket so I could easily disconnect the fan when required.

This worked well, but not as well as I wanted on a couple of days close to 40. So, I initially intended
to add a second fan. Couldn't buy a Gelid any more, so opted for the Pure Wings 2.

The Gelid draws about 45 mA and the Pure Wings shifts about 40% more air but draws about 100mA.

I mounted the two fans but then noticed that the boiler vent was much cooler. So, with two fans,
air is being drawn from the hot boiler side of the fridge, some of which will be across the condenser fins.
Not what I wanted.

So, I took out the Gelid fan and just kept the higher airflow Pure Wings. Now the boiler vent is hot again and the fridge is working well again.

That is the current set up. But my next plan is to add a divider between the boiler side of the fridge and the condenser side of the fridge. For efficient operation, the boiler should be hot and the condenser fins should be cool. I have some thin flexible aluminum flashing they use on house roofs.

Continuing, on getting the fridge working efficiently: Bought a dual inside / outside digital thermometer and mounted the external probe inside the fridge. It is hard to work out what is happening with the fridge if you cannot measure the temperature!

Then filled in the gap on the left hand side (looking from the back) to stop the warm air at the back mixing with the cool air on the side of the fridge. Jayco put some fibreglass wool on the top of the top of the fridge.

Now to the boiler side. The fridge is mounted close to the wall but there is a small gap around 1/4 to 3/8 ". But that is only part of the problem. The boiler tube is hot and heats up the cabinet wood at the top and the side. This conducts heat through the wood to the top and side of the fridge. This heat is quite noticeable and will be heating up that side and top of the fridge.

Found some aluminium-backed polyester roof insulation (about 25mm thick). I have put this down the gap between the boiler and the wall, ensuring that it wraps around the gap between the fridge and the wall. Then another piece across the top and back of the fridge around the boiler area. It is a bit fiddly and needs some patience. Fortunately the insulation is very flexible.
Note, I kept the aluminum side towards the boiler. Also, don't try to use screws since the polyester will wrap around the thread.

Only did this last week, and will only get to try it out when we head off next week.

Another big improvement was to reduce teh amount of air loss from the fridge when the door is opened. We have a Dometic 2350 9-l fridge. We added a plastic tray from KMart that makes a perfect crisper for the bottom shelf and we have 4 other plastic containers that fill the other two shelves. They stay in unless they get in the way. So basically, when we start out, the top two shelves are full and no trays are needed, we then just have the crisper full of vegetables . As we use food, we add the trays (lids on) to the empty areas on the shelves.
This works really well and greatly improved the fridge recovery time when we open the fridge, especially at lunch time.

I hope this helps. Otherwise, I am happy to give more information.

kindest regards
Mike
 
Last edited:

Mosue

New Member
Oct 14, 2016
25
23
3
56
Perth WA
Hi,
I initially installed a Gelid Silent 12 fan. To power it I ran a power lead from the ignition for the cooker.
On a Penguin the cooker is next to the fridge.
Then I used cable ties to mount a 55 degree C, normally open thermostat to the black pipe running from
the fridge boiler across the top of the condenser fins. Wired this in series with the power lead going to the fan.
Wired +12V to the fan, -12V to the thermostat and then to the fan. That way avoids any shorts to +12V if either
of the leads on the thermostat accidentally touch the condensor.

I got the thermostat on eBay from China. Otherwise, Jaycar have something similar, but not 55 C.

Then mounted the fan onto the top dometic fridge vent with 4 cable ties.

I found a fan splitter lead and used the socket so I could easily disconnect the fan when required.

This worked well, but not as well as I wanted on a couple of days close to 40. So, I initially intended
to add a second fan. Couldn't buy a Gelid any more, so opted for the Pure Wings 2.

The Gelid draws about 45 mA and the Pure Wings shifts about 40% more air but draws about 100mA.

I mounted the two fans but then noticed that the boiler vent was much cooler. So, with two fans,
air is being drawn from the hot boiler side of the fridge, some of which will be across the condenser fins.
Not what I wanted.

So, I took out the Gelid fan and just kept the higher airflow Pure Wings. Now the boiler vent is hot again and the fridge is working well again.

That is the current set up. But my next plan is to add a divider between the boiler side of the fridge and the condenser side of the fridge. For efficient operation, the boiler should be hot and the condenser fins should be cool. I have some thin flexible aluminum flashing they use on house roofs.

Continuing, on getting the fridge working efficiently: Bought a dual inside / outside digital thermometer and mounted the external probe inside the fridge. It is hard to work out what is happening with the fridge if you cannot measure the temperature!

Then filled in the gap on the left hand side (looking from the back) to stop the warm air at the back mixing with the cool air on the side of the fridge. Jayco put some fibreglass wool on the top of the top of the fridge.

Now to the boiler side. The fridge is mounted close to the wall but there is a small gap around 1/4 to 3/8 ". But that is only part of the problem. The boiler tube is hot and heats up the cabinet wood at the top and the side. This conducts heat through the wood to the top and side of the fridge. This heat is quite noticeable and will be heating up that side and top of the fridge.

Found some aluminium-backed polyester roof insulation (about 25mm thick). I have put this down the gap between the boiler and the wall, ensuring that it wraps around the gap between the fridge and the wall. Then another piece across the top and back of the fridge around the boiler area. It is a bit fiddly and needs some patience. Fortunately the insulation is very flexible.
Note, I kept the aluminum side towards the boiler. Also, don't try to use screws since the polyester will wrap around the thread.

Only did this last week, and will only get to try it out when we head off next week.

Another big improvement was to reduce teh amount of air loss from the fridge when the door is opened. We have a Dometic 2350 9-l fridge. We added a plastic tray from KMart that makes a perfect crisper for the bottom shelf and we have 4 other plastic containers that fill the other two shelves. They stay in unless they get in the way. So basically, when we start out, the top two shelves are full and no trays are needed, we then just have the crisper full of vegetables . As we use food, we add the trays (lids on) to the empty areas on the shelves.
This works really well and greatly improved the fridge recovery time when we open the fridge, especially at lunch time.

I hope this helps. Otherwise, I am happy to give more information.

kindest regards
Mike
Thanks for the reply Mike!- When I finish my swing offshore I'll get into looking into the fans. All the other info is appreciated as well-cheers!