Info on installing battery 16.49.2

[DaveS]

Just reading this informative post and I have a question. @boots33 posted a wiring diagram which I can follow and am I correct in saying that the positive power side goes through a switch (battery switch) before connecting to the setec unit. It just seems that in a big van if you were running lights and stereos at the same time it would be a bit of current going through that switch which just seems to be a normal light switch. I thought the battery switch would be more substantial.

Cheers Geoff

Depends on the switch ...... purchase a DC switch rated to at least 30 amps and your fine. there is a bit of a drama using a AC switch on DC circuits as the airgap in the switch can be too small and it can arc across the switch, so stay with a rated DC switch. On saying that the new seteks use a remote switch that doesn't carry the load, so it can be a lot smaller with thinner wires

 

[boots33]

It just seems that in a big van if you were running lights and stereos at the same time it would be a bit of current going through that switch which just seems to be a normal light switch. I thought the battery switch would be more substantial.

Cheers Geoff

The switch does look very much like a normal light switch. They do make that style of switch in higher ratings as well, as used for Hob and hotplates etc.

As dave points out a DC rated switch is best and should be rated higher than 20A for the st20 and higher than 30A for the st35 . The new series 3 setec's also give you the option of a lighter rated remote mount switch as well.

Lights, if you have led's draw very little and the average modest van stereo is usually less than a few amps (unless your into the doofa doofa scene ) any serious draw... inverters etc. should be wired directly to the battery and not through the setec. @DaveS do you know the approximate date that the series 3 units started to be used.

 

[DaveS]

nah can't remember somewhere about mid last year

 

[macca]

I think late 2012. Series 3 has remote battery switch connections, Series 2 does not. That's what I have discovered.

I don't have led's yet but I will in a few months when the mods begin.

 

[rudagath]

Hi all, I'm new here and am about to do this install. Just want to confirm, that if I install the battery, my lights will work when the power is not connected ? Am I on the right track here ?

Thanks

 

[chartrock]

Yes, on the right track. What wiring is already installed?

 

[rudagath]

Basically nothing. I have the st20 and no wires connected to the battery connectors on the unit. So I am going to do the install that has been described here including the switch. Do you need to add the inline fuse as you already have a blade fuse on the unit ? Also I take it the meter is an added extra that you don't need ? Ta

 

[boots33]

The blade fuse is there to protect the setec but it will not protect the wire coming from the battery. If for some reason that wire develops a short it will have the full power of the battery to deal with..... the result will most definitely be disastrous . I know it will only be a short run and unlikely to be in danger of shorting but you have to account for things like road accidents as well. Fit the fuse it is very cheap protection.

 

[rudagath]

Thanks, will do. Am buying everything today and then will start.

 

[boots33]

On re-reading my earlier posts I see i have said to place the inline fuse as close as possible to the battery. While this is still true you should not have the fuse inside the battery box as it could be a source of ignition.

 

[cruza driver]

On re-reading my earlier posts I see i have said to place the inline fuse as close as possible to the battery. While this is still true you should not have the fuse inside the battery box as it could be a source of ignition.

More great information @boots33 I sure learn something through your posts :rockon:

 

[rudagath]

So the install is complete. I ended up buying a battery box with a built in 20amp circuit breaker and battery tester. I have installed it under the sink on the bottom, right over the axel for weight distribution purposes. The switch is mounted above the sink next to the power point and antenna booster point. This was done so that it wasn't at floor level and also at an accessible height. All the wires have been chased through the walls and under the seats along with the current electrical loom for neatness. I ended up going red for positive and black for negative, simply for the fact of battery connection to the battery box. I was able to purchase a AGM 100Ah battery fairly cheaply and the whole system is working perfectly. Pictures to follow. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[boots33]

Good to hear it all went well. it will make off grid stays far more civilised.... of course if you have not already got LED's fitted to your lights you will no doubt be looking at that next.... one mod always seems to lead to the next

yes please post some pics, we are all a bit tragic here when it comes to looking at other peoples mods

 

[boots33]

More great information @boots33 I sure learn something through your posts :rockon:

yeah I have changed the original post as well now. Not a huge risk with gel or agm batteries but still best to play it safe.

 

[rudagath]

Picture time. I have modified the box a little for ease of getting the battery in and out as required. As it's an AGM battery it doesn't need to be fully enclosed in a battery box but has been secured in place.

 

[Stuey_85]

You will need to gain access to the rear of your St20 to connect the wires, depending on your expanda model you may have to take out a few screws to get at it. Some models have them so as you can get to the wiring without removing the st20, on my 14 it is mounted below the fridge so have to pull it out to get access. Yes the blade fuse marked Batt is the main fuse that connects to your battery, on your ST20 it should be a yellow 20A fuse. If you don't have a fuse in it you will have to fit one when you install the battery. Have a look at the block diagram bellow to get an idea of how it all connects.
View attachment 7738
As you can see the positive connection goes through a 20A inline fuse then on to the main Battery switch and finally connects to the "BAT +VE" terminal on your ST20. The inline fuse should be as close to the battery as you can get it but not inside the battery box. The negative wire connects strait from the battery negative to the "BAT -VE" terminal on the ST20.

If you have to remove the ST20.....

First make sure you don't have 240v power connected to the van.

Remove the one screw where the fuses are located. Then remove the complete plastic front panel. It is held on by six clips, three on the top and three on the bottom. The easiest way is to push up on the bottom of the panel with you hands until it unclips at the top and then move it down to detach the bottom clips. Take care you don't bend the blade fuses when removing the panel.

View attachment 7734.......................View attachment 7735

Whith the front panel removed you now just have to remove the four corner screws and slide the ST20 out. The ST20 is quite heavy so have an old towel or similar to rest it on so as not to damage the floor. You can see clearly in the last pic where the wires will connect to. For the ST20 6mm twin sheathed cable should be fine for the short distance you will need to run. In the pic above right you can see the main battery switch that Jayco use.

View attachment 7736........................View attachment 7737

You can see you must use covered crimp terminals to connect to the ST20 as there isn't a lot of room where they connect in. you will also need a set of crimp pliers to make sure you get a good connection.

Hey boots once I connect the battery to those terminals

You will need to gain access to the rear of your St20 to connect the wires, depending on your expanda model you may have to take out a few screws to get at it. Some models have them so as you can get to the wiring without removing the st20, on my 14 it is mounted below the fridge so have to pull it out to get access. Yes the blade fuse marked Batt is the main fuse that connects to your battery, on your ST20 it should be a yellow 20A fuse. If you don't have a fuse in it you will have to fit one when you install the battery. Have a look at the block diagram bellow to get an idea of how it all connects.
View attachment 7738
As you can see the positive connection goes through a 20A inline fuse then on to the main Battery switch and finally connects to the "BAT +VE" terminal on your ST20. The inline fuse should be as close to the battery as you can get it but not inside the battery box. The negative wire connects strait from the battery negative to the "BAT -VE" terminal on the ST20.

If you have to remove the ST20.....

First make sure you don't have 240v power connected to the van.

Remove the one screw where the fuses are located. Then remove the complete plastic front panel. It is held on by six clips, three on the top and three on the bottom. The easiest way is to push up on the bottom of the panel with you hands until it unclips at the top and then move it down to detach the bottom clips. Take care you don't bend the blade fuses when removing the panel.

View attachment 7734.......................View attachment 7735

Whith the front panel removed you now just have to remove the four corner screws and slide the ST20 out. The ST20 is quite heavy so have an old towel or similar to rest it on so as not to damage the floor. You can see clearly in the last pic where the wires will connect to. For the ST20 6mm twin sheathed cable should be fine for the short distance you will need to run. In the pic above right you can see the main battery switch that Jayco use.

View attachment 7736........................View attachment 7737

You can see you must use covered crimp terminals to connect to the ST20 as there isn't a lot of room where they connect in. you will also need a set of crimp pliers to make sure you get a good connection.

Hi boots once I connect the battery to those terminals when I plug the van in on 240v will it charge also or do i need to isolate the battery an turn 240v on