Goodies 2014 Prado GLX Diesel Build Up
- Thread starter The Goodwins
- Start date
Apologies for a slight hijack on the thread @The Goodwins, @yabbietol I am interested to know more on the hesitations about using a WDH. We have a HR one and am very comfortable with it as can see it lift the car back up and certainly puts the "feeling" back into the steering. We only have a light van compared to others here. I am not defending or anything, just my thoughts so far. I have only towed on-road with them, but am planning a decent trip in a couple of years and dirt roads will be a good portion of the trip. What issues can happen? I am curious as we are looking at changing our tug to a new Prado in 2 years time so will need to look at what needs to be done/changed when we do.
Thanks
BJ.
These are the WDH problems I am aware off:
Basically WDH re-distribute load they do not eliminate it. So therefore, if you stress the tow vehicle by going over bumps and potholes you move the stress from the high strength (and rated) towing hitch via the attachment points, to other parts of the tow vehicle body that may not be designed to take the transferred (often shock) loads. So WDH generally work well on smooth surfaces, but can cause damage on irregular services. It is often recommend that a WDH be disconnected when driving on rough services.
A classic trap in rural areas are cattle grids which are often elevated and so as the tow and van cross them (often too quickly) the grid then may cause major damage to body and chassis of the both tow and van. Also steep dips can be another trap for the same reasons, but he forces act in the opposite direction to grids. These and other similar obstacles are why Treg and Mchitch are popular with off road tow (see the Gall Boys video on the Mchitch web site). These off road hitches allow a much more even distribution of forces (than a conventional ball hitch) and more freedom of movement when tow and van are at significantly different angles.
Another significant problem with WDH they often reduce the turing radius of tow and van, so going around tight corners and roundabouts can become interesting. Also often the WDH in a tight turn can gouge the road surface and again place stress on the tow and van. On standard height vans WDH can also significantly reduce the ground clearance of the A frame to a dangerously low level, especially with steep gutters and drains.
WDH work, but should be used within their limitations. The lighter and better balanced the van the less load WDH need to redistribute and they of course help to keep the front wheels of the tow in better contact with the ground and the tow level (which is a very good thing). WDH are a classic case of an old technology that works in well many situations, but not all.
I am sure others on this forum could explain some of this better, but this is the best I can do in a reasonable length post.
Hope this helps.
Regards
Terry
Last edited:
Thanks Terry (@yabbietol )
Appreciate the reply. Will have to do some investigations. I agree with the turning circle as ours bent the safety chains where they are welded on to the a-frame. Gives food for thought.
BJ.
Appreciate the reply. Will have to do some investigations. I agree with the turning circle as ours bent the safety chains where they are welded on to the a-frame. Gives food for thought.
BJ.
@yabbietol an excellant post, well explained. Thats partly why I have a Trigg hitch with upgraded springs on my Jeep, since it doesn't have a chassis as such and once had tow bar mount point issues due to incorrect instalation. While my panda isn't quite 2 ton the Jeep hardly drops when I hook up, no need for a WDH thankfully. QLD rural highways are not a problem.
sweet as bro - sitting outside in the rain at the moment, I was looking at things that need doing yesterday
and its pi$$ing down today..........
so tell me - does your 150 feel like it wants to go where it wants to and not where your pointing it?
I was driving one earlier tis year, and it felt very unstable on the Hwy at 110Kms on bends.........
wasn't sure if its the Playdoh or the tyres that were on it....
curious.........
and its pi$$ing down today..........
so tell me - does your 150 feel like it wants to go where it wants to and not where your pointing it?
I was driving one earlier tis year, and it felt very unstable on the Hwy at 110Kms on bends.........
wasn't sure if its the Playdoh or the tyres that were on it....
curious.........
All good BC but remember its my second so I am used to any little nuances they have. Its the brand new audio system I cant work out!
More paving and parking pics please!
paving finished - for the moment - run out of folding stuff........
have to get a job now so I can afford to do the rest........
got to get a skip bin in (they all seem to be related to Ned Kelly you know............) then once THAT area is cleared, then I can get the rest of the paving done on that side of the house
then I have to build a shed to hide all my tools and crap into
never ending - just slow - need coin..........
have to get a job now so I can afford to do the rest........
got to get a skip bin in (they all seem to be related to Ned Kelly you know............) then once THAT area is cleared, then I can get the rest of the paving done on that side of the house
then I have to build a shed to hide all my tools and crap into
never ending - just slow - need coin..........
????????????
a radio is a radio is a radio................
whats the problemo with them?
did you not see the ones on my Van build up page??????
http://www.expandasdownunder.com/threads/bigcols-16-49-1-hl-ob-13ex.4346/page-2
down near the bottom of the page.......
So the second battery is in.
I was quoted $2200 for the full set up.
Here is my step by step for doing it myself (With my trusted auto electrician doing the connections)
Tray
Tray and 85Ah battery fitted. Had to move the bolt for the aircon piping but the tray has a specific mount and excellent instructions.
I would have liked the battery tie down to be more flexible and better set up.
The tray is grey hammer coat and comes with the bolts to attach it to the already set up holes in the engine bay. It indicates that you can drill a hole and screw it to the side. I have spoken to a mate who has done this a few times and the 5 bolts provided to screw to the base are more than sufficient.
OK purchases as follows so far;
Tray purchased off FleaBay was $152
85Ah Deep cycle Battery from a local provider $178
From this I take the sale of the previous deep cycle and box I had for $162. so at this point out of pocket is $168.
Next purchase (Next Pay) is the Ctek D250s management unit projected cost is $254.
![D250S%20DUAL_0[1].jpg](https://www.expandasdownunder.com/attachments/d250s-20dual_0-1-jpg.26241/ "D250S%20DUAL_0[1].jpg")
I was quoted $2200 for the full set up.
Here is my step by step for doing it myself (With my trusted auto electrician doing the connections)
Tray
Tray and 85Ah battery fitted. Had to move the bolt for the aircon piping but the tray has a specific mount and excellent instructions.
I would have liked the battery tie down to be more flexible and better set up.
The tray is grey hammer coat and comes with the bolts to attach it to the already set up holes in the engine bay. It indicates that you can drill a hole and screw it to the side. I have spoken to a mate who has done this a few times and the 5 bolts provided to screw to the base are more than sufficient.
OK purchases as follows so far;
Tray purchased off FleaBay was $152
85Ah Deep cycle Battery from a local provider $178
From this I take the sale of the previous deep cycle and box I had for $162. so at this point out of pocket is $168.
Next purchase (Next Pay) is the Ctek D250s management unit projected cost is $254.
Here we go this is the crowd mate
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Push-swi...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19f1a8903e
@Simon the crowd is called Air on Board at Fleabay. Here is the compressor button page;
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Push-swi...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4627c0eaed
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Push-swi...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4627c0eaed
So the Ctek and D250s and plugs have arrived and I have done a bit of a set out and installed the plugs in the rear of the vehicle.
I elected to place the pugs directly onto the cover of a side storage area that is basically useless. I also elected notto use the faceplate the plugs came with to give a neater finish.
The plugs are from left to right;
Voltage meter
Cigarette Plug
Dual USB plug
Its also a LOT easier to be able to remove the door to cut holes and in the future gain access if there is an issue.
Fitted to the vehicle
Note below the bay door is the door containing the jack. This is also the path which takes the electric brake controller wiring to the rear of the vehicle. A hole drilled through the top of this bay will be the path of the plug wiring.
Under the bonnet is the layout of the battery charger and where the cabling will go.
The charger will sit on top of the fuse box bolted to it with play to allow access. The fasteners on the Ctek unit allow for easy removal as well if required. and it will link to the second battery.
Sorry about the picture quality.
I elected to place the pugs directly onto the cover of a side storage area that is basically useless. I also elected notto use the faceplate the plugs came with to give a neater finish.
The plugs are from left to right;
Voltage meter
Cigarette Plug
Dual USB plug
Its also a LOT easier to be able to remove the door to cut holes and in the future gain access if there is an issue.
Fitted to the vehicle
Note below the bay door is the door containing the jack. This is also the path which takes the electric brake controller wiring to the rear of the vehicle. A hole drilled through the top of this bay will be the path of the plug wiring.
Under the bonnet is the layout of the battery charger and where the cabling will go.
The charger will sit on top of the fuse box bolted to it with play to allow access. The fasteners on the Ctek unit allow for easy removal as well if required. and it will link to the second battery.
Sorry about the picture quality.
So on to the nuts and bolts…..or costing.
Original Quote from TJM (ARB same) $2,200.00
My Cost
Battery Tray- $154.00
85Ah Deep cycle- $178.00
Ctek 250s Charger- $254.00
3 x Plug unit total- $19.95
Cabling- $50.00
Auto Electrician- $160.00 (Quote)
Less sale of original Battery Box & Battery $178.00
Total Spend- $637.95
Bit of a difference to $2,200.00
Original Quote from TJM (ARB same) $2,200.00
My Cost
Battery Tray- $154.00
85Ah Deep cycle- $178.00
Ctek 250s Charger- $254.00
3 x Plug unit total- $19.95
Cabling- $50.00
Auto Electrician- $160.00 (Quote)
Less sale of original Battery Box & Battery $178.00
Total Spend- $637.95
Bit of a difference to $2,200.00
Very nice but you would have got an ARB sticker if they had done it................................