Fridge stopped working

[garfield28]

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone might know what's happened here.

Woke up this morning and our power had tripped for some reason, not sure why maybe it was the fridge that tripped it, but reset the breaker in the van and now the fridge will not work. Tried turning it on again on 240V AC, no good, so then tried getting it going on gas and couldn't get it to work on the either.

Any thoughts..?

If she's stuffed (I hope it's not) as I think it might be what would people recommend I replace it with, another 3 way or go a compressor fridge?

Any advice much appreciated

Thanks

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi all,

Just wondering if anyone might know what's happened here.

Woke up this morning and our power had tripped for some reason, not sure why maybe it was the fridge that tripped it, but reset the breaker in the van and now the fridge will not work. Tried turning it on again on 240V AC, no good, so then tried getting it going on gas and couldn't get it to work on the either.

Any thoughts..?

If she's stuffed (I hope it's not) as I think it might be what would people recommend I replace it with, another 3 way or go a compressor fridge?

Any advice much appreciated

Thanks

Hello @garfield28 , Happy New Year!! I doubt it would be the fridge itself, more like the control board that @Bluey has had fail. @Drover has written a good report on this problem with fridges with AES connection. Have a bit of a look back at the posts of only a week or so ago. I think the replacement cost of a new control board for @Bluey's Thetford fridge was around the $340.00 mark, a bit of a hit but cheaper than doing a changeover to a compressor fridge. IMHO, go for a compressor fridge only if you are going to upgrade battery storage and/or change to lithium system, which is a whole new ball game! Lithium battery/ies, Lithium charging and battery control system, a suitable or compatible solar control charging system, and the necessity to install a BC to DC charger between tug and van if you intend to charge lithium van battery on the move. A lot of loot to do it properly. Although AGM battery storage can do the job if you change to compressor fridge you still need to rely on good solar energy to keep power to compressor fridge, which becomes a priority if the sun is not kind to you. If your fridge just needs a new board, I would be inclined to stick with what you have at the moment, even if it is nowhere near as good as a lithium powered compressor fridge set up. It is YOUR money, so tread your own path!!! Good luck.

 

[jazzeddie1234]

Also check all the obvious things. Is the 12v fuse to the board ok and is it getting 12v from the setec/battery as nothing works without this on. If it's a thetford then reading errors codes might help

 

[garfield28]

Hello @garfield28 , Happy New Year!! I doubt it would be the fridge itself, more like the control board that @Bluey has had fail. @Drover has written a good report on this problem with fridges with AES connection. Have a bit of a look back at the posts of only a week or so ago. I think the replacement cost of a new control board for @Bluey's Thetford fridge was around the $340.00 mark, a bit of a hit but cheaper than doing a changeover to a compressor fridge. IMHO, go for a compressor fridge only if you are going to upgrade battery storage and/or change to lithium system, which is a whole new ball game! Lithium battery/ies, Lithium charging and battery control system, a suitable or compatible solar control charging system, and the necessity to install a BC to DC charger between tug and van if you intend to charge lithium van battery on the move. A lot of loot to do it properly. Although AGM battery storage can do the job if you change to compressor fridge you still need to rely on good solar energy to keep power to compressor fridge, which becomes a priority if the sun is not kind to you. If your fridge just needs a new board, I would be inclined to stick with what you have at the moment, even if it is nowhere near as good as a lithium powered compressor fridge set up. It is YOUR money, so tread your own path!!! Good luck.

Thanks for the reply Boots.

Not made of money so would much rather sticking with what we have, and to be honest hasn't given us any dramas until this, and I love operating it on gas when not on a powered spot.

I forgot to add that I actually washed the van a few days before going away and I didn't cover the vents so dare say water got in there, I hope that hasn't caused it.

 

[garfield28]

Also check all the obvious things. Is the 12v fuse to the board ok and is it getting 12v from the setec/battery as nothing works without this on. If it's a thetford then reading errors codes might help

Thanks for the reply jazzeddie.

I did check the fuse in the setec and the fuse was good, is there another fuse in behind the fridge do you know?

Mine is actually a dometic fridge and my Expanda is a 2010 model too.

 

[jazzeddie1234]

Which model? My jayco / thetford had an inline fuse in the loom at the back of the fridge. Are there any lights on the fridge? If so then it's getting the 12v supply.

 

[jazzeddie1234]

Also some dometics have a reset-able safety thing on the chimney just above the burner. 2 wires going to a round thing with a push button in the centre

 

[Boots in Action]

Also some dometics have a reset-able safety thing on the chimney just above the burner. 2 wires going to a round thing with a push button in the centre

Yes @jazzeddie1234 , that is a thermal overheat senser. Normally only trips out if too much heat on burner/heater area caused by being too much off level. Possible, but I would put my money on some of the other things as unable to work on 240v and fails to ignite on gas. It also appears that it was operating okay before tripping out for some unknown reason and now fails to operate in any mode - 240v or gas.
One assumes @garfield28's 3 way fridge has an AES system. @garfield28 , can you provide more info on model and also year of manufacture.??

 

[garfield28]

Which model? My jayco / thetford had an inline fuse in the loom at the back of the fridge. Are there any lights on the fridge? If so then it's getting the 12v supply.

Ours is the 16.49-2, no lights on my fridge unfortunately, it's the model that pretty much has the same wallpaper stuff on the fridge so it matches the interior, and no LED or digital display panel on this fridge.

 

[garfield28]

Also some dometics have a reset-able safety thing on the chimney just above the burner. 2 wires going to a round thing with a push button in the centre

I'll have to suss that out tomorrow. We are leaving tomorrow so will probably try and have a look at everything when I get her home and unpacked.

Luckily had the 65l fridge for my beers and drinks, so cleared room in that to store all of the perishables in there.

 

[garfield28]

Yes @jazzeddie1234 , that is a thermal overheat senser. Normally only trips out if too much heat on burner/heater area caused by being too much off level. Possible, but I would put my money on some of the other things as unable to work on 240v and fails to ignite on gas. It also appears that it was operating okay before tripping out for some unknown reason and now fails to operate in any mode - 240v or gas.
One assumes @garfield28's 3 way fridge has an AES system. @garfield28 , can you provide more info on model and also year of manufacture.??

Yeah was working fine and then the power was tripped when we woke in the morning so not sure how long it had been tripped for, and can only assume something to do with the fridge but not 100% sure.

Will report back the model number Boots

Thanks guys

 

[Drover]

OH fridges are always fun, while you were tapping a key board I was playing with a zero turn mower that broke on me ..................... Firstly model of the fridge is most important, the fellas have covered most of it but really need to model for specific problem sorting...... As Boots said an earlier post last week or so we did a blind mans test to try an isolate things, so start at the power point and work back to the fridge. can give a tighter run down when the model number is given, you should find it on label inside the door....
So Model number is a must..........

agree with Boots, a Compressor fridge does require a battery storage upgrade, at least 120ah just to cover the fridge, thats why I stayed with a 3 way when I mine died ..... Mine now works as good as a compressor with my upgraded insulation solution......

 

[garfield28]

The model number for my fridge is a Dometic - RM2553

 

[garfield28]

OH fridges are always fun, while you were tapping a key board I was playing with a zero turn mower that broke on me ..................... Firstly model of the fridge is most important, the fellas have covered most of it but really need to model for specific problem sorting...... As Boots said an earlier post last week or so we did a blind mans test to try an isolate things, so start at the power point and work back to the fridge. can give a tighter run down when the model number is given, you should find it on label inside the door....
So Model number is a must..........

agree with Boots, a Compressor fridge does require a battery storage upgrade, at least 120ah just to cover the fridge, thats why I stayed with a 3 way when I mine died ..... Mine now works as good as a compressor with my upgraded insulation solution......

Have just put the model number Drover, thanks for the reply.

I'd really love to keep this fridge not too keen to spend a little under 3k for another fridge this one had been working fine, and extremely well on gas, so ideally would love to keep the one I've got.

Have just got home, will unpack everything, clean the fridge and try and see if I can get it going today.

 

[Boots in Action]

The model number for my fridge is a Dometic - RM2553

Aha @garfield28, now we are getting places. The Dometic RM2553 is a simple fridge - no fancy energy auto systems!! The three energy sources are 240v AC, 12 volt DC and Gas (with manual ignition,) all of which are manually selectable. IF and a very important IF, the fridge did cause the power to trip out, whilst operating on 240v AC, then that could be caused by a failed (burnt out?) heating element. But it should still work on GAS or 12 volt DC. First thing is to CONFIRM that it was in fact the fridge that caused the power to trip. If all other 240v appliances do work, we can then point to the fridge as the culprit. No 240v AC power to fridge which could be as simple as a blown fuse - good chance if 240v heating element shorted out. Then the next possibility as to why no gas operation could be no gas to burner for igniter to light gas. Was gas turned on?? Also does the piezo igniter create a spark - need to check that at back of fridge while someone pushes the button down a few times. I have had to carefully clean the tip of igniter for a friend to get a decent spark. You don't need to have gas on to do this. You can also have someone hold down the gas switch and you can smell and also just feel the gas flow at the burner if you wet your finger. NO NAKED FLAME OR IGNITION SOURCE UNTIL ALL GAS HAS BEEN DISPERSED!! After that we need to look at the selector switch contacts, which means moving fridge forward to gain access.
I have DELIBERATELY not mentioned anything about checking the 240 volt supply with a multimeter as I am not aware of your knowledge or ability to SAFELY use that equipment.
So hopefully, it does not get to that stage where you need that sort of help. It may be that there is a problem with the 240v supply. Do any or all of the 240v outlets work when connected to grid power?? More staged help will be forthcoming as you check through your findings and eliminate/expose any faults. There is sure to be lots of help available from members. Good luck and keep us all informed.

 

[garfield28]

Aha @garfield28, now we are getting places. The Dometic RM2553 is a simple fridge - no fancy energy auto systems!! The three energy sources are 240v AC, 12 volt DC and Gas (with manual ignition,) all of which are manually selectable. IF and a very important IF, the fridge did cause the power to trip out, whilst operating on 240v AC, then that could be caused by a failed (burnt out?) heating element. But it should still work on GAS or 12 volt DC. First thing is to CONFIRM that it was in fact the fridge that caused the power to trip. If all other 240v appliances do work, we can then point to the fridge as the culprit. No 240v AC power to fridge which could be as simple as a blown fuse - good chance if 240v heating element shorted out. Then the next possibility as to why no gas operation could be no gas to burner for igniter to light gas. Was gas turned on?? Also does the piezo igniter create a spark - need to check that at back of fridge while someone pushes the button down a few times. I have had to carefully clean the tip of igniter for a friend to get a decent spark. You don't need to have gas on to do this. You can also have someone hold down the gas switch and you can smell and also just feel the gas flow at the burner if you wet your finger. NO NAKED FLAME OR IGNITION SOURCE UNTIL ALL GAS HAS BEEN DISPERSED!! After that we need to look at the selector switch contacts, which means moving fridge forward to gain access.
I have DELIBERATELY not mentioned anything about checking the 240 volt supply with a multimeter as I am not aware of your knowledge or ability to SAFELY use that equipment.
So hopefully, it does not get to that stage where you need that sort of help. It may be that there is a problem with the 240v supply. Do any or all of the 240v outlets work when connected to grid power?? More staged help will be forthcoming as you check through your findings and eliminate/expose any faults. There is sure to be lots of help available from members. Good luck and keep us all informed.

Thanks Boots, will give all of that a crack. Just got to clean a few things and dry some other out and will have a go at that, and also try turning it on again both on 240v and have another crack at the gas too.

When we woke up there was no power through the whole van, I thought maybe my 10a power board out the front might have tripped the power because I had my kids out the front in swags and I connected up an extension cord so they could have a fan each and also power up there phones, but the board has an overload trip inbuilt and it didn't gone off from memory so can only assume it was the fridge that tripped, because it was the actual breaker that had tripped as since that time the fridge hasn't worked.

 

[Boots in Action]

Thanks Boots, will give all of that a crack. Just got to clean a few things and dry some other out and will have a go at that, and also try turning it on again both on 240v and have another crack at the gas too.

When we woke up there was no power through the whole van, I thought maybe my 10a power board out the front might have tripped the power because I had my kids out the front in swags and I connected up an extension cord so they could have a fan each and also power up there phones, but the board has an overload trip inbuilt and it didn't gone off from memory so can only assume it was the fridge that tripped, because it was the actual breaker that had tripped as since that time the fridge hasn't worked.

@garfield28, you now state that "there was no power through the whole van". The only electrical system that can do that is the RCD in your van AND the RCD in the power box for your connection whilst on park grid. Please confirm that you now have 240v power available to outlets in your van since you reset the safety switch. Include a test of the power inlet socket for fridge with a known operating fan or similar. If still no 240v power, suggest you try turning the RCD switch ON and OFF a few times with the 240v system connected to your van. Sometimes they do not make the full connection when you reset.
If still no joy, I would try as @Drover suggested. Connect a known good extension lead from a known operating 240v socket in house direct to the 240v power inlet cord for van fridge. If an electrical fault, your house RCD will trip - unlikely as has not tripped out since resetting? If power to fridge and no operate on 240v, then most likely 240v heating element burnt out. Still try gas to confirm switching mechanism is functioning properly making sure gas is available and turned ON. With those areas confirmed and fridge operating on gas, a 240v fault exists. Some easy tests to try when you have a chance. Let us know your results please..

 

[Drover]

Plug van into home supply, switch the RCD OFF firmly then push it firmly back to ON, it should be a solid connection, if there's still no power to van just plug a hair dryer into the van end of lead to see if it works, if it does but no vanpower and you have rest the RCD properly, give it a couple of goes the RCD could be catus, with power to van the RCD should trip when you push the trip switch, if not then a new one is rerquired, Bunnings or a sparky if your unsure, if power to van but not fridge do same thing with fridge power point plug in hair dryer if it works then the problem is with the fridge ....... since the fridge is a manual 3 way all power selections are seperate so should run on gas ... testing 240 outlets with a hair dryer or lamp is always safer than using a multi meter ...

Testing 12v is an easy thing to do, not so with mains voltage even Gennys, its not the same as 12v, select the wrong range and 240 will kill you easier than a knife in a toaster.... Be wary of Invertors as well, 10a and your toast, even less ................ Thats why a light or hair dryer is a great test unit ...... Green steam is scary stuff...............

 

[garfield28]

Plug van into home supply, switch the RCD OFF firmly then push it firmly back to ON, it should be a solid connection, if there's still no power to van just plug a hair dryer into the van end of lead to see if it works, if it does but no vanpower and you have rest the RCD properly, give it a couple of goes the RCD could be catus, with power to van the RCD should trip when you push the trip switch, if not then a new one is rerquired, Bunnings or a sparky if your unsure, if power to van but not fridge do same thing with fridge power point plug in hair dryer if it works then the problem is with the fridge ....... since the fridge is a manual 3 way all power selections are seperate so should run on gas ... testing 240 outlets with a hair dryer or lamp is always safer than using a multi meter ...

Testing 12v is an easy thing to do, not so with mains voltage even Gennys, its not the same as 12v, select the wrong range and 240 will kill you easier than a knife in a toaster.... Be wary of Invertors as well, 10a and your toast, even less ................ Thats why a light or hair dryer is a great test unit ...... Green steam is scary stuff...............

Have switched the RCD a few times, the power is on in the van but the fridge still isn't working on 240v. I'm going to give it 10 minutes and come back and see if the fridge is getting cold, and then will try it on Gas again.

The other when the RCD tripped, once I switched it back the power to the van was fine just the fridge wasn't working.

 

[garfield28]

Must be stuffed. Have just tried on 240v, no good, I have tried to connect on gas and it will not ignite. I turned the stove knobs to make sure the gas was coming through and the stove worked fine.

I guess she's knackered..?