Nah, the job looks very good, sealant laid using a trowel so its 400mm wide causes more strife than a well run bit only 15mm wide, less chance of water weeping in, I reckon you'll be good.............this jobs looks like it was done by someone who took care and pride in their work, not just layer it down and hope.
16' Series Another water damaged Expanda
- Thread starter 2slow
- Start date
Not quite a water problem, more a sun problem leading to water ingress. The rubber strip joining the top to the bottom of the front of my Journey has perished, gone yellow and lifted off the fibreglass. Typical Jayco, only a dab of sealant every 300 mm or so to hold it on so it has lifted allowing water into the boot. The boot lid has dropped as a rivet or two has popped from the hinge and the boot no longer closes easily. The van has gone in to East Coast RVs for repair at a cost of around $750.
The van has been in its new shed for over 12 months and unused while Mrs CR has been in and out of hospital and the front of the van has faced north with no shade on it, taking full sun for most of the day. I have now rectified this by putting 90% shade cloth across the front of the shed but I’ve just shut the barn door after the horse has bolted.
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The van has been in its new shed for over 12 months and unused while Mrs CR has been in and out of hospital and the front of the van has faced north with no shade on it, taking full sun for most of the day. I have now rectified this by putting 90% shade cloth across the front of the shed but I’ve just shut the barn door after the horse has bolted.
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I had a similar problem with the front boot lid where attached to front ,instead of screws I put in small nut and bolts.Water was pouring in the loose screws,make sure they put sealant around the screw/bolt holes..boot lid was also distorted by single strong gas strut in the middle ,latter ones had dual struts.$800.00 for the boot lid
As an apprentice plumber I was always taught that the solder you see is the solder you don’t need.
This applied whether I soldering a brass fitting to a copper pipe or a galvanise gutter or down pipe.
Times have moved on and we now have silicant and I still apply the same theory, it is about what is in the joint rather than what is on top of the joint.
Remember the silicant you see is the silicant you don’t need.
This applied whether I soldering a brass fitting to a copper pipe or a galvanise gutter or down pipe.
Times have moved on and we now have silicant and I still apply the same theory, it is about what is in the joint rather than what is on top of the joint.
Remember the silicant you see is the silicant you don’t need.
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Hi,
Not sure if this gets through. I have similar damage on the expanda 16. Did they fix it for you. Any idea how they did it. Mine is out of warranty unfortunately.
Terry
Not sure if this gets through. I have similar damage on the expanda 16. Did they fix it for you. Any idea how they did it. Mine is out of warranty unfortunately.
Terry
Hi Terry,
Mine was fixed under warranty.
From what I can see it appears that the damaged inner ceiling lining was replaced.
The silicone sealant on the rooftop was also removed and redone in its entirety.
So far it’s all good but it hasn’t been fully tested yet.
Greg.
Mine was fixed under warranty.
From what I can see it appears that the damaged inner ceiling lining was replaced.
The silicone sealant on the rooftop was also removed and redone in its entirety.
So far it’s all good but it hasn’t been fully tested yet.
Greg.
Thanks Greg,
Missed out on the warranty period.
I think I am correct in saying the outer skin is like vinyl, very thin.
Not happy about it. See what I can do. One option I have thought about is removing all the vinyl / skin and painting it with a white gloss enamyl. The timber veneer has not been damaged.
I have resealed the top and over that have used duct tape which sticks very well.
Don't want to pay the 6 - 10 thousand quoted by repairers. 6000 by a Jayco authorised dealer and 10000 by Jayco itself in outer Sydney.
Terry