Electrical Adding solar charge controller to jayco with setek.

[Justin Capell]

Hi all

I'm new to the forum and new to caravaning, so please be kind. I have a 2010 jayco expanda. It has a setek charge controller that seems to be a fairly sealed unit that is reasonably inaccessible. From what I can understand, for what it is, it does a very good job.

My question is: Can I add a solar charge controller totally separate from the setek, to charge the same battery. To be used solely with portable panels whilst free camping.

So in a nutshell, solar panels into solar charge controller (MPPT) - then into battery. Will this interfere with the setek in anyway? The only connection between the two, will be the physical contact of the leads at the battery end.

I have read the instruction manual for the setek, and it states, solar panels should be connected directly across the battery terminals via a voltage regulator, which in this case would be the solar charge controller.

Can any one see any holes in this idea?

 

[chartrock]

Welcome to the forum @Justin Capell and we are always kind to newbies. It's only after you have been around a while that certain members start to get insulting.

I have an anderson plug on the front of the van that is wired direct to the battery (via a fuse) that I plug my portable solar panel. Works for me.

 

[Bmhdg76]

Welcome @Justin Capell ...
You are spot on with what you are wanting to do. Just make sure put inline fuses in as well and all good. Have a search through the forum on solar and will see what people have done. I have done the exact same thing and have a panel on the roof and an Anderson plug in parallel to add my portable folding panel to it as well.

BJ.

 

[Capt. Gadget]

Just make sure the output of your solar regulator doesn't exceed 14.8v and you'll be fine mine is connected through a Cetek Dual works a treat

 

[Axl]

Welcome to the site @Justin Capell, I have exactly what you are talking about for my Expanda although my portable panels have the MPPT controller on the back of them. There is a dedicated run from the battery to an Anderson plug on the A frame (put there by previous owner) and I simply plug my portable 120W panels into this.

 

[Soaring]

So I have factory Solar with the factory controller.
If I want to add a portable solar panel, I assume I can just connect up a direct feed to the battery as per @Axl and @chartrock as long as the MPPT is on the panel right?

 

[Justin Capell]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Sounds like there are a few different ways to go about it. My portable panels have a MPPT controller on the back but it's a cheap Chinese one so I'm going to by-pass it altogether and go straight though to the on board solar controller, then into battery.

My only concern is that as the power from the setek to the batteries, flows in both directions i.e from setek to batteries, and back to setek, that any charge into the batteries from the other side - solar will then flow onto the setek and cause dramas with that unit. Which could be costly to repair.

 

[achjimmy]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Sounds like there are a few different ways to go about it. My portable panels have a MPPT controller on the back but it's a cheap Chinese one so I'm going to by-pass it altogether and go straight though to the on board solar controller, then into battery.

My only concern is that as the power from the setek to the batteries, flows in both directions i.e from setek to batteries, and back to setek, that any charge into the batteries from the other side - solar will then flow onto the setek and cause dramas with that unit. Which could be costly to repair.

No mate that's how it's done. Solar direct to battery through a controller and fuse.

 

[Axl]

So I have factory Solar with the factory controller.
If I want to add a portable solar panel, I assume I can just connect up a direct feed to the battery as per @Axl and @chartrock as long as the MPPT is on the panel right?

You would find that the two MPPT controlers would fight each other in this situation, you need to run both panels through one controller ensuring it is big enough to handle the two sets of panles. Ill see if I can find some more info on this subject.

 

[Axl]

Thanks for the replies everyone. Sounds like there are a few different ways to go about it. My portable panels have a MPPT controller on the back but it's a cheap Chinese one so I'm going to by-pass it altogether and go straight though to the on board solar controller, then into battery.
This would be the best way to do it with two controllers
My only concern is that as the power from the setek to the batteries, flows in both directions i.e from setek to batteries, and back to setek, that any charge into the batteries from the other side - solar will then flow onto the setek and cause dramas with that unit. Which could be costly to repair.
That is a good point, I am not sure if this would damage the Setec but there may be a chance it could, it would be worth getting onto Jayco or Setec and asking them. But in saying that I am sure plenty of poeple have already used thier panels in this way, I havent had my panels on the van as yet.

 

[Crusty181]

Welcome to the forum @Justin Capell and we are always kind to newbies. It's only after you have been around a while that certain members start to get insulting.

..... define "a while" ????

 

[Capt. Gadget]

You would find that the two MPPT controlers would fight each other in this situation, you need to run both panels through one controller ensuring it is big enough to handle the two sets of panles. Ill see if I can find some more info on this subject.

I too wondered about this @Axl , but when you are parked in the sun and have solar on and your van hooked up to 240 as I do via a CTek 250 Dual and a CTek ms25000 240v charger the Charge input never gets over 14.4v dunno how its all voodoo magic to me, maybe @boots33 could help with some info?,

 

[Axl]

The more I think about it I have realised that there are caravans with onbord solar panels feeding direct to the battery via an MPPT or PWM controller all over the place. My dad’s Discovery has this and his battery is being charged the whole time the sun is shining regardless of whether the battery switch is on or off.

When he turns the battery switch to the on position which connects the battery to the Setec nothing goes bang, so to plug your panels in to your battery from an Anderson plug at the A frame via a controller will be exactly the same, no problems.

But if you have two controllers they will fight each other and you won’t get the desired outcome there has been plenty of info on this over at MySwag, I’ll see if I can find some.

 

[Axl]

Statement below is direct from the Setec manual http://www.setec.com.au/pdf/ST-II-User-Manual.pdf


"Solar power should be connected directly across the battery terminals with a voltage regulator in
series. A solar panel voltage regulator with maximum output voltage not exceeding 14.8 volts must
be used at all times. Failure to use a voltage regulator may result in power supply damage"

 

[boots33]

As far as solar hooked to the battery at the same time as the setec has power there should be no problems, as long as you do not exceed the 14.8v limit as the capt has said above. The below text is a direct copy from the setec FAQ list........

Can I be connected to Mains and have an AUX supply?

There should be no problem operating from both 240 Volts and AUX in as long as the AUX in does not exceed the 14.8 Volts limit defined in the manual. The AUX limit of 14.8 Volts must not be exceeded or damage to internal components will occur

It is possible that the power supply will operate in a hiccup mode if the AUX input voltage is above the voltage that the power supply is trying to regulate at, however this should not cause any problem

...... so you can see setec are not particularly worried by the prospect.

Ideally if you have two solar panels the most efficient way to use them is to hook them in parallel and connect them to the one regulator, this will remove the possibility of them interfering with each other .

I have however seen many vans who have both a permanent roof panel and a backup portable panel, both with separate regulators and have had no noticeable adverse affects. There can be no doubt that the regulators will have some form of interaction with each other , but if well designed should be able to cope as the setec does.

If you have such a system i would advise close monitoring for the first few outings to make sure all is well.

@Justin Capell do make sure you also fit a fuse to your solar lead.

 

[Soaring]

Great info @boots33 and @Axl . I might dig up my controller manual and see if it is capable of running and additional panel.not sure how to feed the wiring up to it though..

 

[Dobbie]

I asked the exact same question before taking delivery of our Expanda and had some good advice from forum members, our Jayco dealer and an auto electrician.

We wanted to use the roof panels most of the time but to have the option to use portable panels, if needed, when van panels were in shade.

So....we had anderson plug fitted to draw bar and connect portable panel with mppt controller attached via anderson plug wired directly to battery. We had to check that the portable panel set up had blocking diodes to prevent any interference with the completely separate roof top panels.

It all works beautifully...

We doubted one 100amp battery would be sufficient for our needs but have found the roof panel (150) keeps battery going easily (usually still 13.8 in mornings) and the portable panels are used very infrequently but boost battery quickly.

So we've avoided having to install a second battery with added weight and it's a simple and easy system which works!

 

[Justin Capell]

Some really good info there guys. Thanks you very much for your time looking into it. Very much appreciated.

Yes the fact that the manual states to connect them directly across the battery terminals threw me off somewhat, but if you all read that the same way I do then it shouldn't play games and fight with the setec. To me it doesn't quite make sense but if that's what the manual says then setec mustn't have a problem with it.

I believe where the manual states 'AUX' input, it's referring to the aux input on the back of the setec, which to my understanding is generally input from the car. As opposed to input from the 240v point. As some have mentioned running panels in here would be ok as it's directly into setec. In this configuration the setec would act as the voltage regulator. I'm just guessing with that mind you!!

I'm going to give it a crack and see what happens if I connect it directly across the battery terminals as per the manual.

Watch this space.

 

[boots33]

Yes the fact that the manual states to connect them directly across the battery terminals threw me off somewhat, but if you all read that the same way I do then it shouldn't play games and fight with the setec. To me it doesn't quite make sense but if that's what the manual says then setec mustn't have a problem with it.

Yes that is the best place to connect to. Don't forget the fuse.

I believe where the manual states 'AUX' input, it's referring to the aux input on the back of the setec, which to my understanding is generally input from the car. As opposed to input from the 240v point. As some have mentioned running panels in here would be ok as it's directly into setec. In this configuration the setec would act as the voltage regulator. I'm just guessing with that mind you!!

The setec provides no regulation at all on the aux in line, it is a direct connection (via a blocking diode) to the fuse panel and then on to the battery. Any solar panels connected either there or directly to the battery must have their own regulator and not exceed 14.8v.

I'm going to give it a crack and see what happens if I connect it directly across the battery terminals as per the manual.

Yeah you should have no problems, lots of others have done exactly the same thing.

 

[Dingo]

I too wondered about this @Axl , but when you are parked in the sun and have solar on and your van hooked up to 240 as I do via a CTek 250 Dual and a CTek ms25000 240v charger the Charge input never gets over 14.4v dunno how its all voodoo magic to me, maybe @boots33 could help with some info?,

Hi there mate just saw your reply did you get rid of the Jayco SETEC and just installed the 250s and MX2500?

cheers adam