Starcraft 17.58-1 Water Pump Install - yes another one...

Smokey

New Member
May 4, 2017
3
2
3
38
NSW
#1
Hi All,

First post, though I have been lurking here for some time. Great forum, love the comments and wealth of knowledge, keep up the good work!

Right, so I took delivery of our 17.58-1 Oct ish? 2017, it has two water tanks. Though being a -1 (opposed to -3) there is a manual hand pump and no 12V pump. That was just not going to fly, so a 12V pump install was on the cards from the get go. To be honest I thought it came with a 12V pump, oh well mod #1.

What I set out to do:
1) add a 12V water pump.
2) keep the mains and pump water lines as separate as possible (avoid mixing water and complexity of failing/$$$ components NRV etc).
3) use existing tap mixer, with the intent of keeping inside of van looking neat/factory.
4) mains and pump water at the draw bar for the portable hot water system.

I used all John Guest fittings, no elbows, straight lines as much as possible. I have removed the hand plumbing pump altogether and connected the factory plumping to the low pressure pump input. Hand pump itself is still installed, will replace in the next mod with an under sink water filter. Something like this.
12V pump is installed under the van, main reason is to keep all fittings outside the van, The only fittings are the JG Brass line to tap mixer connection (*Try posting a bit more so your post isn't boring*) which cant be avoided and the city mains input line, though more would be added by installing the under sink filter and dedicated tap where the hand pump currently resides.

With the draw bar line, I wanted to retain the one tap, and I did not have access to more black (UV stable) high pressure line. Using JG taps seemed a simple way to reduce the plumbing complexity, negate the need for another NRV and allow me to keep the single draw bar tap. This is all at the expense of needing to turn both taps under the van to switch the draw bar water source. If for some reason only one tap was turned water would be allowed to mix lines. Time will tell how good an idea this one was.

Why am I posting this thread? I want your comments and thoughts on how I have implemented my installed based on the above four key points. What have I missed, where may I have issues etc :)

One thing I can see already in the making of the below drawing is that when the mixer tap is opened equally between water sources (connected to mains) I may need a NRV installed before the pump to prevent water flowing through the pump to my tanks.

Water Pump Install Flow Chart.png
 

Drover

Well-Known Member
Nov 7, 2013
7,484
13,620
113
Cooloola Coast, QLD
www.expandasdownunder.com
#2
Pretty slack mob here with no replies, on my phone but looks good, get a better study when laptop is alive.....I would set it up to be workable without any ginning around, just flip a switch when you want to use the pump, a NRV on the pump is worth it.....sling the pump underneath the floor my 14.44 thread has pics of how I did it.
Ensure you tanks fill and outlets are separate.
 

Crusty181

Well-Known Member
Feb 7, 2010
4,715
10,435
113
Mentone, VIC
#3
Hi All,

First post, though I have been lurking here for some time. Great forum, love the comments and wealth of knowledge, keep up the good work!

Right, so I took delivery of our 17.58-1 Oct ish? 2017, it has two water tanks. Though being a -1 (opposed to -3) there is a manual hand pump and no 12V pump. That was just not going to fly, so a 12V pump install was on the cards from the get go. To be honest I thought it came with a 12V pump, oh well mod #1.

What I set out to do:
1) add a 12V water pump.
2) keep the mains and pump water lines as separate as possible (avoid mixing water and complexity of failing/$$$ components NRV etc).
3) use existing tap mixer, with the intent of keeping inside of van looking neat/factory.
4) mains and pump water at the draw bar for the portable hot water system.

I used all John Guest fittings, no elbows, straight lines as much as possible. I have removed the hand plumbing pump altogether and connected the factory plumping to the low pressure pump input. Hand pump itself is still installed, will replace in the next mod with an under sink water filter. Something like this.
12V pump is installed under the van, main reason is to keep all fittings outside the van, The only fittings are the JG Brass line to tap mixer connection (*Try posting a bit more so your post isn't boring*) which cant be avoided and the city mains input line, though more would be added by installing the under sink filter and dedicated tap where the hand pump currently resides.

With the draw bar line, I wanted to retain the one tap, and I did not have access to more black (UV stable) high pressure line. Using JG taps seemed a simple way to reduce the plumbing complexity, negate the need for another NRV and allow me to keep the single draw bar tap. This is all at the expense of needing to turn both taps under the van to switch the draw bar water source. If for some reason only one tap was turned water would be allowed to mix lines. Time will tell how good an idea this one was.

Why am I posting this thread? I want your comments and thoughts on how I have implemented my installed based on the above four key points. What have I missed, where may I have issues etc :)

One thing I can see already in the making of the below drawing is that when the mixer tap is opened equally between water sources (connected to mains) I may need a NRV installed before the pump to prevent water flowing through the pump to my tanks.

View attachment 60252
@Smokey and welcome to the forum. 1st caravan ??

2 tanks and no pump, sounds a little stupid ??. As @Drover says, KISS. All the jerking around should be in the design and build stage, the less jerking around on the road the better. I think a NRV on each line to the frame tap where you have the ball valves would do the same job without mucking about with the ball valves. You not planning on fitting a HWS at any point

Do you know what sort of total water flow should you expect to get out of a set of filters in the Stephani filter before the filters need changing. We travelled right around Oz and although some water isnt as magnificent as the best water in the world (Melb), we've not found we need a filter, but I interested in how long the cartridges would be expected to last. Also what types of filters would be the best for a worst case.
 
Last edited:

Smokey

New Member
May 4, 2017
3
2
3
38
NSW
#4
Thanks @Drover & @Crusty181. JG NRV purchased to be added to the pump high pressure side. Might not be the best one, but its a start.
So install is done. Though yet to wire the pump to the Drifter panel. Pulling the Drifer panel off the wire is there to connect pump positive to, though how do I get the wire into that location. Will need to come up behind the fridge and across the range hood into the radio cupboard (no doors for access). Normally 12V wiring is easy and this one while simple to connect, access wise its not so straight forward. Any tips on access for the wiring?

Were off Anzac day for a week trip. Worse case will drill a hole through the floor under bunk and temp wire it up with a swicth.

@Crusty181 The interior filter was really just a practical way to utilize the existing hole in the bench where the hand pump lives. Dont really need it.

P.s @Drover I cant find your 14.44 thread. How can I find posts you have started? I don't fancy trolling through the 16K posts your involved in.
 
Likes: Drover

Drover

Well-Known Member
Nov 7, 2013
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Cooloola Coast, QLD
www.expandasdownunder.com
#5
Here's the thread link I think the pump stuff is on page 3.

http://expandasdownunder.com/threads/drovers-14-44-3.4502/

If you can't get to your drifter just pick up a 12v feed and use that with a fused switch or direct feed from battery. Nothing wrong with a Guest NRV or any other Guest fittings, way more reliable than others....I use Pope plastic garden irrigation taps for my tank valves, $6 each at Bunnings.......we rarely use filters for water from towns would in the city though.
 

Smokey

New Member
May 4, 2017
3
2
3
38
NSW
#6
@Drover your actual pump install (metal cage etc) makes mine looks a two yro installed it. I like it though. Might have to revisit mine when I'm back home, problem though mine is located in the hall way, will need to move again to allow bigger bolts through the floor in a cupboard space.
 
Likes: Drover

Drover

Well-Known Member
Nov 7, 2013
7,484
13,620
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Cooloola Coast, QLD
www.expandasdownunder.com
#7
My original idea was was to just bolt it upside down to the floor but when I looked at it, thought not a good idea and since a chassis rail was in the way I couldn't bolt thru the floor into the cupboard thusly the fancy plate fitted to screw it to as it was under a walkway area..............bolt into a cupboard is good as the floor is just 15mm if your lucky so not much to screw into................