ANOTHER WDH question!

Ligedy

Active Member
Oct 13, 2012
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Mackay
Thanks Burnsy - will do (and make a note of it so I don't forget and learn the hard way).

I'm aiming for as much ground clearance as possible at the drop shank so I don't end up with a field plow...
 

Burnsy

Well-Known Member
Mar 26, 2012
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Newcastle
Thanks Burnsy - will do (and make a note of it so I don't forget and learn the hard way).

I'm aiming for as much ground clearance as possible at the drop shank so I don't end up with a field plow...

I know what you mean mate, the only thing is by removing you will probably have less clearance between your hitch and the ground! Can you afford to cut anything off the bottom of shank? That's what I did as I didn't need the last two holes, only thing with that is if you raise your suspension you will need those holes.
 

Brad

Well-Known Member
Jan 2, 2012
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Rowville, Victoria
You may also want to investigate adding a spacer under the towball mount on your van. Jayco sell the spacer where more clearance is required.
 

Ligedy

Active Member
Oct 13, 2012
230
176
43
Mackay
Spot on Brad, a spacer or welding plate to top of draw bar depending on where the van sits level is what I have lined up for my panda. I have gone to simplicity suspension and 16" wheels so it will be interesting to see how high it sits when I get it... 61 days till it arrives...
 

Brad

Well-Known Member
Jan 2, 2012
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Rowville, Victoria
Spot on Brad, a spacer or welding plate to top of draw bar depending on where the van sits level is what I have lined up for my panda. I have gone to simplicity suspension and 16" wheels so it will be interesting to see how high it sits when I get it... 61 days till it arrives...

We have the simplicity suspension and on the 18 I could not believe how high the van sits. That aside though, good choice of suspension if you have a tricky driveway. The wheels just step through everything independently.
 

macca

(aka maccayak)
Mar 20, 2012
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Victoria
I know what you mean mate, the only thing is by removing you will probably have less clearance between your hitch and the ground! Can you afford to cut anything off the bottom of shank? That's what I did as I didn't need the last two holes, only thing with that is if you raise your suspension you will need those holes.

Burnsy, How did you cut the bottom of your shank. I would like to do that with mine once I am happy with the final set up.

Geoff
 

Burnsy

Well-Known Member
Mar 26, 2012
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Newcastle
Burnsy, How did you cut the bottom of your shank. I would like to do that with mine once I am happy with the final set up.

Geoff

Hi mate, I used a metal cutting bandsaw at work, any engineering shop could do it or failing that maybe a slitting disc on a 5" angle grinder would do. Oxy cut would be messy, if you were close I'd be happy to do it for you!

Cheers.
 
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achjimmy

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Jan 24, 2011
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I am in the same situation now! Crusier ball is 150mm higher than the expandas hitch. Looking at the plate on top as the simplest option. I haven't run a WDH with the Pajero and don't expect the cruiser to need one, but if I dowhat's the issue with welding the plate on top? Not enough side clearance for the bars to clear chassis rail?
 

Brad

Well-Known Member
Jan 2, 2012
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Rowville, Victoria
Hi mate, I used a metal cutting bandsaw at work, any engineering shop could do it or failing that maybe a slitting disc on a 5" angle grinder would do. Oxy cut would be messy, if you were close I'd be happy to do it for you!

Cheers.
My father has a big angle grinder and he used that for exactly that reason on my old shank. I am sure he would not mind doing yours also if you want.
 

Expandaman

Member
May 24, 2013
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Dalby - QLD
I overcome my "Snowplough" issue on our 200 series cruiser by adding a 75mm riser block under the tow hitch. We used to use a 150mm Hayman reese drop shank. I couldn't even back out of our relatively flat driveway without dragging the hitch on the gutter. Let alone try and back the van into sloped sites. I used 100x75mm heavy wall RHS capped both ends with welded sleeved holes through. I had to modify the hand brake lever as it fouled on the RHS (Can be seen in photos). I painted it will killrust silver. I then were able to go back to my shorter drop WDH. Problem solved and is completely reversible if we chose to go back to standard for some reason. Just done a 4200km road trip with no movement or problems from the modifications. The only issue I have found with the 75mm rise is that you cannot turn the vehicle too sharp as the hitch bar will foul on the welded chain links at the front of the tow ( I mean turn very sharp, almost jackknife ). I simply remove the bars when I get to check in at the next park and remove the bars prior to navigating to the site. ( Leveling Bars should allways be removed prior to backing onto site anyway ). I hope this can help other to overcome the same issue we had.
 

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achjimmy

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Jan 24, 2011
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Hi Mate i got the sh1ts up in the end and made a very sturdy 120mm spacer. Have just towed to bourke and all good so far. There was no way a drop hitch was going to work for me. Photo of my spacer, Jayco dealer only offered 50mm and it was tube, this is solid Bit adds about 12kg even after I machined it. The original hitch does not sit flat on the base only the four base points.
 

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Expandaman

Member
May 24, 2013
61
25
18
Dalby - QLD
Hi Mate i got the sh1ts up in the end and made a very sturdy 120mm spacer. Have just towed to bourke and all good so far. There was no way a drop hitch was going to work for me. Photo of my spacer, Jayco dealer only offered 50mm and it was tube, this is solid Bit adds about 12kg even after I machined it. The original hitch does not sit flat on the base only the four base points.
Nice job mate. A fellow machinist, thumbs up. I'd definitely say that's a bye bye to drop hitches. My spacer is still extremely rigid as i welded heavy wall pipe sleeves into the through holes and capped the ends with 8mm plate. The RHS is 6mm wall thickness so there is no way that thing is going to flex and warp. i have not seen what Jayco are offering but I can guarantee it would not be as strong as what I made. I like seeing all these ideas that are floating around out there.
 

Expandaman

Member
May 24, 2013
61
25
18
Dalby - QLD
Hi mate, I used a metal cutting bandsaw at work, any engineering shop could do it or failing that maybe a slitting disc on a 5" angle grinder would do. Oxy cut would be messy, if you were close I'd be happy to do it for you!

Cheers.
DO NOT OXY CUT ANY TOW HITCHES!!!!!!!!!!! The heat can cause very drastic adverse side affects and may even cause the hitch to fail. Not worth the risk. Stick with the slitting disc in a 5" grinder. Very neat, no heat.
 

achjimmy

Well-Known Member
Jan 24, 2011
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Nice job mate. A fellow machinist, thumbs up. I'd definitely say that's a bye bye to drop hitches. My spacer is still extremely rigid as i welded heavy wall pipe sleeves into the through holes and capped the ends with 8mm plate. The RHS is 6mm wall thickness so there is no way that thing is going to flex and warp. i have not seen what Jayco are offering but I can guarantee it would not be as strong as what I made. I like seeing all these ideas that are floating around out there.

hey Expanda man just looked at your spacer on the PC definetly nice and strong. Given time and more access to gear I may have gone that way too, but needed something quick. Only downside to mine is weight. Btw nice handbrake mod, I machined a groove at the back buts its not enough. I will do simalar to yours.

How awesome is the 200 at towing! One word WOW.
 

Expandaman

Member
May 24, 2013
61
25
18
Dalby - QLD
hey Expanda man just looked at your spacer on the PC definetly nice and strong. Given time and more access to gear I may have gone that way too, but needed something quick. Only downside to mine is weight. Btw nice handbrake mod, I machined a groove at the back buts its not enough. I will do simalar to yours.

How awesome is the 200 at towing! One word WOW.
King of the road. Nuf Said.
 

Hubble80

Well-Known Member
Nov 22, 2012
524
303
63
Moranbah, QLD
When I bought my GXL last month the salesman told me that the Offroad tow hitch was the way to go with my van. I don't know of anything that would be towed by it, way to high. My 17.56-2OB sits slightly nose high using it, however that was the LC and the van fully unloaded, no water etc. When towing my box trailer it sits very nose high!!!

I have to go and have a look at a mates who tows a 17.56-2OB also as he has the "On Road" tongue. He reckons that his van sites spot on behind the Cruiser...
 

achjimmy

Well-Known Member
Jan 24, 2011
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Yeah they supplied a "offroad" to me too, even though I requested "onroad" go back to the salesman and make him fix it. They need to swap the hitch and change the sticker.
 

Hubble80

Well-Known Member
Nov 22, 2012
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Moranbah, QLD
I bought the hitch from a dealer online as the saving was pretty big including postage. Suppose I should know by now about trusting car dealers ... besides, my brother used to be one!!!

This thread has got my interest on how some owners of similar height vans as mine are having to put spacers on or use massive drop shank hitches...I reckon if I could drop my towball height by ~75mm which would be the case with the On Road tongue, all would be sweet...
 

Hubble80

Well-Known Member
Nov 22, 2012
524
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63
Moranbah, QLD
Just found that the On Road tongue is 60mm lower than the Off Road one.

Anyone wanna buy a LC200 OffRoad tow hitch, only used twice...?
 

hamish22

Well-Known Member
May 12, 2013
742
641
93
West of Newcastle
www.grmotorsport.com.au
Took my van for a test hit out today, no WDH.

Sits reasonably level without any adjustments whatsoever!

Maybe with a bit more weight will adjust the rear airbags!

Sat and drove very neat and straight.

Will give the WDH a miss for a while as I am happy as is!
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