12' Series RM2553 Fridge Options

[Expanadaman]

Folks,
Fridge doing my head in !!
Up until recently my trouble free 3 way original had always done its job. Owned van for about 10 years.
150L RM2553 beige in a March 2012 16.49-1 Expanda Outback, stock standard cabinetry install. Never been touched at all, never missed a beat.
Hadn't used van for 18-24 months, plugged it into 240V to pre cool fridge for long weekender. Didn't do its bizzo, not cool.
Tried the gas option, same no cool. Gave up for that trip.

Have since had some time and tested at home, no better outcome !!

100% flat level. Put some multiple cold bottles of water in there, thermometers in freezer and fridge spaces.
240 V, 100% tested power point. all good, run for 48 hours, Boiler tube warm, fridge not cooling at all.
Gas full bottle. Piezo lighter and normal function of firing up via switch panel, flame burning bright, all visible when I took cover off, flu warm, 3 days running, fridge not cooling at all.
The fridge itself inside making the churning, cycling, chugging, gurgling noises as normal when liquid/gas sounds like it flowing and doing its normal job on both 240 and gas but no cooling in fridge at all. Freezer space nothing.
It all sounds normal and produces heat as expected on both 240/gas but does not cool fridge/freezer at all.

Reading lots of possibilities, in other's experiences, would you think I'm looking at possibility of:

1 - blocked pipes/tubes (gurgling noise sounds like something is happening within so not sure if this is the problem) - try Burp time ?
2 - Lost gas/ammonia/water (No obvious leaks) - how do you test this ?
3 - Thermostat issue - grasping at straws ?
4 - Bin time !!

I can take to local general fridgy workshop in bush where I live, but thought I'd see if I couldn't at least try to diagnose it myself prior to coughing up.

Free mars bar to anyone who can provide any leads and or conviction of culprit on my issue !!

Cheers

 

[Drover]

A hot flu under Gas or Power means the burner and elements are okay ......

It could be age has caused the refrigerant to block up but if its been stored level and youv'e done a run in it, I doubt its the issue as the run should have shaken things up...

Loss of refrigerant is a possibility, with such a long period between use it could have leaked out and you wouldn't have smelt it, unless you recall a strong smell of Cats Pee lingering around ... The refrigerent is ammonia so stinks.

Thermostat on these manual jobs can be an issue, if you fire it up with thermostat set to coldest the gas burner should roar away at full noise and once turned to the warmest setting the burner should drop right back, been awhile now since Ive fiddled with one but I think we gave each setting a good 10 mins or so to settle , at the time it was the switch causing the problem, not expensive just a big pain to get at as the fridge does need to be removed .........
If its gurgling I think thats a sign of the refrigerent just not getting to vaporise, so thermo issue is the most likely if the flame doesn't vary in intensity ...

A new thermostat to suit Part# 2931336016 from Caravans Plus is $210 so be aorund the $200 smackers ....

When mine went after some 10 years or so, it didn't cool but when I went to check at the back, Cats Pee hit me so I knew it was stuffed, if you pull the fridge out and have a close inspection of the back you may see a rusty crack in the fins/tank areas ...........
Repair at these ages I didn't think was a good idea so did a measure up and got a new one and while waiting for it to be delivered I gave the fridge cavity a remodel with proper insulation and sealing, upgraded my fan block ...

I looked at compressor fridge but while cost was similar the extra battery storage pushed it into too many $$$ and with proper insulation fitting mine now works just as good as compressor job ............. If you do replace look for a 2 door job if one will fit int he space as a decent freezer is a god send.

Bought my new fridge from Dometic in Brisbane as it was cheaper delivered than from other RV Shops. ....

Dometic Fridges for Caravans and 4WDs | Australia

Dometic fridges are built for Australian conditions — from remote 4WD touring to caravan parks. Find 12V, 24V, and dual-zone options for your setup.

www.dometic.com

Hope that helps ............

 

[Expanadaman]

Awesome, thanks for detailed response.
The cat pee smell I don't recall running into either in the van or when playing with its back cavity !!
I'll try the gas flat out at start and then drop to low trick and see what that turns up?
If it is stuffed, Mmmm yes the next dilemma, what to replace with !!
Thanks for the link.

 

[Drover]

You will have to run it on gas for a bit until the flu gets Hot anyway, then adjusting the dial should throw a change in gas flame ... I'm not sure how you would check using power though ... If the flame stays the same and the flu doesn't get hot to touch then it does look like the thermostat ... after an hour the flu should be hot,hot burnies ......

The flame won't be a biggie like on the HWS but you will see a change ...

 

[Expanadaman]

You will have to run it on gas for a bit until the flu gets Hot anyway, then adjusting the dial should throw a change in gas flame ... I'm not sure how you would check using power though ... If the flame stays the same and the flu doesn't get hot to touch then it does look like the thermostat ... after an hour the flu should be hot,hot burnies ......

The flame won't be a biggie like on the HWS but you will see a change ...

Ok, ran it on gas for 4 or 5 hours at flat out, max cool, no cooling in fridge.

Then wound thermostat back to minimum to see if flame change, can't really say there was any noticeable difference to be honest.
Photo 1 full stick after the first 4 or 5 hours
Photo 2 (15 mins after winding down thermostat) to Min cool
Photo 3 (15 mins later) still on min cool
Photo 4 ( wound back uo to max cool) gave it 10 or so before photo
Brightness of flame only really gets brighter as it gets darker, the size of the flame etc didn't really alter to any significance if at all

Piping and tank was all warm enough to touch, could leave fingers on it for some time, flu fairly warm to touch, liquid gurgling sounds happening

After my experiment period and run time of about 6 hours
The temp in the freezer was 26
The temp in the fridge was 16

The fins in the back of the fridge compartment were not cool at all, seems the heat transfer process ( the absorption ? ) is where its falling down ?

I think its days are numbered !!!

Cheers

 

[Drover]

The piping and fins at top of should be very hot, hotter on one side than the other, if you have a thermometer they can be up in the 50-60c area though maybe a bit less in winter but still hot to touch ..............

The gurgling while I'm not 100%, actually didn't notice when mates was stuffed we just took the gamble, does seem to point that the boiler isn't getting hot enough to boil the liquid but the pics of the burner do show it as being very hot by the glow of the hot burner itself so I do wonder if the plumbing has blockage, the ammonia can form crystals which block the pipes, description Ive read makes it sound like blocked arteries .............. The remedy for that I have been told is to pull the fridge out and turn it upside down, leave it that way for a day or to then refit it, I have been told if its a blockage then that will fix it but never been there myself ( if you pull it out if there's any yellow colouring on tank or pipes then you have a leak.)

So since you would have to pull it out to replace the thermostat, ( not to be confused with the thermocuple,) it wouldn't be a biggy to up end it and see anyway, if no good you could then order a thermostat and while waiting insulate the fridge cavity ....

I would take a stab at it being the thermostat so I suppose a $200 gamble on one if your up to DiY, new fridge about $2500 or a fridge mechanic but needs to be one familiar with 3 way fridges .........

Thats about all I can namage, be more help if I could see and touch ... If you DiY all power needs to be disconnected along with gas and be gentle with the gas fitting and label everything .. when back together do a leak test with soapy water on your gas connection.

 

[Boots in Action]

The piping and fins at top of should be very hot, hotter on one side than the other, if you have a thermometer they can be up in the 50-60c area though maybe a bit less in winter but still hot to touch ..............

The gurgling while I'm not 100%, actually didn't notice when mates was stuffed we just took the gamble, does seem to point that the boiler isn't getting hot enough to boil the liquid but the pics of the burner do show it as being very hot by the glow of the hot burner itself so I do wonder if the plumbing has blockage, the ammonia can form crystals which block the pipes, description Ive read makes it sound like blocked arteries .............. The remedy for that I have been told is to pull the fridge out and turn it upside down, leave it that way for a day or to then refit it, I have been told if its a blockage then that will fix it but never been there myself ( if you pull it out if there's any yellow colouring on tank or pipes then you have a leak.)

So since you would have to pull it out to replace the thermostat, ( not to be confused with the thermocuple,) it wouldn't be a biggy to up end it and see anyway, if no good you could then order a thermostat and while waiting insulate the fridge cavity ....

I would take a stab at it being the thermostat so I suppose a $200 gamble on one if your up to DiY, new fridge about $2500 or a fridge mechanic but needs to be one familiar with 3 way fridges .........

Thats about all I can namage, be more help if I could see and touch ... If you DiY all power needs to be disconnected along with gas and be gentle with the gas fitting and label everything .. when back together do a leak test with soapy water on your gas connection.

I do not believe it would be the thermostat. Ian advised to feel the piping above the burner (not the burner itself!) which should be bluddy hot and then again just before the condenser fins. That too should be very hot! Any liquid/ gas that has managed to reach that point then has the heat dissipated by the finned area, hotter on input side and slightly cooler but still hot on the output side. If this is NOT the case, it is a fair indication that the hot refrigerant has NOT reached this area because it has a blockage in the percolator tube at the boiler. As the gas heater seems to be working strongly, the gurgling sound is probably the refrigerant boiling and boiling and not able to proceed further up the tubing. Sounds like the death knell for your fridge unfortunately. Incidentally, you should forget about checking the fridge part as the freezer gets first dibs at any cooling. Below is the best link to how his happens and what occurs when percolator tube is blocked.

Electrical 3 way fridges must be level - see what happens when not correct​

• Thread starterBoots in Action
• Start dateFeb 26, 2021
• TagsNone

Manage to go back and find this very relevant video which should clarify the problem for you @Expanadaman .

 

[Drover]

Yep @boots that is probably it but need to cover the simple/obvious things first ....... Hard when you can't touch the things....

Pull it out, turn it turtle for a day and see if it then works, if not then try the thermostat, small price to pay if its DiY ,still saving hundreds as its about the same as the tech would do unless he just goes its stuffed get a new one.....lol,lol...