Electrical Vehicle Wiring Information on new Jayco Vans

[Eddii]

Hi All,
Just sharing this document I got from Jayco. I'm not sure if it has been shared already.
I'm in the process of changing my wiring set up to suit our new van. I used to have an Anderson plug to feed the fridge in my previous van but now I'll simplify it with just the one plug. I already have the 12 pin setup in my ute
Cheers
Eddii

 

[RickB]

This diagram indicates that the wire in pin 2 includes "Main Battery Charge" so can I also use it to charge the battery from my folding solar panel when unplugged from the vehicle?

Thanks,

Rick.

 

[mikerezny]

This diagram indicates that the wire in pin 2 includes "Main Battery Charge" so can I also use it to charge the battery from my folding solar panel when unplugged from the vehicle?

Thanks,

Rick.

Hi @RickB,
no, not usually. If you look at the diagram, the +ve from the 12-pin plug goes into the Setec via the AUX input and then to the van battery.

If you download a copy of the Setec manual (find the correct one, since there are 3 models of Setec, each of which comes in two variants 20 and 35) you will find out that inside the Setec there is a diode in series with the feed AND this is limited to a maximum of 0.8A.

The 'usual' way of connecting a solar panel and controller is to get some 6 or 8 AWG twin cable and connect directly to the battery terminals via an inline fuse on the +ve lead as close to the battery as possible. Put an Anderson plug on the other end. Then use this to plug in the output of the solar controller. Another advantage is that this direct feed allows you to use it as a useful high current external12V outlet.

If you happen to have a Drifter panel there is a slight variation to this that you will need to know about.

I hope this helps and don't hesitate to ask for clarification or ask more questions.

cheers
Mike

 

[Drover]

As @mikerezny said use a seperate run to the battery for your portable panel @RickB , you won't fry your Setek or breakaway battery, no loss of power from panel from poor wiring size plus I wouldn't rely on their wiring diagram to be all that accurate, some funny things get done beneath the covers on a vans wiring.
I also prefer a straight run of heavier than original cable with anderson for the fridge, after running for years with a 12 pin doing the job, one day a melt down of the plug because the pins overheated, so lost not only fridge power but lights, brakes as well..............

 

[RickB]

Hi Mike,
Thanks for the explanation and I do have a Drifter so what is the trick to wire the battery.
I was just trying to find a way to use existing cable as my 20.62 OB has a false floor and I haven't thought of a good way to get a new cable through.

Thanks.

 

[Drover]

If you want to keep an eye on the power's Ins and Outs then you wire the panel thru the Drifter but if you don't really care other than the odd look at the controller on the portable panel then a hook up straight to the battery is good, plus you can then use the same anderson to run a compressor or other heavy draw device if needed.

Any more info about the false floor ?????.........sounds interesting...

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi Ric

The 'usual' way of connecting a solar panel and controller is to get some 6 or 8 AWG twin cable and connect directly to the battery terminals via an inline fuse on the +ve lead as close to the battery as possible. Put an Anderson plug on the other end. Then use this to plug in the output of the solar controller. Another advantage is that this direct feed allows you to use it as a useful high current external12V outlet.

Hello Rick, as @mikerezny said about a separate feed for solar power, here is a photo of what I did to connect power to my Penguin. One Anderson plug is for connection of my portable solar panels to the MPPT solar controller in the van and the other is for connecting 12 volt power into/out of van battery. This is wired directly across the battery with 8AWG wire and is protected by a 30A in line fuze. It enables me to connect up my "smart charger" for battery maintenance without having to open battery compartment and use alligator clips or use the Setec. Also handy if large power requirements needed direct from battery without having to go through lesser fuses for other auxiliary purposes.

 

[RickB]

Hi Boots,
Do you also use the 12 v Anderson to charge from your vehicle?

 

[Boots in Action]

Hi Boots,
Do you also use the 12 v Anderson to charge from your vehicle?

Hi @RickB , None of these Anderson plugs on the side of the van are used for connecting power from tug. The wiring from tug to van consists (for my Penguin) of a 7 pin flat for van lights, indicators, and brakes. I have a separate Anderson plug from the tug to the van and it consists of 3 wires, 2 of which are 8AWG which go direct to the fridge and a single lighter wire which goes to the Setec to (trickle) charge the van battery. This line has a power diode in it to prevent power from a higher van battery voltage flowing back to a lower voltage tug battery. There is no connection from fridge terminals in van to main battery in van. The wiring from tug to van has a VSR (voltage sensitive relay) in line to prevent draw down of vehicle battery when engine is stopped. I think mine cuts in/out when tug battery voltage is around 12.6 volts. I removed the alligator clips on the end of my 240v charger and replaced them with Anderson plug so I could plug charger straight into van. I also have charging lead which has Anderson plug on one end and alligator clips on other end, so by joining them together, I can still use charger on normal battery posts.