Solar Wiring/Connecting Solar panels

Brente1982

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Oct 7, 2019
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Ok, so i have a couple of questions, that ive found a little hard to find through a simple google search.

If im going to have 2-3 fixed solar panels on the roof of the van, and then an anderson plug on the A frame or chassis for a portable panel or 2, am i better off connecting them in parallel, and utilising 2 or 3 into 1 MC4 connectors for the roof, and then another 2 into 1 MC4 connector inside the van to pick up the portable panels? All will be going to an MPPT controller.

If i do it this way, would i have to keep all the panels the same voltage? or can you mix and match voltages when in parallel?
 

Boots in Action

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Mar 13, 2017
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Ok, so i have a couple of questions, that ive found a little hard to find through a simple google search.

If im going to have 2-3 fixed solar panels on the roof of the van, and then an anderson plug on the A frame or chassis for a portable panel or 2, am i better off connecting them in parallel, and utilising 2 or 3 into 1 MC4 connectors for the roof, and then another 2 into 1 MC4 connector inside the van to pick up the portable panels? All will be going to an MPPT controller.

If i do it this way, would i have to keep all the panels the same voltage? or can you mix and match voltages when in parallel?

@Brente1982 , Never a good idea to mix and match different panels with different output voltages and efficiencies. It is possible but may??have some interesting results when some are in shade/partially shaded and others are in full sun. In theory, the input to the MPPT controller should be the total of all the outputs from each panel, but with variations in design, efficiency, max charge voltage etc. no theory result would be correct. You should also bypass all controllers on panels and direct all currents from panels (roof or portable) direct to the MPPT controller. Also ensure that MPPT controller has the capacity to handle all this current continuously, even for short periods. Of course, you can always run the roof panels separately (switch off portables - disconnect or by switch) , or vice versa. Now maybe a good time to calculate your expected current draw so you have some idea of what is needed to maintain battery storage. Others will have further suggestions I am sure. Other combinations of parallel for roof panels and series for portables are possible, but NEVER running together at the same time!!!
 

Brente1982

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One concept ive come across is 2 separate MPPT controllers. Victron Smartsolar controllers now work in syncronisation with each other which is a neat concept.

Just looking at all possabilities.
 

Boots in Action

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Mar 13, 2017
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One concept ive come across is 2 separate MPPT controllers. Victron Smartsolar controllers now work in syncronisation with each other which is a neat concept.

Just looking at all possabilities.

Would work out well with that modern update and two controllers being synchronized together to charge battery bank/s. If you have the money (or need??) then go for it. Personally, I have neither!
 

Brente1982

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Oct 7, 2019
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Would work out well with that modern update and two controllers being synchronized together to charge battery bank/s. If you have the money (or need??) then go for it. Personally, I have neither!

Hahaha, yes i know. Its food for thought. But i see this van as a long term investment, so id like to set it up properly from the beginning.
 

poor but proud

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Aug 25, 2018
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my older van is also a long term investment for one who does not have excess cash to splash, i am not technically minded but consider myself practical by means of research and trial and error, if i were to install a system that has multiple components and imputs i would try to set it up in such a way, that when there is an issue (and there will be), i will know where to start ,is it this panel ? is it this battery? is it this controller? what power draw is causing the issue? if it is all connected where do you start? any one of mutiple components can cause you to lose all power storage, usually when you are away from professional help. and do not always believe the experts,.a saying from my days in the bush, EXPERT translates to EX= unknown quantity SPERT = a drip under pressure, having said that KISS has always worked for me.
 

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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I think your over thinking things, get panels fitted with the build or it will be a pain to retro fit, sort out the portables when you actually get the rig, panel voltage for 12v panels is 18 - 22v, and really means stuff all just have it wired up properly thats where the problems occur........Have your portable set up to go direct to battery on its own reg or shut down reg for it to plug into vans reg , 18-19 or 22 will make bugga all change............ by your earlier statement you will have a sh8t load of power anyway................ Theres a lot of rubbish out there about solar, bench dreaming I call it for things change when in real world......... https://www.gorv.com.au/10-rv-solar-myths/
 

Brente1982

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Oct 7, 2019
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Initially overthinking it yes, but once i got an answer it was clearer. It might sound like a lot of components, but i dont think it is.

Panels on roof connected to Victron 100/50 mppt
Portable panels to be connected to Victron 100/30 mppt
Victron Blue Smart 230/12 AC charger
240ah lithium battery

Done.
 

Crusty181

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Feb 7, 2010
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A mix of my experience and info gleaned from Boots and Mike. I ripped the single factory 150w panel off and fitted 3 x 200w fixed panels. The panels cost me $345 total delivered, and perform very well. I swapped out the Jayco factory pwm controller for an Epever 75/40, connected in turn to 2 x 120ahr agms. I ran the 3 x panels in series and each panel has 2 bypass diodes so partial shading which would otherwise kill me, has little effect. Connected in series translates into a better harvest over a longer period, in fact before 7am and after 7pm I still get amps into the batteries, and we're over 30amp in the sweet spot. Series also requires a controller able to take the combined voltage in from the panels, and the increased amps out to the batteries. Series was a bonus for me because I didnt have to upgrade any cabling. I used the panels MC4 connectors with joining cables I knocked up, and the existing factory roof entry GP terminal box Jayco put on the roof. My terminal box is unfortunately under the original panel, and now under one of the new panels. Not ideal, but better than tempting fate with a new roof penetration. I ran all my panel cabling via suspended uv conduit bored through the side of the panel frames. Nothing sits on the roof so I didn't affect the roof water run off in any way. I have 3 x blanket panels 100w, 150, 200w. I carry them all in the van but for all but one they are just a set of redundant upgrades purely for the Engel in the car. I have a Anderson input/ouput on the bullbar to plug in the blanket. I also have a Anderson input/output direct to the vans batteries on the vans chassis around midway along the van on the road side. I use that van plug for tyre pump, water pump, lights for the camp shower etc and I can also connect the blanket solar panel if required. I use a Victron SmartSolar 75/15 for the blanket panels. From everything I could find to read, solar controllers can be happily connected to the same batteries without any significant adverse impact, types seemed irrelevant. We all seem happy enough that 100% charge isn't the aim of the smart alternator when it comes to the car, so I cant see why sub 100% would be so non negotiable with other batteries anyways.

For our infield use we always camp with the van in full sun where possible, purely for the solar. We have significant experience ie we camp a lot, and a lot of it up north and that works fine for us. There are exceptions of course but most of the time with the van angled appropriately we keep the midday to arvo sun behind the van and the shade on the awning side. We've not felt the need to seek out shade, and forsake solar harvest, we gain little from the shade but loose out big time with solar so for us thats a obvious choice. Im a big fan of not having a 2 hour camp setup with $hit everywhere, I prefer to stop, stay connected and deploy minimal hardware and ordinance, light the fire and get naked .... only joking, or am I. Every though I have the input on the van, panels have never been plugged in other than the initial buggering about to see if it works. We have always managed to avoid the shade, never suffered as a result and for an overnighter or a couple of days its doesn't matter anyway. I now have a long Anderson lead that I run from the vans Anderson to the cars Anderson to top up the car from the vans batteries, which in turn are enjoying 600w of lumen love. I now have a fixed panel on the car, and a controller under the bonnet, so the blankets wont see much action now at all really unless rooftop camping under trees .... unlike the van where having sun on the van is preferred, I choose to camp/camp in the shade because there nowhere to hide from the sun. In summary, for us blankets and portables rarely see much action
 

Boots in Action

Well-Known Member
Mar 13, 2017
2,055
1,809
113
Ferny Grove, Queensland
A mix of my experience and info gleaned from Boots and Mike. I ripped the single factory 150w panel off and fitted 3 x 200w fixed panels. The panels cost me $345 total delivered, and perform very well. I swapped out the Jayco factory pwm controller for an Epever 75/40, connected in turn to 2 x 120ahr agms. I ran the 3 x panels in series and each panel has 2 bypass diodes so partial shading which would otherwise kill me, has little effect. Connected in series translates into a better harvest over a longer period, in fact before 7am and after 7pm I still get amps into the batteries, and we're over 30amp in the sweet spot. Series also requires a controller able to take the combined voltage in from the panels, and the increased amps out to the batteries. Series was a bonus for me because I didnt have to upgrade any cabling. I used the panels MC4 connectors with joining cables I knocked up, and the existing factory roof entry GP terminal box Jayco put on the roof. My terminal box is unfortunately under the original panel, and now under one of the new panels. Not ideal, but better than tempting fate with a new roof penetration. I ran all my panel cabling via suspended uv conduit bored through the side of the panel frames. Nothing sits on the roof so I didn't affect the roof water run off in any way. I have 3 x blanket panels 100w, 150, 200w. I carry them all in the van but for all but one they are just a set of redundant upgrades purely for the Engel in the car. I have a Anderson input/ouput on the bullbar to plug in the blanket. I also have a Anderson input/output direct to the vans batteries on the vans chassis around midway along the van on the road side. I use that van plug for tyre pump, water pump, lights for the camp shower etc and I can also connect the blanket solar panel if required. I use a Victron SmartSolar 75/15 for the blanket panels. From everything I could find to read, solar controllers can be happily connected to the same batteries without any significant adverse impact, types seemed irrelevant. We all seem happy enough that 100% charge isn't the aim of the smart alternator when it comes to the car, so I cant see why sub 100% would be so non negotiable with other batteries anyways.

For our infield use we always camp with the van in full sun where possible, purely for the solar. We have significant experience ie we camp a lot, and a lot of it up north and that works fine for us. There are exceptions of course but most of the time with the van angled appropriately we keep the midday to arvo sun behind the van and the shade on the awning side. We've not felt the need to seek out shade, and forsake solar harvest, we gain little from the shade but loose out big time with solar so for us thats a obvious choice. Im a big fan of not having a 2 hour camp setup with $hit everywhere, I prefer to stop, stay connected and deploy minimal hardware and ordinance, light the fire and get naked .... only joking, or am I. Every though I have the input on the van, panels have never been plugged in other than the initial buggering about to see if it works. We have always managed to avoid the shade, never suffered as a result and for an overnighter or a couple of days its doesn't matter anyway. I now have a long Anderson lead that I run from the vans Anderson to the cars Anderson to top up the car from the vans batteries, which in turn are enjoying 600w of lumen love. I now have a fixed panel on the car, and a controller under the bonnet, so the blankets wont see much action now at all really unless rooftop camping under trees .... unlike the van where having sun on the van is preferred, I choose to camp/camp in the shade because there nowhere to hide from the sun. In summary, for us blankets and portables rarely see much action

Spoken like a real "Tech Head" @Crusty181. We have both learned a lot over time on this forum. Interestingly, we both now have similar setups - panels in series, Anderson plugs on vehicle and van for flexibility of use.
 
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Brente1982

Active Member
Oct 7, 2019
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@Crusty, what size are the panels in dimensions. And where along the roof of your van did you fit them? Only asking because its rather narror along side the aircon unit ontop of the roof. Anything over 200W in panel size seems to be too wide to fit down that side.
 

Crusty181

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Feb 7, 2010
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1476x35x670mm.

I want to use 2 x 250w panels. They would likely have fit on measurements alone but, had the mounting location changed only a few cm's I could have been in trouble, so I ditched that and ended up with 200s and an extra 100w to boot. The 200w panels fit neatly, and clear both the J mould and aircon. I wanted to keep the panels away from the aircon as best I could to avoid any potential shadowing. I raised them a little more than factory for plenty of cooling clearance. Its work out a pretty neat instal, and the results have been great. The rear panel (closest to the camera) is on the original mounts for the removed 150w panel, ironically the roof brackets were not quite far enough apart for the 150w so bent outwards, but perfect for the wider but slightly shorter 200w. A couple of standoffs keep the conduit from flexing. The original plan back then included refitting the 150w panel to the front of the roof with a weather proof controller attached as a stand alone, and run a cable straight to an Anderson on the drawbar as a short easy bother free plug straight into the car, but the roof panel on the car will likely negate that. It may well yet end up of the roof of the factory to use to keep the van, truck and other batteries in shape ..... The panels are cheap Chinese directly from Sunyee, but they all tested up quite well. I paid $115 delivered, I see today they are $179 not sure why they've shot up but they have a pretty good reputation

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