Caravans are starting to get like computers and Mobile phones, we will soon have to get the grand kids over to show us how to use them
Starcraft Jayco Outback Starcraft Solar
- Thread starter Tiery
- Start date
Mate it all takes time and the will to pull things apart or know the Why ? Not everyone wants to know or cares but some do, I have always been a "Why Is It So ? " fella .......... why it ticks and how it ticks makes life easier when it stops ticking I think ...you are also aware when someone tries a swifty on you ............. I prefer to try and keep things basic so a repair can be achieved quickly and easily with limited resources, holidays were always precious along with cash so I did things by KiSS ... many things now are just made complicated when no need to, again a chair borne designer never leaving the AC office....... or someone seeing plenty of gullible willing to part with their hard earned....
I suppose starting off camping where light was by tilly lamp, cold was by Esky or Coolgardie so when battery lights and fridges came along, just like later with computers I was there with screwdriver to see what was what....... Still the same ..............
We have all probably been around long enough to have used kero lamps or gas lanterns when camping years ago...along with regular trips to pick up ice.
Either that or carry a 240v bar fridge to plug in somewhere!
Things were so much simpler then..and much cheaper too! I am one of those silly blokes too that pulls things apart and put them together to know how they work, i would always have a bolt or screw or two left over though?
I can't recall how many times I got electrocuted as a kid mucking about with stuff I probably shouldn't have been...
As you wrote, it is whole lot easier to trouble shoot when you have a fair idea of how something works, or can substitute to get out of trouble...
Either that or carry a 240v bar fridge to plug in somewhere!
Things were so much simpler then..and much cheaper too! I am one of those silly blokes too that pulls things apart and put them together to know how they work, i would always have a bolt or screw or two left over though?
I can't recall how many times I got electrocuted as a kid mucking about with stuff I probably shouldn't have been...
As you wrote, it is whole lot easier to trouble shoot when you have a fair idea of how something works, or can substitute to get out of trouble...
I made a simple example schematic for the 3 options discussed - either 12pin or anderson plug works - I have the 12v pin high current paralled with an anderson on the towbar.
Top one is standard and what most people use, 2nd one is my favorite as it has no losses in the 12v high current feed and has 12v permanently at the towbar if you use an anderson for other things like a compressor,a lamp or solar input via a seperate controller, 3rd one is the less common but very effective motion switch that also has the benefit of permanent 12v at the towbar
Top one is standard and what most people use, 2nd one is my favorite as it has no losses in the 12v high current feed and has 12v permanently at the towbar if you use an anderson for other things like a compressor,a lamp or solar input via a seperate controller, 3rd one is the less common but very effective motion switch that also has the benefit of permanent 12v at the towbar
Yep I like #2 as well, fridge shuts itself down but you should point out only works for auto fridges, analogue jobs don't have the D+..... .......
Last edited:
The number of complaints on J sites re the new electronic systems is ridiculous.Apps for everything ,the old KISS still applies .My mates new Avida van with all the electronics had the slide out not retract at a free camp neer Longreach.Avida said could he get it to their agent in Townsville! They finally got it in ,in fits and starts only for it to stay out again this time terminal.Complete motor short.The motor had been virtually built with no realway to get it out but to cut the wood work etc.,!
You only need a thin wire because the d+ draws no current. I use a piggyback fuse holder and 1 amp fuse at the ignition end
Yes @jazzeddie1234 , it is all a case of horses for courses!! I have an analogue fridge in van so had to operate differently to cover my own situation.
Given 1 X 93L 3 way fridge in van, plus 1 X 36L 3 way fridge in back of tug, and a desire to get max current into van battery. Estimated max current demand to be approx 50 amps - 16A for van fridge, 8 amps for fridge in tug and up to 25 amps to charge van battery if needed.
Connections are as follows:- Heavy duty wire from battery to 100A auto reset fuze; then same size wire from fuze to 100 amp VSR; then with 3 separate lines AWG 8 gauge to (a) Anderson plug on tug for connection to van fridge, (b) to Anderson plug in back of tug for connection to 36L fridge, (c) a connecting line to 12 pin plug on back of tug for connection to pin #8 heavy duty on van which is currently connected to Setec aux line. (awaiting further experimenting with connection direct to van battery, thus avoiding the 0.7 volt voltage drop caused by power diode or the need for BC to DC step up???). Pin # 2 not used.
ALL neg return wiring is same AWG 8 gauge with brass connections to tug chassis for 36L fridge, and the same AWG 8 gauge for van fridge via Anderson plug from van to tug. Likewise from pin #10 (earth return) on 12 pin plug on van to tug chassis. Advantages are that all high current devices are auto disconnected when battery voltage drops below 12.6 volts when engine switched off. With a draw of over 20 amps, it does not take long for voltage to drop to this level even with a good battery, but does no harm for the very short period as is only voltage and not capacity. Because when tug battery is being used for cranking, voltage always drops below 12.6 volts, which means that all loads through the VSR are disconnected, and does not connect the van battery into the starting circuit. All lines are reconnected when battery/line voltage reaches 13.4 volts or higher.. There is a 15 sec delay when opening/closing relay to avoid contacts "chattering" when close to settings. Alternator charging voltage via tug battery loses very little in reaching van battery and is controlled by alternator regulator (non smart alternator type) at approx 14.3 volts. Small red LED lights confirm all areas are successfully connected and operating. So far, all working as designed.
Hi Boots in Action, i have received that little gizmo you suggested for tracking fridge temps, I'll be using it next time out.@Hitting the road , some more info for you to consider regarding temperature gauge for your fridge. I have tried the companion- wired and wireless - and a couple of other types until I came across this one on Ebay. Link below.. It has two remote sensors and a third sensor in the main display unit. Sensor #1 I placed in freezer, sensor #2 in fridge area (clipped onto rack), and sensor #3 for ambient internal van temperature which is incorporated in the main display unit on wall of van for easy sighting. All 3 show current temp in real time, and also show and record the range of temps (highest and lowest) for the previous period since last re-set. Freezer has been down as low as minus 28.0C and van sensor as high as 40C, so big ranges catered for. Also shows temp "trend" indication by arrow whether stable, or climbing or cooling temps. All three can be set for "alarm" at selected min and max settings too. Apparently the receiving display unit can work up to 50 metres away although I have never tried that as unit remains in van approx 4 metres away from sensors. Massive advantages all the time and for around $25.00 when I bought it (cheaper at the moment!!!) , surpasses all the others I have tried. Needs 2 X AA batteries in sensors #1 and 2 and 2 X AAA in main unit. Batteries in sensors #1 and 2 last a long time with good quality alkaline batteries, but the main unit which has the displays on all the time not as long as the others. Also has battery level indicator. Chinglesh instructions are a pain, but this unit can be bought on Ebay from a Sydney distributor so quick delivery. Best investment I have ever made for fridge monitoring temperature without opening any doors!!! Also makes a great and useful present to your camping friends or even at home.
THIS IS NOT A PAID FOR ADVERT AND I RECEIVE NO MONETARY GAIN !!!!!
224839343704 | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 224839343704 at the best online prices at eBay!www.ebay.com.au
I have also fitted a 120mm fan to the inside of the top fridge vent, and used a 50 degree thermostat in the loom to attached to the fins on the back of the fridge. I tested it and it all works fine, just have to fit the vent back in when I am next over at the mates place and find some where to connect the wires for 12v.
Cheers
Great to hear of your latest changes. I connected my external fridge fans to cool back of fridge to a separate fused line with a switch in line for control purposes. You do not want the fan coming on when fridge is not in use but the ambient temp at back of fridge gets to or exceeds 50C. You can also move the thermostat controlling fan operation if it comes on all the time or not early enough. Closer to inlet of pipe to condenser is hotter and further along the fins away from inlet is cooler. Gives you a bit of flexibility instead of changing to a thermo of higher or lower setting. Good luck.
Last edited:
Thanks Boots in Action for the tip....I was considering where the best placement of the thermostat would be. I will fit an inline switch as well to turn off while the van is parked up too...
Cheers
Cheers
With a large fridge you may find the fan will be on all the time as the temp at the back will mostly be over 50c, not a sign of fault but thats what they need to run, I picked up 12v from the fridge van 12v supply and on some fitted a switch on the inner panel, moving the thermo to find the sweet spot is the way to go, I like having a switch for it as I turn it off when on the road .................... my thermo has died but I don't think I will bother changing it, I ended up with a 70 as the 50 just stayed on all the time I found.
my switch is on the front panel makes life easier..
my switch is on the front panel makes life easier..
@Drover, I too turn off the fans at back of fridge when travelling. No use sucking in (and expelling?) any dust or contaminated air from passing traffic. The movement of air across the side of van appears to keep things cool at back of fridge, while the internal fans move around the cold air inside..
I've set mine up with a plug in connector between the fan and the loom, so if I want to take the top vent out to clean it, I can just unplug the fan and it will stay attached to the vent and the rest of the loom will stay in the van. I was going to fit a switch and will likely do so going forward. At this stage being I have also put an inline fuse in the wiring I have the option of unplugging the fan or taking out the fuse so it won't operate while traveling...just means removing one of the vents for access to one or the other until I do put a switch in...