Electrical Dual Battery question
- Thread starter Capt. Gadget
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yeah, its called retail against cost. they both do the same thing, one is lcd and one is led. the display is very different but really - does that matter.
3 months till lift off, slowly ticking the boxes but still unfortunately as tight as a fish's backside.
I noticed today that the hotwire on the Pajero is half the diameter of the corresponding wire on the Jayco side.
I will have to rewire that with 6mm2 as I understand that is the thickest a 12 pin plug will take (I don't want to use Anderson Plugs).
Whilst I'm in there should I be running a second length of the 6mm2 down the car and van? One pair following the current route to the fridge and one pair to the CTEK D250s Dual? (I believe the Jayco factory wiring runs straight from the car to the fridge)
What size fuses will I need on the Pajero?
The CTEK d250S Dual was intended to also be the low voltage cut off but this second run of wires will negate that function. Will simply turning the fridge from DC to Gas when parked & connected disconnect the draw?
Thanks everybody
Scotty
I noticed today that the hotwire on the Pajero is half the diameter of the corresponding wire on the Jayco side.
I will have to rewire that with 6mm2 as I understand that is the thickest a 12 pin plug will take (I don't want to use Anderson Plugs).
Whilst I'm in there should I be running a second length of the 6mm2 down the car and van? One pair following the current route to the fridge and one pair to the CTEK D250s Dual? (I believe the Jayco factory wiring runs straight from the car to the fridge)
What size fuses will I need on the Pajero?
The CTEK d250S Dual was intended to also be the low voltage cut off but this second run of wires will negate that function. Will simply turning the fridge from DC to Gas when parked & connected disconnect the draw?
Thanks everybody
Scotty
Hi Scotty
I have found that my 12 pin plug on my ranger is wired to the pin that connects to Van with a circuit that cuts off when the ignition is turned off , for me this seems to be the best option as when I stop, the Battery is not being drained, Ive found no need to select the gas if only stopping for a short time as the fridge holds it temp pretty well once its cool.
I think the Expanda wiring splits somewhere down the line and shares between the fridge and the Setek charging unit. My d250s Dual in the van is only connected to Solar as I found it to be a really good solar regulator but I don't think it has a low voltage cut off as is really only a DC DC Charger
I have found that my 12 pin plug on my ranger is wired to the pin that connects to Van with a circuit that cuts off when the ignition is turned off , for me this seems to be the best option as when I stop, the Battery is not being drained, Ive found no need to select the gas if only stopping for a short time as the fridge holds it temp pretty well once its cool.
I think the Expanda wiring splits somewhere down the line and shares between the fridge and the Setek charging unit. My d250s Dual in the van is only connected to Solar as I found it to be a really good solar regulator but I don't think it has a low voltage cut off as is really only a DC DC Charger
Hi everyone. I've read through a lot of the forum about the dual battery setup but I'm still a little confused. Thanks to everyone for sharing their ideas and setup but I think I'm still missing why you have chosen the way you have. If anyone could help, I've got the following questions. We have a 150 prado and a 16.49-4 expanda.
I want to set the tug up with a dual battery but what is the best way? The frig in the panda is apparently connected to the 12pin plug, not the van battery, so, to run the frig while driving, I think I need to supply power to the 12pin plug in the car from the aux battery in the car. Preferably on the ignition switch or some sort of isolator to avoid draining that battery dry.
The next bit I don't know what to do about is, I wanted to run an Anderson plug to the tow bar as well to charge the van battery. Does this come from the auxiliary battery in the tug or from the charger in the tug? I was thinking of getting a redarc bcdc 25amp charger. Then, how does this connect to the battery in the van? Does it get wired into the dc external input of the setec or does it go directly to the battery itself? I also assume I have to run this extra wire along the van as well to either the setec or the battery as I don't know if there is a provision already in the vans cabling.
Reading about others using the ctek d250s dual throws another variable into the mix! Should I be running the Anderson plug on the van to one of these rather than the setec and what does this mean for the tugs redarc charger?
The van also has solar which jayco tell me is wired directly to the battery and not the setecs dc external input. Because the setec is sealed I can't even see it to see what is connected.
All said and done, I wanted a dual battery for the car to keep the engel in there for sports days and camping trips. I want to run the frig on 12v while travelling and also charge the van battery from the tug to keep it topped up when unpowered. The solar might do the trick but not if we're under trees or its cloudy.
I'd appreciate any help with explanations or wiring diagrams if anyone has time to help. Or if you know where I can find the answers the link would be great. Thanks!
I want to set the tug up with a dual battery but what is the best way? The frig in the panda is apparently connected to the 12pin plug, not the van battery, so, to run the frig while driving, I think I need to supply power to the 12pin plug in the car from the aux battery in the car. Preferably on the ignition switch or some sort of isolator to avoid draining that battery dry.
The next bit I don't know what to do about is, I wanted to run an Anderson plug to the tow bar as well to charge the van battery. Does this come from the auxiliary battery in the tug or from the charger in the tug? I was thinking of getting a redarc bcdc 25amp charger. Then, how does this connect to the battery in the van? Does it get wired into the dc external input of the setec or does it go directly to the battery itself? I also assume I have to run this extra wire along the van as well to either the setec or the battery as I don't know if there is a provision already in the vans cabling.
Reading about others using the ctek d250s dual throws another variable into the mix! Should I be running the Anderson plug on the van to one of these rather than the setec and what does this mean for the tugs redarc charger?
The van also has solar which jayco tell me is wired directly to the battery and not the setecs dc external input. Because the setec is sealed I can't even see it to see what is connected.
All said and done, I wanted a dual battery for the car to keep the engel in there for sports days and camping trips. I want to run the frig on 12v while travelling and also charge the van battery from the tug to keep it topped up when unpowered. The solar might do the trick but not if we're under trees or its cloudy.
I'd appreciate any help with explanations or wiring diagrams if anyone has time to help. Or if you know where I can find the answers the link would be great. Thanks!
Search setec, then go into setec , bit there that may help, you can get to the setec at the back to see plug ins etc.
i had the prado 150 kakado last year before trading up. if you run dual batteries - then you can connect all the cables from the aux battery to the charge wire and fridge wire of the van. as when the 150 is not running the main battery should be disconnected from the aux battery, so even if the aux battery is run flat with the caravan battery - the car will still start. solar if on the roof will help the battery during the day for extra charge and capacity. remember the fridge will take around 35 amps (max) to run. but this will be limited by your cable size in your prado. dc power on the fridge is not controlled by the temp setting on the fridge at all, and is always on, so having a smaller cable on the fridge cable in the prado will help to save the battery. so 4mm for the fridge cable and at least 8 guage cable for the main caravan charge cable. remember to make sure the earth is also at least 8 guage cable. the prado 150 is a good tow rig. i had the petty version as it had much more power than the smaller deisel.
Barra
In theory the Car should already be wired so The Fridge charges from one of the larger 5 pins (in the 12 pin plug) already whilst the car is running. Similarly the van battery charges from one of the smaller 7 pins.
In theory the Car should already be wired so The Fridge charges from one of the larger 5 pins (in the 12 pin plug) already whilst the car is running. Similarly the van battery charges from one of the smaller 7 pins.
@Griffo, when the tow bar was fitted they put in a 12pin plug but only wired up the trailer connections. There is no other power to the plug at this stage. What I'm thinking then is if I get a dual battery put in the car, I'll just bring 2 power lines down from the aux battery to the 12pin plug. Maybe the smaller pin like you suggest to charge the battery in the van is connected to the setec?
Originally I had a 7 pin plug and the dealer forgot to tell me to get a 12 pin fitted so arrived to collect and wrong plug. THe Jayco dealer changed it to a 12 pin which initially ran everything (including the trickle charge) except the fridge. Took it to an auto elec and they ran 2 heavy wires one for the fridge and the second for the breakaway brakes should I ever get a heavier van.
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Hi all,
Just got a quick question regarding wiring two Aux batteries up to one isolator. I've got a 100A Projector isolator that is connected with 6mm wire to the 12 pin van plug that then splits to the van Fridge and Van Setec. I'm wanting to add an Anderson Plug to the rear of the car to charge a 100Ah battery box I've put together.
I'm wondering if I can simply tap into the van power line for the Anderson plug. I'd put a fuse in I think to separate the batteries if necessary. Most diagrams I've seen would have the van supply connected to the Aux battery, but given the Aux battery in this case is removable, I didn't want to do that. Something like :
Just got a quick question regarding wiring two Aux batteries up to one isolator. I've got a 100A Projector isolator that is connected with 6mm wire to the 12 pin van plug that then splits to the van Fridge and Van Setec. I'm wanting to add an Anderson Plug to the rear of the car to charge a 100Ah battery box I've put together.
I'm wondering if I can simply tap into the van power line for the Anderson plug. I'd put a fuse in I think to separate the batteries if necessary. Most diagrams I've seen would have the van supply connected to the Aux battery, but given the Aux battery in this case is removable, I didn't want to do that. Something like :
your problem is the fuses and cables. 6mm cable is not rated anywhere near 100 or 50 amps. you would be lucky to push 10 amps through the cable for any given distance. i would be using at least 8 guage cable from jaycar for both negative and positive. that will allow 50+ amps. 4 gauge cable if you wanted to push 100 amps or more. i would be using 50 amp breakers and fuses thoughout with 8 gauge cable running from the front to the back to run to the anderson plugs.
your idea of the second battery being removable with seperate anderson plugs and fuses is fine. just upgrade all the cables. you want the weak link to be the fuse - not the cable.
Yeah, thought as much. The only problem with that is I'd never get that 8 gauge cable into a 12 pin trailer plug. So then I'd be running more Anderson plugs and new cable through the van which will get a bit costly and time consuming. It's not ideal I know, but so far the van battery has been charging fine though the 6mm cable and 12 pin plug. I could also use a CTEK 250 Dual or BCDC in the ute I guess to charge the aux battery...
you can run the cable down to the plug and then run the last 5 or so inches into 6mm or cable. as the cable would be very short - that would be ok.
Hi All, I have a question hopefully one of you gurus can help with. I have just purchased a 200w panel and a d250s dual that I hope to find time to install this weekend.
My car is wired up with 2 hot wires on relays, one for the fridge and one for the battery feed, I had them wired in to 8 and 9 pins (2 of the lager 5) and when I got my van switched in the plug 2 to 8 so it was not using the reverse signal pin. Anyway, when testing the other night, I disconnected the battery but when plugged into the car I had full 12v power in the van so I am assuming that jayco has wired up my battery feed to the aux in the setec so my question is when installing my d250 do I disconnect the aux from the setec and connect that to the d250 or do I leave it running through the setec? Also with this setup is it ok when on 240 to leave the battery switch on so it is getting charged from the setec as well as the solar through the d250 or is that not advised?
My car is wired up with 2 hot wires on relays, one for the fridge and one for the battery feed, I had them wired in to 8 and 9 pins (2 of the lager 5) and when I got my van switched in the plug 2 to 8 so it was not using the reverse signal pin. Anyway, when testing the other night, I disconnected the battery but when plugged into the car I had full 12v power in the van so I am assuming that jayco has wired up my battery feed to the aux in the setec so my question is when installing my d250 do I disconnect the aux from the setec and connect that to the d250 or do I leave it running through the setec? Also with this setup is it ok when on 240 to leave the battery switch on so it is getting charged from the setec as well as the solar through the d250 or is that not advised?
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Not too sure if it's 'right' but I removed the Aux Bat +ve from the Setec which is the +ve line from the trailer plug and connected that to the Alt in port on the Ctek 250S, the ran a new +ve and -ve from the Ctek to the Battery direct. The Battery will still be connected to the Setec via the Bat +ve and -ve terminals. That way the Setec will still distribute power and charge the battery through 240v, and the Ctek 250 will only take over the 12V charging.
I guess if the van is plugged in and the Setec is charging through 240v and your car is connected (and running), both sources would be trying to charge the battery. That said it is rare to be in that configuration and both chargers would most likely be in 'float' mode given the voltage would be up around 14.5V. I'm no expert but I thought that should be OK!
I guess if the van is plugged in and the Setec is charging through 240v and your car is connected (and running), both sources would be trying to charge the battery. That said it is rare to be in that configuration and both chargers would most likely be in 'float' mode given the voltage would be up around 14.5V. I'm no expert but I thought that should be OK!
That was a good move, I have seen lots of melted smaller pins over the years. I did the same with mine.
That is the most likely hookup if it was done to jayco's normal. It could still be connected direct to the battery though. If you have a test light you can test the pins on the van trailer plug to see if any are live when not plugged in to the car. the setec will block power back to the plug but if connected directly to the battery you will see power at one of the pins. Make sure your van battery and battery switch are connected and turned on for the test. (no 240v at the setec though)
Here are a few of your options......
This is how your hookup will look if you leave it hooked up through the setec. It will work fine but you will get a small voltage drop through the blocking diode inside the setec. The setec will block power returning to your vehicle (your car relay will already do this as will the ctek) and ensure there are no live pins at the van trailer plug.
This is the setup for connecting directly to the battery. this will bypass the setec diode and give maximum available charge to the battery. You will no longer have the blocking effect of the setec but the d250s and relays will take care of that so this would be a good choice in your circumstances.
Another way would be to combine your two wires to maximise the power available to the ctek unit. I would only consider this if you don't have a smart alternator fitted to your vehicle though as the fridge draw might cause enough voltage drop to disconnect the ds250.
If it was my van i would go directly to the battery (the second drawing). You must still be aware of the limitations of your wiring. as they are going through the trailer plug they are probably only 6mm so will be hard pressed to supply enough power for the ctek to run at it's maximum before you get caught out by voltage drop. Under most circumstances this will not be a problem and you will still have the solar to fall back on. If you have a smart alternator and find you are getting less than 13.1v to the ctek you may need to do cteks rather kludgy bypass as shown bellow.
Yes it will be fine to leave it all hooked up. The only thing you must ensure is that your charge rate does not exceed 14.8v as this is the safe limit for the setec unit. the d250 will not exceed that.
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Man I love this forum, awesome info, thank you so much for taking the time to help me with this.
I will go with option 2, the d250 is mainly as a solar controller so what ever the car puts in will be fine. I always charge the van up before a trip anyway so it will only be topping up from the car after stops when the fridge runs off the van battery.
I have already tested that there is nothing feeding back to the plug so I am sure it is not connected directly to the battery.
I will let you know how it all goes.
I will go with option 2, the d250 is mainly as a solar controller so what ever the car puts in will be fine. I always charge the van up before a trip anyway so it will only be topping up from the car after stops when the fridge runs off the van battery.
I have already tested that there is nothing feeding back to the plug so I am sure it is not connected directly to the battery.
I will let you know how it all goes.
Ryan one other thing to be aware of is you will have 2 6mm ? positive wires running through your trailer plug and only one 6mm earth wire. So if you seem to be getting too much voltage drop you may need to beef up your earth wiring. the weakest link will always draw the whole system down to its level. As you have said you will be mainly relying on the solar etc so it probably wont be an issue, but keep it in mind.