Just Browsing Converter wiring

Misstonz

New Member
Apr 15, 2018
11
1
3
Gold Coast
#1
Hi all...new to this forum but have recently owned and renovated a 85 Dove and now have a 2010 Hawk. Not sure if i have the right forum tbh....
I have the converter showing a number of fuses for lights, pump, etc however do not have an electric pump.
Though i can install on a new circuit, i wondered where does the wiring go once it is inside the side panel under the dinnette seat?
Would like to tap into the power already there if i can
Thx
T
 

Drover

Well-Known Member
Nov 7, 2013
7,361
13,511
113
Cooloola Coast, QLD
www.expandasdownunder.com
#2
Welcome and good question, in fact always good questions on here...............now I assume you mean the box which provides 12v power to your rig, possibly a Setek, just post some pics of it so we can ID it for you, pics are always a good idea as they will answer many questions we may ask.

If you go to www.caravansplus.com.au you should find a manual for your unit and it will help you out with whats what as well.
 

Misstonz

New Member
Apr 15, 2018
11
1
3
Gold Coast
#3
thx Drover... i will try that site for a manual
I have included a pic of the cabling escaping into the side panel - where from there i do not know.
the fuses I am not sure about - i assumed the order of fuse would match the order of cabling, however the lights stay on when i pull the light fuses out (off 240V) and one of the others cuts the lights out.
Also, i noted a warning on the fuse box door that mentions Converter charging only suitable for LEAD ACID batteries - who uses these in vans these days???
 

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mikerezny

Well-Known Member
Sep 11, 2016
789
1,408
93
65
Mount Waverley, VIC
#5
Hi @Misstonz,
there are three models of Setec, each with a separate manual. You have a MK II Setec, so ensure you download the correct manual. Beware though that the updated manuals do suffer from not being updated correctly and contain errors.
You can download the correct manual from the Setec site:
http://www.setec.com.au/pdf/ST-II-User-Manual.pdf

The nice pretty label showing what the fuses do is probably wrong. It is just a generic factory label and not necessarily specific for your van. It is worth spending some time to sort out once and for all what each of the fuses is for and making up a new label.

I would suggest pulling all 5 fuses out on the left.
Then have a look at the wiring at the top of the unit and you should be able to determine which fuses have been connected.
Then insert one (connected) fuse at a time and see what is powered up. There probably isn't much: interior lights, exterior light, electronic ignition for the stove, interior and exterior 12V sockets.

You haven't mentioned what you want to hook up. The power draw of what you want to connect may determine how you may want to proceed.
If the power draw will be minimal (less than 5A) then tapping into the most convenient circuit may be the way to go. If the power draw is less than 10A you may be well advised to feed it from a spare fuse if one is available. For higher current draw you would be better to run a suitably sized cable directly to the battery terminals (assuming you have a battery) and wire in an inline fuse close to the +Ve battery terminal.

Note that the maximum rated output from your Setec charger / power supply is 20A.

cheers
Mike
 

Misstonz

New Member
Apr 15, 2018
11
1
3
Gold Coast
#6
Great help, thanks guys i will get that manual
I am just looking to hook up a pump for the kitchen tap install.
I found the fuse and cable to connect into and it leads to the side wall. I really wanted to find out where that cable goes after it is inside the wall - to connect to the end of it...
Am i right to suggest that in storage it is best to keep the caravan connected to mains power for keeping the battery in best shape with the setec?
Thx
tony
 
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Drover

Well-Known Member
Nov 7, 2013
7,361
13,511
113
Cooloola Coast, QLD
www.expandasdownunder.com
#7
Yep, plug it in, make sure battery is turned on and she'll be apples, just make sure everything is turned off and the fridge is cleaned out with the door ajar...............someone forgot to empty fridge and 3 months later had to buy a new fridge as the stink was permanent.....not me but an entertaining thread.
 

Boots in Action

Well-Known Member
Mar 13, 2017
650
631
93
Ferny Grove, Queensland
#8
Great help, thanks guys i will get that manual
I am just looking to hook up a pump for the kitchen tap install.
I found the fuse and cable to connect into and it leads to the side wall. I really wanted to find out where that cable goes after it is inside the wall - to connect to the end of it...
Am i right to suggest that in storage it is best to keep the caravan connected to mains power for keeping the battery in best shape with the setec?
Thx
tony
Hello @Misstonz and welcome to the forum. I have a 2013 penguin and have connected up an electric pump after getting sick and tired of trying to pump out water. I found it a simple hook up. @mikerezny has already given you most of the info, but I can add a little more.
When you remove the lid over the top of the Setec and look down onto the wiring, you should see two rows of terminals - one marked +ve and the other -ve. and they are all numbered 1, 2, 3, etc. These correspond to the fuses numbers in the multi fuse box. You will have to check what each fuse/line is connected to what circuit so you know what each fuse protects as @Drover and @mikerezny said. Select the next numbered +ve and -ve that is available (must be the same number!) connect and use insulated slide on female connectors and run this to your electric pump connections. DISCONNECT BATTERY BEFORE DOING THIS!!
My electric pump draws only 3 amps, so I replaced the standard 10A with a 5A for better safety. My pump has a pressure switch cutoff, so when tap is on, pump is energised and water flows. When tap is off, water pressure closes switch automatically and pump stops, so no need for a switch in circuit. It does have its own switch on side of pump which I leave on. I have had no problems with it for the last 2 years and it is a great thing to have . No need to run separate line from battery as there are 6 (mine has 8) fuse outlets in box and hopefully all are not used. The individual 8 of them are normally fused with 10A fuses, and the whole lot of them are protected by a 20A fuse. Hope this helps. I can send a picture of connections if necessary.just noticed that a lot of your connections are already used. If one is not available, you will have to use a "piggy back" connector onto one of the existing terminals - just make sure that it is a low load circuit eg lights, radio etc.
 
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Boots in Action

Well-Known Member
Mar 13, 2017
650
631
93
Ferny Grove, Queensland
#11
Thanks mate....thats what i am kinda hoping for just not found yet. I see the wiring goes from the setec tonthe side panel bilut not sure where from there...like to find the end to connect the pump to
@Misstonz , if it was originally there, the wires would end up somewhere under the sink near the water inlet line comes into the van. Have a look there because that is where I have mine.
 

Boots in Action

Well-Known Member
Mar 13, 2017
650
631
93
Ferny Grove, Queensland
#14
While your at it check all the connectors, the work experience Year 7's that built your van can get a bit clumsy when using the crimper or pliers if no crimper........in other words some really poor work done on the connections.
Yeah @Drover , very good advice. Was doing some upgrade of wiring on my tug as voltage to van seemed to be low (and not working at times???) and found the 6mm cable from VSR to rear of tug was not crimped properly - just came away in my hand without any resistance!! I hate crimped connectors, they alway seem suspect to me. Problem now solved - properly soldered into connector, so should be zero resistance and no chance of it falling out or becoming loose.
 

Misstonz

New Member
Apr 15, 2018
11
1
3
Gold Coast
#15
Thanks for your help guys. I ended up installing four switches to cover interior lights, water pump, fridge cooling fan and fridge switch externally to the converter - happy with result.
 

geedub

New Member
Aug 23, 2017
25
21
3
54
Sydney
#17
Yeah @Drover , very good advice. Was doing some upgrade of wiring on my tug as voltage to van seemed to be low (and not working at times???) and found the 6mm cable from VSR to rear of tug was not crimped properly - just came away in my hand without any resistance!! I hate crimped connectors, they alway seem suspect to me. Problem now solved - properly soldered into connector, so should be zero resistance and no chance of it falling out or becoming loose.
Crimp connections when done correctly are infinitely better than soldered especially in an environment subject to vibration. When a crimp connection is formed the pressure applied welds the copper of the crimp and wire together giving a low resistance join that is unaffected by heat. The crimper will also crimp the insulation of the cable supplying strain relief to the connection.
Solder has a low melting point and is rigid, if the solder join isn't perfect there will be resistance which can cause heat resulting in the solder changing state. The rigidity can cause fracturing due to cable movement.
In a previous life I was an RAAF electronics technician and my training covered both mechanical connections and high reliability hand soldering. Aircraft do not use soldered connections and if you look at motor vehicles all connections are mechanical as well.
Crimps are given a bad rap as people use inappropriate crimps with incorrect tools.
The correct tools are relatively expensive but once obtained give great results.
 
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Boots in Action

Well-Known Member
Mar 13, 2017
650
631
93
Ferny Grove, Queensland
#18
Crimp connections when done correctly are infinitely better than soldered especially in an environment subject to vibration. When a crimp connection is formed the pressure applied welds the copper of the crimp and wire together giving a low resistance join that is unaffected by heat. The crimper will also crimp the insulation of the cable supplying strain relief to the connection.
Solder has a low melting point and is rigid, if the solder join isn't perfect there will be resistance which can cause heat resulting in the solder changing state. The rigidity can cause fracturing due to cable movement.
In a previous life I was an RAAF electronics technician and my training covered both mechanical connections and high reliability hand soldering. Aircraft do not use soldered connections and if you look at motor vehicles all connections are mechanical as well.
Crimps are given a bad wrap as people use inappropriate crimps with incorrect tools.
The correct tools are relatively expensive but once obtained give great results.
Thanks for the real story @geedub. I was also aware that what you said was true. Where possible, I crimp (not using tool) and solder to give both a mechanical and electrical connection. The only downside is that the wire does become brittle and less flexible where the solder ends. I try to overcome this by using shrink tubing to give some strength on the connection and also provide good insulation too. And the fact that if the solder joint is poor and a high resistance, then heat build up can cause the remaining solder to "let go" and break the connection altogether. As you said, done correctly and with the right (and expensive) tooling, there should be no problems and you being an electronics engineer in the Forces would fully understand the importance of doing it properly. Unfortunately, there are a lot of others out there not so trained or experienced. Hence my lack of confidence in all those crimp connections I have come across. Cheers.
 

Misstonz

New Member
Apr 15, 2018
11
1
3
Gold Coast
#19
Thanks @boots, i have used a self resetting relay and fuses to be sure.
Interesting read in soldering tho. I have soldered the anderson connections i installed for my solar connectors at each end if the van. I will keep an eye on them.
@geedub Any idea what resistance number i should be seeing for a good connection?
 

achjimmy

Well-Known Member
Jan 24, 2011
3,004
3,370
113
#20
Crimp connections when done correctly are infinitely better than soldered especially in an environment subject to vibration. When a crimp connection is formed the pressure applied welds the copper of the crimp and wire together giving a low resistance join that is unaffected by heat. The crimper will also crimp the insulation of the cable supplying strain relief to the connection.
Solder has a low melting point and is rigid, if the solder join isn't perfect there will be resistance which can cause heat resulting in the solder changing state. The rigidity can cause fracturing due to cable movement.
In a previous life I was an RAAF electronics technician and my training covered both mechanical connections and high reliability hand soldering. Aircraft do not use soldered connections and if you look at motor vehicles all connections are mechanical as well.
Crimps are given a bad wrap as people use inappropriate crimps with incorrect tools.
The correct tools are relatively expensive but once obtained give great results.

This advise should be a sticky , 100% right.

Besides needing quality pliers (can be obtained very reasonably now days) I only buy Narva connectors with the translucent insulation , I’ve found those cheap arse ones with hard plastic suss
 
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