Electrical 12v Fridge

1DayIll

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Apr 26, 2016
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OK all of you wise ones. My son has a 12V fridge that works well when the car is running. Has a second battery.
When the car is stopped the fridge warms up, even with a solar panel connected.

Any ideas on how we can get around this or what might be causing it?
 

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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Whats the details on the fridge @1DayIll ???
I assume the fridge is drawing power from the aux battery and the aux is charged from the vehicle, when stopped the fridge should continue to draw from the aux so the question, what is the charging system from the vehicle ? is it enough to provide charge to the battery and power to the fridge ??? If the fridge is taking more than the vehicle is providing, the aux battery will be drawn down, when stopped the aux battery will not be charged and plugging in solar may not be enough to charge battery and run fridge.......... I would start off getting a load test done on the battery to make sure its okay, a test will show, age of battery means nothing...................... If using Cig sockets get rid of them and use Anderson's............ Aux battery should be getting charged by something like a Ctek 250DS not a simple relay unit from the old days, it will sort out the charge from alternator and cover a solar panel....

If its sitting in an enclosed vehicle like in a ute canopy on a hot day it will heat up and demand a lot of power, inside can get up to over 40 deg, my old engel in Ute would run non stop all day until I ventilated the shed.

I had a small heat exchange fridge to keep my lunch cool in my truck, it only held maybe a 6 pack at best, brilliant when engine running but it would suck the daylights from the batteries if I stopped for a few hours far quicker than a 3 way van fridge and I had 4 batteries in the rack............ so fridge type is important.... Jumper leads off my pan fridge motor to truck batteries would get me going.... :biggrin1: ... so Boss never knew.
 

1DayIll

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Apr 26, 2016
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South Morang, Victoria
Whats the details on the fridge @1DayIll ???
I assume the fridge is drawing power from the aux battery and the aux is charged from the vehicle, when stopped the fridge should continue to draw from the aux so the question, what is the charging system from the vehicle ? is it enough to provide charge to the battery and power to the fridge ??? If the fridge is taking more than the vehicle is providing, the aux battery will be drawn down, when stopped the aux battery will not be charged and plugging in solar may not be enough to charge battery and run fridge.......... I would start off getting a load test done on the battery to make sure its okay, a test will show, age of battery means nothing...................... If using Cig sockets get rid of them and use Anderson's............ Aux battery should be getting charged by something like a Ctek 250DS not a simple relay unit from the old days, it will sort out the charge from alternator and cover a solar panel....

If its sitting in an enclosed vehicle like in a ute canopy on a hot day it will heat up and demand a lot of power, inside can get up to over 40 deg, my old engel in Ute would run non stop all day until I ventilated the shed.

I had a small heat exchange fridge to keep my lunch cool in my truck, it only held maybe a 6 pack at best, brilliant when engine running but it would suck the daylights from the batteries if I stopped for a few hours far quicker than a 3 way van fridge and I had 4 batteries in the rack............ so fridge type is important.... Jumper leads off my pan fridge motor to truck batteries would get me going.... :biggrin1: ... so Boss never knew.
I will get the details but it is a Kings Draw fridge and yes it is in a closed vehicle. I have suggested he leaves some windows open a bit for a breeze but not sure if he does. I have replaced the cigarette lighter with an Anderson plug as it kept turning off. At least not doing that now,
I am also not confident about the wire the previous owner put in so might try a new one and see what happens as well. for $30, it is worth a try.
Thanks for getting back to me.
 

Drover

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Give the battery good look at, its ringing my bells, a draw fridge does need good ventilation, not just the end clear but room for some sort of flow, so hot air goes up and air comes from below just having a few inches clear at the back won't cut it and while the Kings has a low power draw once things get Hot inside a vehicle they go full bore so if the battery is on its own they will get drawn down in very quick time.... I wouldn't be runniing a fridge with an aux under 110ah if its in a closed vehicle and no charge, and if solar you would want over 120w in panels, specs say one thing but when in a hot vehicle which gets to well over 40c you have a fight on hand.... my Engel I added a small CPU fan to it to create more air flow and a fan to ventilate the back of the vehicle, as my battery and roof panel just couldn't handle the 40c plus temps, things improved but it was still not great I needed about 140w panel.... No matter what the specs say everything in the fridge/AC world gets difficult when temps get over the magic 34c ......... car/house/van............
My go to for cable when I don't want any drag is 8 B&S ....... if its too small then you have problems.

I would like one of those draw fridges actually....
 
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1DayIll

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Apr 26, 2016
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South Morang, Victoria
Give the battery good look at, its ringing my bells, a draw fridge does need good ventilation, not just the end clear but room for some sort of flow, so hot air goes up and air comes from below just having a few inches clear at the back won't cut it and while the Kings has a low power draw once things get Hot inside a vehicle they go full bore so if the battery is on its own they will get drawn down in very quick time.... I wouldn't be runniing a fridge with an aux under 110ah if its in a closed vehicle and no charge, and if solar you would want over 120w in panels, specs say one thing but when in a hot vehicle which gets to well over 40c you have a fight on hand.... my Engel I added a small CPU fan to it to create more air flow and a fan to ventilate the back of the vehicle, as my battery and roof panel just couldn't handle the 40c plus temps, things improved but it was still not great I needed about 140w panel.... No matter what the specs say everything in the fridge/AC world gets difficult when temps get over the magic 34c ......... car/house/van............
My go to for cable when I don't want any drag is 8 B&S ....... if its too small then you have problems.

I would like one of those draw fridges actually....
Thanks Drover. Yeh, I am not sure the battery is right but do agree with the temperature.
He has a 300 w panel but not sure if he is getting the full draw out of it but it does show as charging the battery.
The battery does say it is ok but we don't really know. ( This is the built-in dot you read) I would like to change it and see but of course, there is an expense to that and not just a case of swapping them over.
The drawer itself if great and a really good option. It is a good size and would be something I would also consider buying.
 
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Drover

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Why I suspect the battery, if it is wired up correctly, car to DC/DC charger then to aux battery then to fridge (assuming the solar is connected to DC/DC unit) if the fridge works well when engine runnning but not when engine shut down then it points to a dud battery, alternator supplies enough current to run fridge and charge battery where as the solar with less juice , its just getting absorbed by the battery I'd guess, meter will show ........................ .... Batteries can show a good charge but when given some work its all show and no depth to the charge...... running over the whole system with a meter in the different set ups should show something before getting to the pull down side of things....... Make sure all the earths are correct, grounding is often over looked, some systems do need seperate earth connections...... Have had a Redarc DC/DC unit cause drama, disconnected it all, had a coffee came back and hooked up, working away happily again.....
 

1DayIll

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Apr 26, 2016
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South Morang, Victoria
Why I suspect the battery, if it is wired up correctly, car to DC/DC charger then to aux battery then to fridge (assuming the solar is connected to DC/DC unit) if the fridge works well when engine runnning but not when engine shut down then it points to a dud battery, alternator supplies enough current to run fridge and charge battery where as the solar with less juice , its just getting absorbed by the battery I'd guess, meter will show ........................ .... Batteries can show a good charge but when given some work its all show and no depth to the charge...... running over the whole system with a meter in the different set ups should show something before getting to the pull down side of things....... Make sure all the earths are correct, grounding is often over looked, some systems do need seperate earth connections...... Have had a Redarc DC/DC unit cause drama, disconnected it all, had a coffee came back and hooked up, working away happily again.....
Thanks, This is very helpful
 

Drover

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Nov 7, 2013
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If you can note the details of the set up, the variations can be numerous otherwise just stabbing in the dark...... The solar should hook up to DC/DC unit with no regulator inline, if DC/DC unit doesn't have solar connector then the solar should have a reg and be hooked direct to battery, the DC/DC should run output direct to battery and the fridge should be as well....
 
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