It would appear that the only 12v acc in the van are lights and radio l do have a 12v/240v tv and a portable fridge witch I would like to run on 12v when required so given that the cetek and battery are on the opposite side to the tv what would you suggest as the best fix not having any 12v outlet in the van
16' Series 12v accessories
- Thread starter coys 53
- Start date
Hi @coys 53 , although I only have a small 2013 Penguin, I have been able to have lots of 12 volt outlets in my van. I have a double 12 volt outlet on the outside of the van alongside the exterior light (just a short wire needed between the two and no need to go into wall!) and uses the same fuse. Other 12 volt outlets include one for bedlights (LED strip lighting) also separately fused and 12 volt water pump to replace hand pump. Another separate line runs to other end of van with 12 volt volt meter, 12 volt socket (for television) and also twin USB outlets. The last three are in a combo unit I bought on Ebay for around $14.00. It does sometimes require you to crawl around inside cupboards and drill a few holes to run wires through, but all possible. ALL lines are separate;y connected to fuse outlet box for safety. If you are not able to run wires internally, you will have to run wire through floor and underneath van and come up from underneath on other side and into the space between walls. Any exterior cable MUST be suitably protected from road hazards. If you are not confident yourself, get someone who is and enjoy the results. Worth the effort. I can send pictures if you wish. Cheers.
@coys 53 , here are the photos of my set up in enabling extra 12 volt outlets to be available in my Penguin. Whilst the photos will show you what can be done, the connections to the take off point/s (photo 4) may be different. My van is fitted with a Setec power distribution system ST- Series III which can supply up to 20 amps continuously (total from Power unit and battery). If you have the same, it is straight forward. If you have the more sophisticated Drifter panel, it will be slightly different, but still from the fuse distribution point. The first picture is of the double 12 volt outlet on the exterior of van. A very small cutout is made between both original light and new 12 volt outlet to enable a small wire to connect both from the same 12 volt source. A 10A fuse at the distribution point protects this circuit. Lighting, phone, and Ipad charging can be done from here and the 12 volt television too. Current for my 19" television is only approx 3A so no worries on overloading this circuit. The second photo shows an extra fitting at the other end of van for volt meter/s, 12 volt socket and 4 X USB outlets. This line is also connected to the interior lights and bedside LED strip. Power for the television can also be connected here if required. 10A fuse protected. The third picture shows the fuse connection points for all circuits. You can probably see the different fuse colours for different circuits. The values are also set out for each circuit on the paper below. The fuses range from 3A for fridge fans, 5A for water pump and the rest are 10A, although the TOTAL outlet power is limited by a 20A fuse (far right).
The last and most important picture is an overhead shot of the Setec distribution lines. Be careful here!! Make sure NO 240V power is connected and that the 12 volt battery is switched OFF or better still, disconnected. You will note that there is a series of connectors (1 to 8) for both POS and NEG with the SAME number. The circuit between the two same numbers if connected to a load is the CIRCUIT number in the fuse box. Some of these male spade connectors may already have circuits connected on them, so try to use any spare ones. If insufficient, you can always "piggy back" another connection onto that circuit if only carrying a light load. Use insulated female spade connectors on all these connections. If you have a Drifter panel or something different, let me know and I am sure I (or others on this forum) will provide all the info you need. Good luck with the wiring and connections.
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Bit late, but my advise would be to use an Anderson Plug instead of a cig plug for your fridge. I have personally melted two 12v plugs assuming from when they get slightly loose. Cut the fridge lead and put one in the middle.
Hi @CarlDry , that would be the ultimate connection, but mainly for use when moving. From what I remember, most compressor fridges had different plugs to the normal 12 volt cig lighter. I think they had stronger expanding clips for the neg return and a wider, thicker centre pin for the pos connection. But even so, I agree they can become loose and cause problems even if only carrying 3 to 4A max at times. Fitting an Anderson plug on fridge lead is the easy part, finding a suitable place to install the other part for securing the Anderson plug could be a problem for some. Good to hear of your input.
Lots of sexy Anderson plug mounts available these days.
HAving both a Waeco (Cig Plug) and an Engel (Merit Plug) making both the same was beneficial in my case. Mine burnt out while stationary. Reliability being my main concern.
HAving both a Waeco (Cig Plug) and an Engel (Merit Plug) making both the same was beneficial in my case. Mine burnt out while stationary. Reliability being my main concern.
Well you seem to have that problem well and truly covered now @CarlDry with BOTH fridges on Anderson plugs. Some interesting design types there to cover most applications too. Cheers
@Drover , you are like the Engel. Getting older every day but still going strong!!! And performing well??
Yep just takes a lot to get going .............. Engel is in semi retirement now in shed, too hard to fit in Jeep.